From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Fri Nov 7 12:47:03 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 14:47:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Mg-t] Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina Message-ID: <22002985.1226087224116.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> FYI - Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina Rick Feibusch Venice, CA -----Forwarded Message----- Subject: Trailer For Sale Hi Rick, I want to get rid of my flat bed trailer that I had custom built for transporting my MG T-series cars and the Triumph TR6 Has a power winch and front shileld to protect the cars from stones etc. Excellent condition throughout. Needs nothing. Located on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina I have moved and have limited space. The trailer has always been kept under cover. $2,500 Geoff Wheatley Phone:843-341-6155 MDGIGEOFFREY at AOL.COM From tr6 at pipeline.com Fri Nov 7 15:13:13 2008 From: tr6 at pipeline.com (Ronald Olds) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 17:13:13 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] [Mgs] Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina In-Reply-To: <22002985.1226087224116.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: I wish you would have posted this last week. I was in the area with my vehicle and could have brought it home with me. It sounds like just what I was looking for. Ron Olds -----Original Message----- From: mgs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mgs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 2:47 PM To: morris at autox.team.net; riley at autox.team.net Cc: MDGIGEOFFREY at AOL.COM; mgs at autox.team.net; mg-t at autox.team.net Subject: [Mgs] Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina FYI - Trailer for sale - located in South Carolina Rick Feibusch Venice, CA -----Forwarded Message----- Subject: Trailer For Sale Hi Rick, I want to get rid of my flat bed trailer that I had custom built for transporting my MG T-series cars and the Triumph TR6 Has a power winch and front shileld to protect the cars from stones etc. Excellent condition throughout. Needs nothing. Located on Hilton Head Island in South Carolina I have moved and have limited space. The trailer has always been kept under cover. $2,500 Geoff Wheatley Phone:843-341-6155 MDGIGEOFFREY at AOL.COM You are subscribed as tr6 at pipeline.com Mgs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs http://www.team.net/archive From nels at flightsim.com Sun Nov 9 07:26:33 2008 From: nels at flightsim.com (Nels Anderson) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 09:26:33 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Stabilizer Link Repair Message-ID: <4916F319.3000008@flightsim.com> For the second time since I've owned my TD the bracket that holds the engine stabilizer link assembly to the front of the engine block has broken. In an ideal world this would be an easy repair, since all it requires is removing 4 nuts, replacing the broken bracket with a new one, and re-installing the 4 nuts. Unfortunately, one of the nuts is behind the water pump pulley and is virtually inaccessible. The last time I did this repair I spent two weeks trying to get the nut back on until finally a younger friend with smaller and more nimble hands was able to get it started. After that experience I'm dreading doing the repair again. I was wondering if anyone had any tricks that would make this easier? I'm kind of curious about the link itself. Other engines I'm familiar with don't seem to have anything like this, so why do our TD engines have it? For reference, the link is part 1 in this diagram; the bracket that broke is part 5: http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32714 --Nels Anderson 1953 MGTD From lawrie at britcars.com Sun Nov 9 08:13:40 2008 From: lawrie at britcars.com (=?iso-8859-1?Q?lawrie?=) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 07:13:40 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] =?iso-8859-1?q?Stabilizer_Link_Repair?= Message-ID: <20081109151340.8101.qmail@s417.sureserver.com> Nels, The best way to get that nut behind the water pump pulley started on its thread is to hold it with a long pair of needle-nose pliers and screw the threaded rod into it. Then you can assemble the more accessible pieces to the rod with no difficulty. The reason these engines have a stabilizer is because the mounts are so low and so close to the center of the engine's torque axis. Other engines have their mounts more to the side, higher and further away from the crankshaft. As to why your stabilizer bracket broke - twice - I wonder if you are tensioning the rod correctly? The idea is that the rod should hold the engine in a relaxed, upright position, rather than pulling or pushing it to one side. The other important things are that the engine mount and the gearbox mounts should be in good condition. If they are old and oil-soaked, they will permit excessive engine movement which puts a strain on the engine stabilizer bar. Cheers, Lawrie Alexander > -------Original Message------- > From: Nels Anderson > Subject: [Mg-t] Stabilizer Link Repair > Sent: 09 Nov '08 06:26 > > For the second time since I've owned my TD the bracket that holds the > engine stabilizer link assembly to the front of the engine block has > broken. In an ideal world this would be an easy repair, since all it > requires is removing 4 nuts, replacing the broken bracket with a new > one, and re-installing the 4 nuts. Unfortunately, one of the nuts is > behind the water pump pulley and is virtually inaccessible. The last > time I did this repair I spent two weeks trying to get the nut back on > until finally a younger friend with smaller and more nimble hands was > able to get it started. > > After that experience I'm dreading doing the repair again. I was > wondering if anyone had any tricks that would make this easier? > > I'm kind of curious about the link itself. Other engines I'm familiar > with don't seem to have anything like this, so why do our TD engines > have it? > > For reference, the link is part 1 in this diagram; the bracket that > broke is part 5: > > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32714 > > --Nels Anderson > 1953 MGTD > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From jfischer at supercollider.com Sun Nov 9 08:48:59 2008 From: jfischer at supercollider.com (James Fischer) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 10:48:59 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Stabilizer Link Repair In-Reply-To: <20081109151340.8101.qmail@s417.sureserver.com> References: <20081109151340.8101.qmail@s417.sureserver.com> Message-ID: <000301c94282$af556240$0501000a@j> I've had sucess using a small strip of duct tape to close the open side of an open-end wrench, and thereby hold the nut in place while bolts are being turned. The duct tape would take on a "U" shape, attaching to one jaw of the wrench, the face of the nut, and then the other side of the jaw of the nut. When done, pull away the wrench, and don't sweat the duct tape fragment, as it will become brittle and fall away from the engine later. If your wrenches are thicker than your nuts, go get a set of bicycle cone wrenches - they are very thin. From Gunnellj at athenet.net Sun Nov 9 11:03:45 2008 From: Gunnellj at athenet.net (Gunnellj at athenet.net) Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 18:03:45 GMT Subject: [Mg-t] Engine Parts Message-ID: <20081109130345.l53ade63vokg4oo4@webmail.athenet.net> Hello All We have extracted the engine from my '52 MG TD and are getting ready to completely rebuild it. I am looking for advice on the best source to purchase various parts from. John Gunnell Iola, WI From nels at flightsim.com Sun Nov 9 11:11:42 2008 From: nels at flightsim.com (Nels Anderson) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 2008 13:11:42 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Stabilizer Link Repair In-Reply-To: <000301c94282$af556240$0501000a@j> References: <20081109151340.8101.qmail@s417.sureserver.com> <000301c94282$af556240$0501000a@j> Message-ID: <491727DE.7060605@flightsim.com> Thanks for the suggestion! Let's hope it works. I'll probably start on it this afternoon. --Nels Anderson James Fischer wrote: > > I've had sucess using a small strip of duct > tape to close the open side of an open-end wrench, > and thereby hold the nut in place while bolts are > being turned. > > The duct tape would take on a "U" shape, attaching to > one jaw of the wrench, the face of the nut, and then > the other side of the jaw of the nut. > > When done, pull away the wrench, and don't sweat the > duct tape fragment, as it will become brittle and > fall away from the engine later. > > If your wrenches are thicker than your nuts, go get > a set of bicycle cone wrenches - they are very thin. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Nov 10 01:52:29 2008 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 01:52:29 -0700 Subject: [Mg-t] Engine Parts In-Reply-To: <20081109130345.l53ade63vokg4oo4@webmail.athenet.net> References: <20081109130345.l53ade63vokg4oo4@webmail.athenet.net> Message-ID: <4917F64D.5090206@bradakis.com> Too bad you don't live near Salt Lake City - then the choice would be obvious. Mike Bailey, at Bailey's Service has been working on T series MGs for quite some time. I work there part time as the Triumph guy. We do a fair bit of business as a distributor for Moss Motors, as well as some other suppliers. Okay, enough shameless self promotion: http://baileysautomotive.com Check the Monster List, http://www.dimebank.com/monster for various suppliers of parts. I believe there might be a person or two on these lists that are also Moss distributors and can assist with parts location. mjb. From johnsfolly at gmail.com Mon Nov 10 10:31:23 2008 From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 12:31:23 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Dynamo output Message-ID: Is there a "comfortable" wattage output to keep in mind when considering the capabilities of the stock dynamo on the XPAG motor? I am thinking of upgrading to halogen lights front and rear, an LED lightbar in the back, and adding a heater. Will I potentially over-tax the dynamo on a cold rainy night with everything electrical switched on? Thanks! John Deikis -- Racing in the Past Lane! From felperg at earthlink.net Mon Nov 10 10:58:33 2008 From: felperg at earthlink.net (Gerald Felper) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 09:58:33 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] Dynamo output In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69321E8E-6E78-419D-B7C1-CFA7680ED0C2@earthlink.net> John The XPAG generator is rated at about 15 amps maximum which is 180 watts. The ign. system takes about 5 amps depending on the power of the coil which is 60 watts just to operate the engine. Most halogen lamps do not take much more power (current) than standard lamps. They just are brighter. If each head lamp is 50 watts that does not leave much margin at night. Jerry On Nov 10, 2008, at 9:31 AM, JohnD wrote: > Is there a "comfortable" wattage output to keep in mind when > considering the > capabilities of the stock dynamo on the XPAG motor? > I am thinking of upgrading to halogen lights front and rear, an LED > lightbar > in the back, and adding a heater. Will I potentially over-tax the > dynamo on > a cold rainy night with everything electrical switched on? > Thanks! > > John Deikis > -- > Racing in the Past Lane! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive Gerald Felper Felper Engineering felperg at earthlink.net From ted at the-jacksons.ca Mon Nov 10 13:35:05 2008 From: ted at the-jacksons.ca (Ted Jackson) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 15:35:05 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Dynamo output In-Reply-To: <69321E8E-6E78-419D-B7C1-CFA7680ED0C2@earthlink.net> References: <69321E8E-6E78-419D-B7C1-CFA7680ED0C2@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <123a96030811101235j456e9fe2t182e8133875c6f06@mail.gmail.com> John, There is a firm on the internet SuperBrightLEDs which sells an LED called LUXEON. - mine are 3 watt but they now offer a 5 watt. I also have an LED light bar. When I turn on the parking lights the ammeter barely moves. My one quibble with the front markers is that they are unnaturally white compared to incandescents. Your job will be much easier if you switch to negative ground. Ted On Mon, Nov 10, 2008 at 12:58 PM, Gerald Felper wrote: > John > The XPAG generator is rated at about 15 amps maximum which is 180 > watts. The ign. system takes about 5 amps depending on the power of > the coil which is 60 watts just to operate the engine. Most halogen > lamps do not take much more power (current) than standard lamps. They > just are brighter. If each head lamp is 50 watts that does not leave > much margin at night. > Jerry > > On Nov 10, 2008, at 9:31 AM, JohnD wrote: > > > Is there a "comfortable" wattage output to keep in mind when > > considering the > > capabilities of the stock dynamo on the XPAG motor? > > I am thinking of upgrading to halogen lights front and rear, an LED > > lightbar > > in the back, and adding a heater. Will I potentially over-tax the > > dynamo on > > a cold rainy night with everything electrical switched on? > > Thanks! > > > > John Deikis > > -- > > Racing in the Past Lane! > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > > Gerald Felper > Felper Engineering > felperg at earthlink.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From ddubois at sinclair.net Mon Nov 10 14:24:34 2008 From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 13:24:34 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] Dynamo output In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4918A692.8090608@sinclair.net> John, Look at the number on your dynamo. If it is C39PV, then the spec is for 17 amps (204 watts). If the number is C39PV2, the spec is 19 amps (228 watts). The original head lights for the car were rated at 35 watts per bulb on low beam and 45 watts on high beam. The present day Sylvania Silverstar (high output sealed beam halagen bubs) pull about the same power. I tested one that I have in the garage and it tested at 3 amps (36 watts) for low beam and 3.9 amps (47 watts) on high beam - essentially the same as the OEM bulbs. LED light bars pull a very small amount of current, so can be discounted unless you are very near to total capacity. A couple of considerations. If you have th3 C39PV dynamo rated at 17 amps, you can get a repair kit for it from Holcombe Armature Co. 800-241-3027 that includes a new armature that is rated at 19 amps to upgrade your present dynamo. I would also get the solid state regulator modification that Bob Jeffers (bobj50 at comcast.net) makes that contains a protection circuit so that the dynamo will never produce more current than its rated value. This will protect the dynamo in case you get more stuff drawing current than the dynamo can handle. Finally, most of the current being drawn by the electrical system comes from the battery, with the dynamo primarily keeping the battery charged. Present day batteries will supply a lot of current for a relatively long period of time, so if you are pulling 25 amps while driving on a cold rainy night with the high beams, windshield wiper, and heater blower on, and the cell phone charger plugged in, the lion's share of that is coming from the battery, with the dynamo trying to keep up with the discharge of the battery. The result is that the battery will be slowly discharged. If you are not on a marathon run, you will get to your destination ok, but the battery will be in a somewhat depleted state, but if it is a relatively new battery, everything will be fine. I would suggest that you also get one of the battery tenders that can be left plugged in when your car is not being used. This will restore the charge on the battery without overcharging it. Bottom line, if you don't go wild with the headlights (putting in the 2 million candle power bulbs that are so loved by the big 4 X 4 crowd) you will be fine with the OEM dynamo. Cheers, Dave From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz Mon Nov 10 15:42:44 2008 From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod) Date: Tue, 11 Nov 2008 11:42:44 +1300 Subject: [Mg-t] Engine Parts Message-ID: I have used Bob Ford at Brit-Tek http://www.brittek.com/ for many years. He is in NH and I am in New Zealand so no vested interest. He is a Moss reseller, but also sources parts from other places - sometimes second hand if required. He owns T types and is very knowledgeable and helpful. A big plus for me is that he is happy to use good old US post which saves me a lot on shipping to NZ (and inspite of its reputation US post has always been fast and relaible). Cheers Douglas -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J Bradakis Sent: Monday, 10 November 2008 9:52 PM To: Mg-t at autox.team.net; MG LIST Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Engine Parts Too bad you don't live near Salt Lake City - then the choice would be obvious. Mike Bailey, at Bailey's Service has been working on T series MGs for quite some time. I work there part time as the Triumph guy. We do a fair bit of business as a distributor for Moss Motors, as well as some other suppliers. Okay, enough shameless self promotion: http://baileysautomotive.com Check the Monster List, http://www.dimebank.com/monster for various suppliers of parts. I believe there might be a person or two on these lists that are also Moss distributors and can assist with parts location. mjb. Mg-t at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From johnsfolly at gmail.com Sat Nov 22 20:33:56 2008 From: johnsfolly at gmail.com (JohnD) Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 22:33:56 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Dynamo output In-Reply-To: <4918A692.8090608@sinclair.net> References: <4918A692.8090608@sinclair.net> Message-ID: Thanks to everybody for all of the helpful information on this. John Deikis -- Racing in the Past Lane! From kingseim at earthlink.net Tue Nov 25 08:29:53 2008 From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim) Date: Tue, 25 Nov 2008 07:29:53 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] Fwd: [MGVR] T Series MG data plate offered TC 5140 Message-ID: <101095a28f697d935fb1d2505bab7a0b@earthlink.net> Begin forwarded message: > From: "Chris Meyers" > Date: November 24, 2008 5:23:06 PM PST > To: > Subject: [MGVR] T Series MG data plate offered > Reply-To: MGVR at yahoogroups.com > > Hello All; > The message below was received via relay from MGVR website. > > I am in possession of the original plate for MG Car No. TC/ 5140 - > Engine No. XPAG 5773 The MG Car Company Ltd. Abington-on-Thames. > My deceased husband purchased the MG TC from Denver Cornett in the > early fifties in Louisville, Ky. If the plate is of interest please > feel free to contact me. > > M. Rosenberg > > > Anyone interested please contact M. Rosenberg at > lbmerose at bellsouth.net > > Regards to all, > > Chris Meyers > > > > Chris Meyers, Editor > MG Vintage Racers' Newsletter > www.mgvr.org > editor at mgvr.org > > __._,_.___ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of serv.gif] > Your email settings: Individual Email|Traditional > Change settings via the Web (Yahoo! ID required) > Change settings via email: Switch delivery to Daily Digest | Switch > to Fully Featured > Visit Your Group | Yahoo! Groups Terms of Use | Unsubscribe > > __,_._,___ From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 26 17:13:32 2008 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 18:13:32 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] Moss Speedi-Sleeve and XPAG oil seal kit Message-ID: <5306B121-E498-489E-83BC-56A4C3C8DF39@sbcglobal.net> Has anyone successfully used the speedi-sleeve with the XPAG oil seal kit? It wouldn't fit my engine. After I got mine all back together, it leaks a little and I want to know if it actually can work. The directions for the speedy sleeve in the seal instructions contradict the addendum which tells you to put the sleeve on backwards. I had an engineer look it over and he had me grind off the excess edge of the sleeve to get enough clearance to not hit the Moss adapter. Moss is no help. Their tech support guy didn't even know what the speedi-sleeve was and I had to send him the part number so he knew what I was talking about. If I had to do it again, I would keep my $250 pull the pan and replace the cork rear gasket with some modern sealer. I think that is where the oil was coming from anyway. Mike From kingseim at earthlink.net Thu Nov 27 07:44:27 2008 From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 06:44:27 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] [mg-tabc] Moss Speedi-Sleeve and XPAG oil seal kit In-Reply-To: <5306B121-E498-489E-83BC-56A4C3C8DF39@sbcglobal.net> References: <5306B121-E498-489E-83BC-56A4C3C8DF39@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <5540e2355869d04ee784dd2b77ac4808@earthlink.net> Speedi-Sleeve went on crankshaft OK. When flywheel installed, it was pressing the sleeve off. I believe that the flywheel to crankshaft opening needs to be enlarged, to accept the sleeve thickness. Make sure that the cork gasket fully sits in the groove on the rear main cap. John Seim Irvine, CA On Nov 26, 2008, at 4:13 PM, Mike Duvall wrote: > Has anyone successfully used the speedi-sleeve with the XPAG oil seal > kit? It wouldn't fit my engine. After I got mine all back together, > it leaks a little and I want to know if it actually can work. The > directions for the speedy sleeve in the seal instructions contradict > the addendum which tells you to put the sleeve on backwards. > > I had an engineer look it over and he had me grind off the excess > edge of the sleeve to get enough clearance to not hit the Moss adapter. > > Moss is no help. Their tech support guy didn't even know what the > speedi-sleeve was and I had to send him the part number so he knew > what I was talking about. > > > If I had to do it again, I would keep my $250 pull the pan and > replace the cork rear gasket with some modern sealer. I think that > is where the oil was coming from anyway. > > Mike > > ------------------------------------ > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mg-tabc/ > > <*> Your email settings: > Individual Email | Traditional > > <*> To change settings online go to: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/mg-tabc/join > (Yahoo! ID required) > > <*> To change settings via email: > mailto:mg-tabc-digest at yahoogroups.com > mailto:mg-tabc-fullfeatured at yahoogroups.com > > <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > mg-tabc-unsubscribe at yahoogroups.com > > <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ From krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com Thu Nov 27 09:04:34 2008 From: krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com (Krislyn Co.LLC) Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 11:04:34 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] MIKE DUVALL Message-ID: <003c01c950a9$d7705c50$0501a8c0@ME> Mike the sleeve does work but the rear of the flywheel needs to be machined as it doesnt fit properly when the seal goes on on SOME motors.... my 1952 MG TD Mark II has absolutley NO leaks anywhere ... hard to believe after all these years i finally got it e mail me krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com and i'll get you the exact process for the seal install...it's truly easy when you see what needs to be done... rocky d Happy Thanksgiving Everyone! From crownwheel at surfglobal.net Sun Nov 30 08:21:42 2008 From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 10:21:42 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] question Message-ID: <023101c952ff$5a11e4b0$0e35ae10$@net> Listers, do anyone of you know where I can get a model of a 1953 MGTD.? Cheers Gene Vermont From rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net Sun Nov 30 10:23:26 2008 From: rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net (rfeibusch1 at earthlink.net) Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 12:23:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [Mg-t] Model question Message-ID: <26620006.1228065806968.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> -----Original Message----- >From: Gene Fodor > >Listers, do anyone of you know where I can get a model of a 1953 MGTD.? > >Cheers > >Gene >*********************************** Gene, There are very few models of the TD and I had most of them when I had mine.. None are available today except on eBay o Dopke made a huge kit in metal in the early 1950s (about 1/12th scale) with working suspension and steering - very good - I restored one to match my real TD - sold it many years ago for $285!! Matchbox did one in HO scale - I have one - A British train accessory firm reprod them in the 1970s as white metal kits and these still might be available. o MY FIRST MODEL!! Revell made a really great model in 1/32nd scale in the early 1950s and these were re-issued many times - the Japanese somehow got the molds (marketed here as Mini Craft) and did a reissue of the whole line (TD, XK120, Ferrari Barchetta, and Ford hot rod) all in one box. Only demerit was that you had to paint the chrome parts so they never looked shiny enough.... o Aurora Models also did a 1/32nd kit that was so out of proportion that I could have fasioned a Jag SS100 out of it - reissued a bunch of times but who cares??? o Abingdon Classics in the UK made them in 1/43rd scale in both built-up and kit form - I still have my maroon factory made example - REALLY, REALLY nice. o Ideal Toy Co. made a crude plastic kit approximation with working rack and pinion steering in about 1956 - very educational - they forgot to include the rear mounted spare! o Wills Finecast (now called Southeast Finecast) made a very detailed white metal kit 1n 1/24th scale - Moss Motors even used to list them in their catalog - Might still even be available. Rick Feibusch Venice, CA