From krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun  1 11:04:14 2008
From: krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com (Krislyn Co.LLC)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 13:04:14 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] tonneau cover question
Message-ID: <000a01c8c409$85661a30$6501a8c0@ME>

hello folks

cleaning out the barn...found a (what appears to be as new)  full tonneau
cover black leather that has the bar type holders at the rear .....snaps (not
lift the dot) at the two front corners but oddly has two "bump ups" for
headrests..... also has two zippers running width wise bhind the head rest
bump ups so as to leave the rear cover portion on while motoring...  any
thoughts on what it fits....   i am a t car guy and am sure it's not for a t
series..

thanks
rocky d

From krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com  Sun Jun  1 18:48:50 2008
From: krislynco.llc at roadrunner.com (Krislyn Co.LLC)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 20:48:50 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] tonneau
Message-ID: <000c01c8c44a$6c5c6e40$6501a8c0@ME>

thanks to all on the MGB tonneau.... this it is.... I forgot I once had an
early  1974 MGB Chrome bumper beauty and this was her tonneau....    just as
new....  amazing!

thanks again
rocky

From LAF48 at aol.com  Wed Jun 11 17:12:59 2008
From: LAF48 at aol.com (LAF48 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:12:59 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] TC-TF crankshaft
Message-ID: <c33.2d8c3884.3581b5fb@aol.com>

Hello group, I have a customer who needs a T type crankshaft, any one know of 
a good one out there? T.I.A. Len


**************
Vote for your city's best 
dining and nightlife. City's Best 2008.
      
(http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Mon Jun 16 06:36:33 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 08:36:33 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TF parts for sale
Message-ID: <48565E51.1060401@comcast.net>

I got an email from a friend whoran into someone at a car show that had  
1954 TF parts to sell somewhere near Columbia, PA.
He mentioned a right side door and front fender and a transmission tunnel.
Here is his contact info:
 
Carl Kreider
{ph}    717-626-7478
{email} cr57ford at dejazzd.com <mailto:cr57ford at dejazzd.com>

Please don't contact me.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From bobmgtd at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 07:37:35 2008
From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:37:35 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
Message-ID: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

Is there a plug available to fit the "Inspection Lamp Socket" that's on the TD
dashboard? This would be a handy way of connecting 12V electrical accessories.
I'm thinking of making up an adaptor with a "cigarette lighter socket" on the
other end.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jun 18 08:13:59 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:13:59 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
Message-ID: <20080618.101359.3956.15.MGBOB@juno.com>

Bob  
  Yes, or more accurately, there once was at Moss and there may still be.
  Things plugged into the cig lighter may be polarity-sensitive, and
though the lamp socket is color-coded, passengers may not be as careful
as the owner when plugging in. Even in a TD with its splendid cockpit
ventilation, the smell of incorrect polarity through a device is
unmistakable. 
  Some T-owners have installed a cig lighter down in the shadows at
bottom forward end of the underdash panel. Hardwired into the car, the
lighter can be neg earth with car pos earth.  This works for accessories
that don't have an antenna earthed to the car, so CB and radio antennae
must be isolated from the car or magnetic base types used. 
Bob

 
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:37:35 -0400 "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
writes:
> Is there a plug available to fit the "Inspection Lamp Socket" that's 
> on the TD
> dashboard? This would be a handy way of connecting 12V electrical 
> accessories.
> I'm thinking of making up an adaptor with a "cigarette lighter 
> socket" on the
> other end.
> 
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
____________________________________________________________
Need cash? Click to get a cash advance.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mKesvZ6qvhtidM0FfhXE4zexw6gFEzJCaYXDmzIv2sa9CGg/

From rthompson2666 at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 08:29:58 2008
From: rthompson2666 at comcast.net (Roger D. Thompson)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:29:58 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
References: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAM1FHtHtbx9Dro7hI2r8zTTCgAAAEAAAAJyyQAVjErJOiky3xtcb3BUBAAAAAA==@comcast.net>

Bob,

See http://www.abingdonsparesllc.com/catpg39detail.html Item 12a.

Roger D. Thompson

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+rthompson2666=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+rthompson2666=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bob Donahue
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 8:38 AM
To: MG_TABC; mg-t
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"

Is there a plug available to fit the "Inspection Lamp Socket" that's on the
TD
dashboard? This would be a handy way of connecting 12V electrical
accessories.
I'm thinking of making up an adaptor with a "cigarette lighter socket" on
the
other end.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

From nels at flightsim.com  Wed Jun 18 08:49:40 2008
From: nels at flightsim.com (Nels Anderson)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:49:40 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
References: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
Message-ID: <48592084.2040802@flightsim.com>

I looked into this at one time. Apparently, this was a standard socket 
at one time (my Land Rover has the exact same one) and various 
accessories were available for it. I thought Moss Motors sold the plug, 
though maybe not any more. I used to see them come up on eBay every so 
often too. They usually seem to be quite expensive for what is just a 
simple plug. Radio Shack sells similar plugs and sockets, but 
unfortunately the ones I found were not quite the right size but it's 
possible a larger electronics dealer would have one that fits.

--Nels Anderson
  1953 MGTD

Bob Donahue wrote:
> Is there a plug available to fit the "Inspection Lamp Socket" that's on the TD
> dashboard? This would be a handy way of connecting 12V electrical accessories.
> I'm thinking of making up an adaptor with a "cigarette lighter socket" on the
> other end.
>
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From mrkshrmn at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 18 08:59:26 2008
From: mrkshrmn at hotmail.com (Mark Sherman)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:59:26 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <48592084.2040802@flightsim.com>
References: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
	<48592084.2040802@flightsim.com>
Message-ID: <BAY116-W31403D43FFCB976EA8B9A3D1AB0@phx.gbl>

With a bit of patience and hand tools, the Radio Shack plugs (available in red
and black) can be made to fit the Lucas socket.

I made a "pigtail" that can plug into the dash, with a standard cigarette
lighter socket at the end.

Mark Sherman



> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:49:40 -0400> From: nels at flightsim.com> To:
bobmgtd at comcast.net; Mg-t at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Plug for
"Inspection Lamp Socket"> > I looked into this at one time. Apparently, this
was a standard socket > at one time (my Land Rover has the exact same one) and
various > accessories were available for it. I thought Moss Motors sold the
plug, > though maybe not any more. I used to see them come up on eBay every so
> often too. They usually seem to be quite expensive for what is just a >
simple plug. Radio Shack sells similar plugs and sockets, but > unfortunately
the ones I found were not quite the right size but it's > possible a larger
electronics dealer would have one that fits.> > --Nels Anderson> 1953 MGTD> >
Bob Donahue wrote:> > Is there a plug available to fit the "Inspection Lamp
Socket" that's on the TD> > dashboard? This would be a handy way of connecting
12V electrical accessories.> > I'm thinking of making up an adaptor with a
"cigarette lighter socket" on the> > other end.> >> > Bob Donahue (Still Stuck
in the '50s)> > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net> > Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639> > 71
MGB - #GHN5UB254361> > Member: NEMGTR #11470> > NAMGBR # 7-3336> > Hoosier MGB
Club> > Olde Octagons of Indiana> >
_______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Mg-t at autox.team.net> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> >> > Archives at
http://www.team.net/archive> _______________________________________________>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg-t at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at
http://www.team.net/archive

From felperg at earthlink.net  Wed Jun 18 09:18:55 2008
From: felperg at earthlink.net (Gerald Felper)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 08:18:55 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <BAY116-W31403D43FFCB976EA8B9A3D1AB0@phx.gbl>
References: <000601c8d148$785954f0$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
	<48592084.2040802@flightsim.com>
	<BAY116-W31403D43FFCB976EA8B9A3D1AB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <FCAA9D82-EE50-44D9-9288-28FD4AF1B883@earthlink.net>

Moss has the plugs in stock.
Jerry

On Jun 18, 2008, at 7:59 AM, Mark Sherman wrote:

> With a bit of patience and hand tools, the Radio Shack plugs  
> (available in red
> and black) can be made to fit the Lucas socket.
>
> I made a "pigtail" that can plug into the dash, with a standard  
> cigarette
> lighter socket at the end.
>
> Mark Sherman
>
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:49:40 -0400> From: nels at flightsim.com> To:
> bobmgtd at comcast.net; Mg-t at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Plug for
> "Inspection Lamp Socket"> > I looked into this at one time.  
> Apparently, this
> was a standard socket > at one time (my Land Rover has the exact  
> same one) and
> various > accessories were available for it. I thought Moss Motors  
> sold the
> plug, > though maybe not any more. I used to see them come up on  
> eBay every so
>> often too. They usually seem to be quite expensive for what is  
>> just a >
> simple plug. Radio Shack sells similar plugs and sockets, but >  
> unfortunately
> the ones I found were not quite the right size but it's > possible  
> a larger
> electronics dealer would have one that fits.> > --Nels Anderson>  
> 1953 MGTD> >
> Bob Donahue wrote:> > Is there a plug available to fit the  
> "Inspection Lamp
> Socket" that's on the TD> > dashboard? This would be a handy way of  
> connecting
> 12V electrical accessories.> > I'm thinking of making up an adaptor  
> with a
> "cigarette lighter socket" on the> > other end.> >> > Bob Donahue  
> (Still Stuck
> in the '50s)> > Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net> > Cars: 52 MGTD -  
> #17639> > 71
> MGB - #GHN5UB254361> > Member: NEMGTR #11470> > NAMGBR # 7-3336> >  
> Hoosier MGB
> Club> > Olde Octagons of Indiana> >
> _______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Mg-t at autox.team.net> >
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> >> > Archives at
> http://www.team.net/archive>  
> _______________________________________________>
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg- 
>> t at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at
> http://www.team.net/archive
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

Gerald Felper
Felper Engineering
felperg at earthlink.net

From bobmgtd at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 09:43:37 2008
From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:43:37 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
References: <20080618.101359.3956.15.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <001701c8d15a$1393e320$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

A diode in series with one of the leads can protect the device against 
reverse polarity. I plan to put one in my "adapter".

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
Cc: <mg-tabc at yahoogroups.com>; <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"


> Bob
>  Yes, or more accurately, there once was at Moss and there may still be.
>  Things plugged into the cig lighter may be polarity-sensitive, and
> though the lamp socket is color-coded, passengers may not be as careful
> as the owner when plugging in. Even in a TD with its splendid cockpit
> ventilation, the smell of incorrect polarity through a device is
> unmistakable.
>  Some T-owners have installed a cig lighter down in the shadows at
> bottom forward end of the underdash panel. Hardwired into the car, the
> lighter can be neg earth with car pos earth.  This works for accessories
> that don't have an antenna earthed to the car, so CB and radio antennae
> must be isolated from the car or magnetic base types used.
> Bob
>
>
> On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 09:37:35 -0400 "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
> writes:
>> Is there a plug available to fit the "Inspection Lamp Socket" that's
>> on the TD
>> dashboard? This would be a handy way of connecting 12V electrical
>> accessories.
>> I'm thinking of making up an adaptor with a "cigarette lighter
>> socket" on the
>> other end.
>>
>> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
>> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
>> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
>> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>>                Hoosier MGB Club
>>                Olde Octagons of Indiana

From mgbob at juno.com  Wed Jun 18 10:18:39 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:18:39 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
Message-ID: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>

Bob,
   Does the use of the diode mean that if the device works it's OK, and
if it doesn't work there is no harm done -- just reverse the plug?
Bob
 
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:43:37 -0400 "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
writes:
> A diode in series with one of the leads can protect the device 
> against 
> reverse polarity. I plan to put one in my "adapter".
> 
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
____________________________________________________________
Solve paternity questions with expert DNA testing. Click now!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nOJ05axcoVO8xGv6PspFRWtSOn1GDHM4icefK1q3RtYTjqU/

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 18 11:20:22 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:20:22 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>

You need 1N5401 rectifier diode	3A	100V  (radio shack or any local  
electronics parts store if you have one)   It will go in like an  
inline fuse but with polarity.

One end has a line on it and it will go to the negative side.   So on  
positive ground car,   the line side will go to the power negative  
(dash) side.   (reverse it for negative ground)

Put a 3 amp inline fuse with it.  You might consider putting the fuse  
and the rectifier behind the dash.

It is like a one way hydraulic valve.  It won't work backwards so you  
just reverse the plug.


On Jun 18, 2008, at 11:18 AM, Bob Howard wrote:

> Bob,
>    Does the use of the diode mean that if the device works it's OK,  
> and
> if it doesn't work there is no harm done -- just reverse the plug?
> Bob

From mgcharlie at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 11:25:38 2008
From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:25:38 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Electric coolers
Message-ID: <48594512.2040500@comcast.net>

Bob,
Another nice thing about the electric cooler is that when you get to a 
hotel, there is an adapter that you can use to plug it into the wall 
socket.  I haven't gotten any complaints from hotels.  Perhaps they like 
that better than everyone raiding the ice machines to fill their coolers.
I think I got it at K mart several years ago.  At the time it was a 
closeout special.  I may need to look for another as it doesn't seem to 
cool as well as it did when new.  If things aren't cold already, it 
can't seem to keep up.
It fits quite nicely in the "luggage compartment".  Exterior size is 
similar to a Coleman Oscar.
I just run the lead under the seat back at the tunnel and along the 
tunnel to the dash.  My cigarette lighter socket has lugs that take wood 
screws to screw it to the back side of the dash.

Charlie
PS
I just did a search.  Check out http://tinyurl.com/5kfp29
I know I didn't pay nearly that much though.  It looks a lot like it, 
though maybe not exactly the same.
PPS  Here is the brand that I have: http://tinyurl.com/yum2fn
A bit cheaper and cools better.

Bob Howard wrote:
Charlie,
  I agree about the neg earth, and changed my TD years ago.
  The problem with using the dash plug is accidentally putting it in
"wrong" so that anything grounded to car chassis gets zapped if there is
any grounding through its antenna. If one isolates the antenna or uses
magnetic base, the CB is unaffected.   I've read in several places that 
the spark plugs do fire better with
pos earth, but everyone agrees that if it's better it is so little better
as to almost be past measuring.  As long as the coil is wired correctly,
they get full sparking power and everything works fine.  Originally our
coils had CB and something else marked on them instead of + and -, 
possibly a tacit admission that the entire world was moving away from pos
earth.   If Hal Kramer installs a diode & transistor package in the clock (
reduces arcing on the points) he wants to know polarity.   I like your 
idea of the electric cooler---have not seen one small
enough to work in the TD's space.  Now I will have to go looking for one.
Bob

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of mgcharlie.vcf]

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Wed Jun 18 11:39:49 2008
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 10:39:49 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <48594865.8060506@sinclair.net>

> Does the use of the diode mean that if the device works it's OK, and if it doesn't work there is no harm done -- just reverse the plug?
That is exactly what a diode will do for you.  Two things to consider - 
1) the diode must be sized to accommodate the maximum current draw you 
expect to have and 2) even with a diode in the line, the circuit should 
be fused at a level that will protect the wiring from releasing all the 
smoke should the device that is being plugged in have an exposed ground 
that touches ground on the car since the device being plugged in will 
have a negative ground and the car (unless converted to negative ground) 
will be positive ground.

The original plug that fits the sockets on the dash of the TD are not 
real long life items, since the prongs are just split brass prongs and 
they become loose in a very short time.  A better approach is to get a 
auxiliary power outlet (looks like a cigarette lighter plug, but 
completely isolated from ground). The one that comes to mind is a Sea 
Bowld P/N 19-166-0042, available from boat supply stores such as 
Boater's World.

Before installing such a set up, read through the discussion on it in 
the T series TD-TF BBS under the thread title "The saga of the steering 
wheel" (a two part thread), where the various safety concerns are 
discussed and a link is provided to Barney Gaylord's web site where the 
same subject is discussed.  It is necessary to understand the safety 
ramifications of plugging any kind of device that is of different 
polarity than that of the car, even though it is easy enough to set up a 
plug that will accommodate it.  It is necessary to insure that no metal 
portion of the device being used is connected to any portion of the 
internal circuit in the device.  If there is contact to even the 
smallest screw on the device, the potential for an incinerated wiring 
harness is almost inevitable.  The best approach, if you want to run 
some modern device off of the car's electrical system is to convert the 
car to negative ground or install a polarity converter as Barney Gaylord 
suggests in his article.

Cheers,
Dave

From stanley_brohn at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 18 13:43:42 2008
From: stanley_brohn at hotmail.com (Stanley Brohn)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:43:42 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>

Hi all,
> > You need 1N5401 rectifier diode 3A 100V (radio shack or any local >
electronics parts store if you have one) It will go in like an > inline fuse
but with polarity.> > One end has a line on it and it will go to the negative
side. So on > positive ground car, the line side will go to the power negative
> (dash) side. (reverse it for negative ground)
>

Good explanation
>
> Put a 3 amp inline fuse with it. You might consider putting the fuse > and
the rectifier behind the dash.>

I'm not sure that will give you what you want. The full voltage (-0.7 V from
it) will still be at the terminals if you put the diode behing the dash. I
think you would have to put the diode on what ever you plug into the dash.
>
Sometime to be sure they will have a diode across the input to the device so
that if it is plugged or connected wrong it will blow the fuse.

      Stanley
_________________________________________________________________
Introducing Live Search cashback .  It's search that pays you back!
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shback

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 18 14:32:56 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 15:32:56 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>
	<BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1FFFE478-CA48-478A-914E-ED6327C5A535@sbcglobal.net>

Stanley,  voltage has nothing to do with it..... a diode prevents  
reverse current flow.... try it with a meter...... or check this out....

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/1.html

3 amps on a fridge might not be enough though,  Radio Shack has a 6  
amp rectifier (big diode) which should handle a small fridge.

If Bob is using positive ground, like the others have said, be  
careful not to short anything out.   A cheap cooler is likely to be  
mainly plastic.

If your afraid of damaging the car wiring, skip the sockets and run 2  
wires directly from the battery and fuse it.

I wouldn't run a T series without adding a fuses so the entire system  
is protected.  There are a couple of simple places to do it.

Mike

On Jun 18, 2008, at 2:43 PM, Stanley Brohn wrote:

> Hi all,
>>> You need 1N5401 rectifier diode 3A 100V (radio shack or any local >
> electronics parts store if you have one) It will go in like an >  
> inline fuse
> but with polarity.> > One end has a line on it and it will go to  
> the negative
> side. So on > positive ground car, the line side will go to the  
> power negative
>> (dash) side. (reverse it for negative ground)
>>
>
> Good explanation
>>
>> Put a 3 amp inline fuse with it. You might consider putting the  
>> fuse > and
> the rectifier behind the dash.>
>
> I'm not sure that will give you what you want. The full voltage  
> (-0.7 V from
> it) will still be at the terminals if you put the diode behing the  
> dash. I
> think you would have to put the diode on what ever you plug into  
> the dash.
>>
> Sometime to be sure they will have a diode across the input to the  
> device so
> that if it is plugged or connected wrong it will blow the fuse.
>
>       Stanley
> _________________________________________________________________
> Introducing Live Search cashback .  It's search that pays you back!
> http://search.live.com/cashback/?&pkw=form=MIJAAF/publ=HMTGL/ 
> crea=introsrchca
> shback
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From stanley_brohn at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 18 15:57:37 2008
From: stanley_brohn at hotmail.com (Stanley Brohn)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 16:57:37 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <1FFFE478-CA48-478A-914E-ED6327C5A535@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>
	<BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>
	<1FFFE478-CA48-478A-914E-ED6327C5A535@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W52EDD47CF225EECB51E75591AB0@phx.gbl>

Mike,
    I not sure if I explained what I was trying to say in my last email. But
if you look at the light bulb and reversed the connections at the bulb in "A"
the bulb would still burn since the diode is conducting and allows current to
flow. If you did the same thing in 'B' the bulb still wouldn't burn since the
diode isn't conducting. But if you put the diode at the bulb then the light
wouldn't burn in either "A" or "B" in one hook up direction. And yes voltage
does have somthing to do with it, if the diode is conducting then voltage will
be on both sides of the diode minus ~0.7 v allowing current to flow from the
current source. We are both saying the same thing only the placement of the
diode is the issue.

         Stanley
      > > Stanley, voltage has nothing to do with it..... a diode prevents >
reverse current flow.... try it with a meter...... or check this out....> >
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/1.html
_________________________________________________________________
Earn cashback on your purchases with Live Search - the search that pays you
back!
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k

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 18 20:32:51 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 21:32:51 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>
	<BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8C4A7F76-8335-4944-B03B-5DEB82B18B72@sbcglobal.net>

Stanley pointed out to me the obvious. A diode has to go on the  
adapter side.   A diode behind the dash (on the supply side) would  
never work.

You could (and should) put a fuse behind the dash on the terminal.    
Radio Shack also has a 6 amp diode (4 for 1.89)   which should be  
plenty big.




On Jun 18, 2008, at 2:43 PM, Stanley Brohn wrote:

> Hi all,
>>> You need 1N5401 rectifier diode 3A 100V (radio shack or any local >
> electronics parts store if you have one) It will go in like an >  
> inline fuse
> but with polarity.> > One end has a line on it and it will go to  
> the negative
> side. So on > positive ground car, the line side will go to the  
> power negative
>> (dash) side. (reverse it for negative ground)
>>
>
> Good explanation
>>
>> Put a 3 amp inline fuse with it. You might consider putting the  
>> fuse > and
> the rectifier behind the dash.>
>
> I'm not sure that will give you what you want. The full voltage  
> (-0.7 V from
> it) will still be at the terminals if you put the diode behing the  
> dash. I
> think you would have to put the diode on what ever you plug into  
> the dash.
>>
> Sometime to be sure they will have a diode across the input to the  
> device so
> that if it is plugged or connected wrong it will blow the fuse.
>
>       Stanley
> _________________________________________________________________
> Introducing Live Search cashback .  It's search that pays you back!
> http://search.live.com/cashback/?&pkw=form=MIJAAF/publ=HMTGL/ 
> crea=introsrchca
> shback
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Wed Jun 18 21:56:36 2008
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 20:56:36 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <1FFFE478-CA48-478A-914E-ED6327C5A535@sbcglobal.net>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<5230540C-E38F-4CED-A775-D67ACB0096DB@sbcglobal.net>
	<BAY109-W23268725130D9AC8ACCC0791AB0@phx.gbl>
	<1FFFE478-CA48-478A-914E-ED6327C5A535@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <4859D8F4.5060508@sinclair.net>

> If your afraid of damaging the car wiring, skip the sockets and run 2 wires directly from the battery and fuse it.
It doesn't matter where the wires are connected, the danger is still 
there - you are connecting negative 12 volts to the ground side of the 
device you are plugging in and if that device has any exposed metal that 
is in contact with the ground in the device, it will cause a problem if 
it comes in contact with the car's ground.

Cheers,
Dave

From JagMkV at aol.com  Thu Jun 19 12:50:43 2008
From: JagMkV at aol.com (JagMkV at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 14:50:43 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] Inspection lamp
Message-ID: <c18.39f5305d.358c0483@aol.com>

My wife gave me an original Lucas Inspection Lamp for  Christmas.  We found 
it at the British Invasion. It needs to be  rewired.  Does anyone know what 
kind of wire it should contain, and where I  can find some?
Many thanks
Craig Carragan
Southbury, CT USA



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jun 19 13:18:44 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:18:44 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
Message-ID: <20080619.163127.1068.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

Mike,
  Thanks. That's a useful thing to know.  I think I have a spare plug, so
will make up one of these handy adapters as you described. 
  Would it be OK to forward your advice to our club newsletter editor for
inclusion as a tech tip?
Bob
 
On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 12:20:22 -0500 Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> You need 1N5401 rectifier diode        3A        100V  (radio shack 
> or any local  
> electronics parts store if you have one)   It will go in like an  
> inline fuse but with polarity.
> 
> One end has a line on it and it will go to the negative side.   So 
> on  
> positive ground car,   the line side will go to the power negative  
> 
> (dash) side.   (reverse it for negative ground)
> 
> Put a 3 amp inline fuse with it.  You might consider putting the 
> fuse  
> and the rectifier behind the dash.
> 
> It is like a one way hydraulic valve.  It won't work backwards so 
> you  
> just reverse the plug.
> 
> 
> On Jun 18, 2008, at 11:18 AM, Bob Howard wrote:
> 
> > Bob,
> >    Does the use of the diode mean that if the device works it's 
> OK,  
> > and
> > if it doesn't work there is no harm done -- just reverse the 
> plug?
> > Bob
> >
> >
> 
> 
____________________________________________________________
Enter for Your Chance to WIN*
The TotalBeauty.com Summer Spa Sweepstakes!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UfhXx7fftVqdUrrqj4bniTvk9gDQiR1f0Jgw22cX6er9De/

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Jun 19 13:27:10 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:27:10 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Electric coolers
Message-ID: <20080619.163127.1068.4.MGBOB@juno.com>

Charlie,
  Thanks. That's a neat cooler.
  Do I recall dimly from highschool physics that the device that heats /
cools depending on polarity of power is a Peltier or Pelletier junction?
Bob

On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 13:25:38 -0400 Charlie Baldwin
<mgcharlie at comcast.net> writes:
> Bob,
> Another nice thing about the electric cooler is that when you get to 
> a 
> hotel, there is an adapter that you can use to plug it into the wall 
> 
> socket.  I haven't gotten any complaints from hotels.  Perhaps they 
> like 
> that better than everyone raiding the ice machines to fill their 
> coolers.
> I think I got it at K mart several years ago.  At the time it was a 
> 
> closeout special.  I may need to look for another as it doesn't seem 
> to 
> cool as well as it did when new.  If things aren't cold already, it 
> 
> can't seem to keep up.
> It fits quite nicely in the "luggage compartment".  Exterior size is 
> 
> similar to a Coleman Oscar.
> I just run the lead under the seat back at the tunnel and along the 
> 
> tunnel to the dash.  My cigarette lighter socket has lugs that take 
> wood 
> screws to screw it to the back side of the dash.
> 
> Charlie
> PS
> I just did a search.  Check out http://tinyurl.com/5kfp29
> I know I didn't pay nearly that much though.  It looks a lot like 
> it, 
> though maybe not exactly the same.
> PPS  Here is the brand that I have: http://tinyurl.com/yum2fn
> A bit cheaper and cools better.
> 
> Bob Howard wrote:
> Charlie,
>   I agree about the neg earth, and changed my TD years ago.
>   The problem with using the dash plug is accidentally putting it 
> in
> "wrong" so that anything grounded to car chassis gets zapped if 
> there is
> any grounding through its antenna. If one isolates the antenna or 
> uses
> magnetic base, the CB is unaffected.   I've read in several places 
> that 
> the spark plugs do fire better with
> pos earth, but everyone agrees that if it's better it is so little 
> better
> as to almost be past measuring.  As long as the coil is wired 
> correctly,
> they get full sparking power and everything works fine.  Originally 
> our
> coils had CB and something else marked on them instead of + and -, 
> possibly a tacit admission that the entire world was moving away 
> from pos
> earth.   If Hal Kramer installs a diode & transistor package in the 
> clock (
> reduces arcing on the points) he wants to know polarity.   I like 
> your 
> idea of the electric cooler---have not seen one small
> enough to work in the TD's space.  Now I will have to go looking for 
> one.
> Bob
> 
____________________________________________________________
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Enter for your chance to WIN  a summer spa getaway!
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From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Thu Jun 19 17:38:06 2008
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 18:38:06 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Inspection lamp
In-Reply-To: <c18.39f5305d.358c0483@aol.com>
References: <c18.39f5305d.358c0483@aol.com>
Message-ID: <99298269F4104DEAAF96D64965A37396@roundabout.com>

Twisted dual wire, cotton covered. Try this place:
http://www.sundialwire.com/

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of JagMkV at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 1:51 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Inspection lamp

My wife gave me an original Lucas Inspection Lamp for  Christmas.  We found 
it at the British Invasion. It needs to be  rewired.  Does anyone know what 
kind of wire it should contain, and where I  can find some?
Many thanks
Craig Carragan
Southbury, CT USA



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Thu Jun 19 19:40:04 2008
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 13:40:04 +1200
Subject: [Mg-t] Unusual TD side screens
Message-ID: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44010B64@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

This pair of allegedly TD sidescreens with sliding windows has turned up
on our local NZ auction site. Anyone come across these before - were
they an aftermarket accessory or perhaps custom made?



http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=161429329



Cheers



Douglas

From crownwheel at surfglobal.net  Fri Jun 20 03:44:47 2008
From: crownwheel at surfglobal.net (Gene Fodor)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 05:44:47 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Unusual TD side screens
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44010B64@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44010B64@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <019301c8d2ba$47b45610$d71d0230$@net>

Doug, it may be custom made, not a bad idea though. 
It seems that the frame is missing the rear pin (unless you can't see it
from the pix) that fits into the door. So it may not be a TD frame.
Cheers
Gene
"Eliot" Our 53 TD
Vermont


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+crownwheel=surfglobal.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Douglas Ormrod
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:40 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Unusual TD side screens

This pair of allegedly TD sidescreens with sliding windows has turned up
on our local NZ auction site. Anyone come across these before - were
they an aftermarket accessory or perhaps custom made?



http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=161429329



Cheers



Douglas
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Fri Jun 20 09:00:41 2008
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 08:00:41 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Unusual TD side screens
In-Reply-To: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44010B64@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
References: <D90EBE7D0FC5544994DE4B0D5283EC44010B64@NFSVR01.neurological.local>
Message-ID: <ea0b8b921fbff15173590dd551e0b938@earthlink.net>

They don't have the front arm that secures in the side curtain plate 
bracket.

I have seen something like this for a TD Hard Top. Made by Snug-Fit in 
Long Beach, California.
They made plexi-glass sliding window side curtains for the doors, to 
fit their top. Could be another
company that also made a fiberglas hard top for a TD.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 19, 2008, at 6:40 PM, Douglas Ormrod wrote:

> This pair of allegedly TD sidescreens with sliding windows has turned 
> up
> on our local NZ auction site. Anyone come across these before - were
> they an aftermarket accessory or perhaps custom made?
>
> http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.asp?id=161429329
>
> Cheers
>
> Douglas

From gunnellj at athenet.net  Sun Jun 22 16:11:38 2008
From: gunnellj at athenet.net (John A. Gunnell)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 17:11:38 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] (no subject)
Message-ID: <001e01c8d4b4$f2c8b220$cda25f45@gunnellj>


From gunnellj at athenet.net  Sun Jun 22 16:24:34 2008
From: gunnellj at athenet.net (John A. Gunnell)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 17:24:34 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems
Message-ID: <002701c8d4b6$c0e18280$cda25f45@gunnellj>

All

This was a bad week. I "broke" two T Series. Need some feedback on problems
and solutions.

Drove MG TF about 500 mileson two trips. Last trip was 160 miles. Everything
OK. Stopped for lunch. Took off after lunch and steering had tightened up
tremendously. Could just about steer home. Took tie rod ends off. Problem is
in the rack. Bouth boots (gaitors) were not very old but both were torn. I
have since been told that boots being sold now are too short. Better to use
longer MGB boots with MG T clamps. So what is the quality of rack rebuilding
parts being sold today? Does anyone have experience? And would you just buy
all new parts or would you tear down, inspect, replace bad parts and keep as
many good old parts as possible?

Problem 2. With TF down, we took the well-worn TD out of mothballs and drove
it 20 miles to a club gathering. On way back (alone) we stopped to top off the
tank with high test (no ethonol). As soon as we left the filling station, the
engine started racing at 2,500 + rpm by itself. We worked it into gear and
limped home the 20 miles at 30 mph or better without ever touching the
accelerator. The choke cable and carb linkage all seemed to be OK in a
roadside check. If I start car now, it will immediately race at 2500 + rpm.
Anyone have a similar experience? Any idea of cause or how to repair.

John Gunnell
PO Box 87
Iola, WI 54945
715-445-4262
gunnellj at athenet.net

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Sun Jun 22 17:13:41 2008
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 19:13:41 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems
In-Reply-To: <002701c8d4b6$c0e18280$cda25f45@gunnellj>
References: <002701c8d4b6$c0e18280$cda25f45@gunnellj>
Message-ID: <485EDCA5.50708@comcast.net>

John A. Gunnell wrote:
> All
>
> This was a bad week. I "broke" two T Series. Need some feedback on problems
> and solutions.
>
> Drove MG TF about 500 mileson two trips. Last trip was 160 miles. Everything
> OK. Stopped for lunch. Took off after lunch and steering had tightened up
> tremendously. Could just about steer home. Took tie rod ends off. Problem is
> in the rack. Bouth boots (gaitors) were not very old but both were torn. I
> have since been told that boots being sold now are too short. Better to use
> longer MGB boots with MG T clamps. So what is the quality of rack rebuilding
> parts being sold today? Does anyone have experience? And would you just buy
> all new parts or would you tear down, inspect, replace bad parts and keep as
> many good old parts as possible?
>
> Problem 2. With TF down, we took the well-worn TD out of mothballs and drove
> it 20 miles to a club gathering. On way back (alone) we stopped to top off the
> tank with high test (no ethonol). As soon as we left the filling station, the
> engine started racing at 2,500 + rpm by itself. We worked it into gear and
> limped home the 20 miles at 30 mph or better without ever touching the
> accelerator. The choke cable and carb linkage all seemed to be OK in a
> roadside check. If I start car now, it will immediately race at 2500 + rpm.
> Anyone have a similar experience? Any idea of cause or how to repair.
>
> John Gunnell
> PO Box 87
> Iola, WI 54945
> 715-445-4262
> gunnellj at athenet.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> Can't say about the Boot issue, but I have ideas about the TD.  About the only way for that to happen is for something to be keeping the throttle disks (butterflies) from closing.  I'd suggest that you might want to unhook the accelerator control rod (the ball/spring gadget).  The springs on the throttle shafts should be enough to close the throttles.  Do they close?  If not, then something is binding.  Loosen the screw/nut on the coupling between the two throttle shafts so as to make the carburetors function independently.  Will they both close, or does one remain open?
>   

Good luck,

Bud Krueger

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 22 17:45:26 2008
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 19:45:26 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems
In-Reply-To: <002701c8d4b6$c0e18280$cda25f45@gunnellj>
References: <002701c8d4b6$c0e18280$cda25f45@gunnellj>
Message-ID: <BAY102-W1D33E5E568C9D60E9C583B7A70@phx.gbl>

John,
The oil drained out of the steering rack because of the torn boots.  I have
the same problem - I've got to get two new boots on.
If you put a few strokes of the recommended oil (90 weight hypoid, I believe)
your steering should improve.  Of course, it will drain out again, and again,
until you get new boots.

-Mike Eldred
'54 TF 1250> From: gunnellj at athenet.net> To: mg-t at autox.team.net> Date: Sun,
22 Jun 2008 17:24:34 -0500> Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems> > All> > This was a
bad week. I "broke" two T Series. Need some feedback on problems> and
solutions.> > Drove MG TF about 500 mileson two trips. Last trip was 160
miles. Everything> OK. Stopped for lunch. Took off after lunch and steering
had tightened up> tremendously. Could just about steer home. Took tie rod ends
off. Problem is> in the rack. Bouth boots (gaitors) were not very old but both
were torn. I> have since been told that boots being sold now are too short.
Better to use> longer MGB boots with MG T clamps. So what is the quality of
rack rebuilding> parts being sold today? Does anyone have experience? And
would you just buy> all new parts or would you tear down, inspect, replace bad
parts and keep as> many good old parts as possible?> > Problem 2. With TF
down, we took the well-worn TD out of mothballs and drove> it 20 miles to a
club gathering. On way back (alone) we stopped to top off the> tank with high
test (no ethonol). As soon as we left the filling station, the> engine started
racing at 2,500 + rpm by itself. We worked it into gear and> limped home the
20 miles at 30 mph or better without ever touching the> accelerator. The choke
cable and carb linkage all seemed to be OK in a> roadside check. If I start
car now, it will immediately race at 2500 + rpm.> Anyone have a similar
experience? Any idea of cause or how to repair.> > John Gunnell> PO Box 87>
Iola, WI 54945> 715-445-4262> gunnellj at athenet.net>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg-t at autox.team.net>
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http://www.team.net/archive
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From TATERRY at aol.com  Sun Jun 22 20:37:06 2008
From: TATERRY at aol.com (TATERRY at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 22:37:06 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems
Message-ID: <cac.34fd254c.35906652@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/22/2008 3:49:58 PM Pacific Standard Time, 
gunnellj at athenet.net writes:


> If I start car now, it will immediately race at 2500 + rpm.
> Anyone have a similar experience? Any idea of cause or how to repair.
> 

John, something is keeping your throttle from closing all the way...the choke 
is on or there is a massive air leak.
Terry in Oakland<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos 
for fuel-efficient used cars.<BR>      
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)</HTML>

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Jun 23 04:55:34 2008
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 06:55:34 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Two Problems
Message-ID: <20080623.065655.3748.3.MGBOB@juno.com>

John,
   Sorry to read of the troubles.
   I don't have experience with the rack troubles you experienced. Sorry,
no thoughts to offer.  Check diameters of the large end of MGB and TD
boots(gaiters). I think they are different.   May 2004 replaced gaiters
on my TD. May 2004 replaced gaiters on my TD.  Four years....
   At one of our CT Club tech sessions we found several SUs that were
stuck in various ways, thought to be from water/alcohol in the fuel.  The
jets were binding in jet glands of a couple of TDs, MGAs and MGBs,
causing the jets to stick down when choke cable was released.  On
another, the throttle shafts of both carbs were sticking. Owners said
they worked find when cars were put away in the autumn.  The brass bits
were mottled in color, as if water had been in contact with the brass. 
It's easy to understand how that could be the case with the jets, less so
to see how it would affect the throttles though.  
   Check that the pistons drop to the bridge with a click.  
Bob

On Sun, 22 Jun 2008 17:24:34 -0500 "John A. Gunnell"
<gunnellj at athenet.net> writes:
> All
> 
> This was a bad week. I "broke" two T Series. Need some feedback on 
> problems
> and solutions.
> 
> Drove MG TF about 500 mileson two trips. Last trip was 160 miles. 
> Everything
> OK. Stopped for lunch. Took off after lunch and steering had 
> tightened up
> tremendously. Could just about steer home. Took tie rod ends off. 
> Problem is
> in the rack. Bouth boots (gaitors) were not very old but both were 
> torn. I
> have since been told that boots being sold now are too short. Better 
> to use
> longer MGB boots with MG T clamps. So what is the quality of rack 
> rebuilding
> parts being sold today? Does anyone have experience? And would you 
> just buy
> all new parts or would you tear down, inspect, replace bad parts and 
> keep as
> many good old parts as possible?
> 
> Problem 2. With TF down, we took the well-worn TD out of mothballs 
> and drove
> it 20 miles to a club gathering. On way back (alone) we stopped to 
> top off the
> tank with high test (no ethonol). As soon as we left the filling 
> station, the
> engine started racing at 2,500 + rpm by itself. We worked it into 
> gear and
> limped home the 20 miles at 30 mph or better without ever touching 
> the
> accelerator. The choke cable and carb linkage all seemed to be OK in 
> a
> roadside check. If I start car now, it will immediately race at 2500 
> + rpm.
> Anyone have a similar experience? Any idea of cause or how to 
> repair.
> 
> John Gunnell
> PO Box 87
> Iola, WI 54945
> 715-445-4262
> gunnellj at athenet.net
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
> 
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> 
 
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From bobmgtd at comcast.net  Mon Jun 23 09:29:36 2008
From: bobmgtd at comcast.net (Bob Donahue)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 11:29:36 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <003e01c8d545$f299bb00$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>

Yes, the diode only lets the current flow one way. By using four diodes in 
what's called a "bridge configuration", the device can even work plugged in 
either way.

Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
               71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member:  NEMGTR #11470
               NAMGBR # 7-3336
               Hoosier MGB Club
               Olde Octagons of Indiana

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
To: <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"


> Bob,
>   Does the use of the diode mean that if the device works it's OK, and
> if it doesn't work there is no harm done -- just reverse the plug?
> Bob
>
> On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:43:37 -0400 "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
> writes:
>> A diode in series with one of the leads can protect the device
>> against
>> reverse polarity. I plan to put one in my "adapter".
>>
>> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
>> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
>> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
>> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>>                Hoosier MGB Club
>>                Olde Octagons of Indiana

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 23 10:02:04 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 11:02:04 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
In-Reply-To: <003e01c8d545$f299bb00$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
References: <20080618.122205.3956.29.MGBOB@juno.com>
	<003e01c8d545$f299bb00$6600a8c0@yourmb2swywknr>
Message-ID: <A553C5B3-689B-42EC-9AD1-482DB532FC14@sbcglobal.net>

I thought that just worked with AC to DC conversion because that is  
the example always given,  but as I look at the diagram, that is the  
best configuration given the diodes are cheap.....

For a hookup diagram go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diode_bridge




On Jun 23, 2008, at 10:29 AM, Bob Donahue wrote:

> Yes, the diode only lets the current flow one way. By using four  
> diodes in
> what's called a "bridge configuration", the device can even work  
> plugged in
> either way.
>
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>                Hoosier MGB Club
>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Howard" <mgbob at juno.com>
> To: <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
> Cc: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2008 12:18 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Plug for "Inspection Lamp Socket"
>
>
>> Bob,
>>   Does the use of the diode mean that if the device works it's OK,  
>> and
>> if it doesn't work there is no harm done -- just reverse the plug?
>> Bob
>>
>> On Wed, 18 Jun 2008 11:43:37 -0400 "Bob Donahue"  
>> <bobmgtd at comcast.net>
>> writes:
>>> A diode in series with one of the leads can protect the device
>>> against
>>> reverse polarity. I plan to put one in my "adapter".
>>>
>>> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
>>> Email - bobmgtd at comcast.net
>>> Cars:       52 MGTD - #17639
>>>                71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
>>> Member:  NEMGTR #11470
>>>                NAMGBR # 7-3336
>>>                Hoosier MGB Club
>>>                Olde Octagons of Indiana
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From dhhall at bellsouth.net  Sat Jun 28 11:03:07 2008
From: dhhall at bellsouth.net (dhhall at bellsouth.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 17:03:07 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] gas tank coating
Message-ID: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>

I would like to coat the inside of my MGTD gas tank with a protective coating (Red-Kote).  The tank seems to be segmented inside.   I'm not sure if I need to unscrew the plate on the lower back side to remove this.  Excuse my ignorance, but is this some sort of gas gauge sender?  If so, it certainly seems I should remove it.  Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance, David

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jun 28 11:10:16 2008
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 12:10:16 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] gas tank coating
In-Reply-To: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>
References: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>
Message-ID: <D22D5836-296E-40EF-9847-9C0DD6C843D2@sbcglobal.net>

It is all welded together and you cannot take it apart...The sender  
is the small plate on the back and it won't do any good to remove it  
other than protect it from the coating (if you need to)

You either have to fill it or take it off and slosh the fluid around  
to coat it.

Mike

On Jun 28, 2008, at 12:03 PM, dhhall at bellsouth.net wrote:

> I would like to coat the inside of my MGTD gas tank with a  
> protective coating (Red-Kote).  The tank seems to be segmented  
> inside.   I'm not sure if I need to unscrew the plate on the lower  
> back side to remove this.  Excuse my ignorance, but is this some  
> sort of gas gauge sender?  If so, it certainly seems I should  
> remove it.  Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance, David
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From hstrachman at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 28 13:13:47 2008
From: hstrachman at yahoo.com (herb strachman)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 12:13:47 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
Message-ID: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings,
 
  While trying to rewire my '53 TD, I was able to get my life side blinkers to
work but my right side are completely dead.  Any suggestions?
 
Thanks,
Herb

From jfischer at supercollider.com  Sat Jun 28 13:37:10 2008
From: jfischer at supercollider.com (James Fischer)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 15:37:10 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000101c8d956$5c3cc340$0201000a@j>

Check the wires running to the "control box" with care.
I remember that I had quite a time getting all the wires
to make good electrical contact with the screw-down contacts
when I installed a new harness.

> While trying to rewire my '53 TD, I was able to get my 
> life side blinkers to work but my right side are 
> completely dead.  Any suggestions?

From budkrueger at comcast.net  Sat Jun 28 14:31:40 2008
From: budkrueger at comcast.net (Bud Krueger)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 16:31:40 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] gas tank coating
In-Reply-To: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>
References: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>
Message-ID: <48669FAC.3000705@comcast.net>

dhhall at bellsouth.net wrote:
> I would like to coat the inside of my MGTD gas tank with a protective coating (Red-Kote).  The tank seems to be segmented inside.   I'm not sure if I need to unscrew the plate on the lower back side to remove this.  Excuse my ignorance, but is this some sort of gas gauge sender?  If so, it certainly seems I should remove it.  Any thoughts?  Thanks in advance, David
> _______________________________________________
>
>   
Yes, there are baffles welded in place inside of the tank.  Yes, you 
should remove the petrol level switch float.  Otherwise the coating will 
total mess it up.  If you insist upon coating the tank be certain that 
it is absolutely clean inside.  Be certain that the coating material can 
handle today's blended gasolines.

Bud Krueger

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Sat Jun 28 16:43:04 2008
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 17:43:04 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B0707518BDAF40E6BF43F46232B75CD5@roundabout.com>

Pop the cover on the turn signal relay and check the contacts. They often
become dirty or slightly bent.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of herb strachman
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 2:14 PM
To: Mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals

Greetings,
 
  While trying to rewire my '53 TD, I was able to get my life side blinkers
to
work but my right side are completely dead.  Any suggestions?
 
Thanks,
Herb
Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sun Jun 29 00:47:30 2008
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 23:47:30 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <000101c8d956$5c3cc340$0201000a@j>
References: <000101c8d956$5c3cc340$0201000a@j>
Message-ID: <48673002.70007@sinclair.net>

> I remember that I had quite a time getting all the wires to make good electrical contact with the screw-down contacts when I installed a new harness.
See the article, Electrical Connection Preparation in the Other Tech 
Articles on my Web site: http://homepages.donobi.net/sufuelpumps/  When 
putting this article together, I was working on a turn signal relay for 
a gentleman and use it for pictures of before and after on cleaning 
connection points and how to get the best connection.

Cheers,
Dave

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Sun Jun 29 07:43:05 2008
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 06:43:05 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <907a95545ccf88ff5809f083250df816@earthlink.net>

There is a site, Barney Jackson's MG With an Attitude, that covers 
among other things, all
electrical things on a MGA. Same turn signal relay box used with the TD 
and TF.
In depth operation coverage. Sounds like the contact on one of the 
relays is dirty.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 28, 2008, at 12:13 PM, herb strachman wrote:

> Greetings,
>
>   While trying to rewire my '53 TD, I was able to get my life side 
> blinkers to
> work but my right side are completely dead.  Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Herb
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Sun Jun 29 07:36:35 2008
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 06:36:35 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] gas tank coating
In-Reply-To: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>
References: <062820081703.21325.48666ECA000C5CA50000534D22230703729B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF04040E08080B@att.net>
Message-ID: <d6e95891f3973dd706a1e778008cd3aa@earthlink.net>

That is the sending unit for the low fuel warning lamp. It does not 
work if coated with something else.
If it has been in since car was new, then probably need a new one. So, 
go ahead, and slosh the inside
of the tank. Also, Bill Hirsch makes gas tank sloshing compounds. 
Original formula, and latest one for
fuels with alcohol in them.

To seal the new sending unit. Buy a new unit from Abingdon Spares. 
Theirs comes with a fiber washer set, that works much better than cork 
or rubber. If you have a new sending unit, and just need these gaskets, 
part no. is 19/157H.
Using a honing stone, hone flat both the flange on the tank, and the 
mating face on the sending unit. Purchase Yamabond #4 from a Yamaha 
dealer. Coat both sides of all gaskets, as well as the threads of the 
screws that you are going to install the unit with. You should end up 
with no leaks by doing this.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 28, 2008, at 10:03 AM, dhhall at bellsouth.net wrote:

> I would like to coat the inside of my MGTD gas tank with a protective 
> coating (Red-Kote).  The tank seems to be segmented inside.   I'm not 
> sure if I need to unscrew the plate on the lower back side to remove 
> this.  Excuse my ignorance, but is this some sort of gas gauge sender? 
>  If so, it certainly seems I should remove it.  Any thoughts?  Thanks 
> in advance, David
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From ddubois at sinclair.net  Sun Jun 29 12:06:13 2008
From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 11:06:13 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
In-Reply-To: <907a95545ccf88ff5809f083250df816@earthlink.net>
References: <821851.66929.qm@web32607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<907a95545ccf88ff5809f083250df816@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4867CF15.1000105@sinclair.net>

John,

> There is a site, Barney Jackson's MG With an Attitude
I believe that you are referring Barney Gaylord' site at: 
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/  Lots of good information on there that is 
applicable to the T series cars.

Cheers,
Dave

From redscirocco at hotmail.com  Sun Jun 29 18:58:33 2008
From: redscirocco at hotmail.com (Mike Eldred)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 20:58:33 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Temp gauge kaput
Message-ID: <BAY102-W4431120064F078CF5CA223B79F0@phx.gbl>

The temp gauge in my 1954 TF 1250 isn't working - I know I'll have to send it
out to be repaired, but does anyone have any thoughts on a temporary guage
solution?  I don't want to have to deadline it while the gauge is out.  I was
thinking of getting an aftermarket electrical gauge and sending unit for a
temporary setup, but I'm not sure what might fit.

Also, any recommendations on where to send the original unit for repair?

Cheers,
-Mike Eldred
Wilmington, VT

_________________________________________________________________
Enter the Zune-A-Day Giveaway for your chance to win  day after day after
day
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From kingseim at earthlink.net  Mon Jun 30 09:18:44 2008
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 08:18:44 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] Temp gauge kaput
In-Reply-To: <BAY102-W4431120064F078CF5CA223B79F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY102-W4431120064F078CF5CA223B79F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <c0b04839fc995110eea6461a0eaf0e02@earthlink.net>

APT Instruments (Charles)	
9632 Humbolt Ave. So.
Bloomington, MN 55431	
952-881-7095

MO-MA			
1321 2nd St. N.W.	
Albuquerque, N.M.		
505-766-6661
momanm at qwest.net

Nisonger Instrument		
570 Mamaroneck Ave.
Mamaroneck, N.Y.		
914-381-1952

West Valley Instruments	
19314 Van Owen Blvd.
Reseda, CA 91335		
818-758-9500

Vintage Restorations - John Marks	
The Old Bakery, Windmill Street,
Turnbridge Wells, Kent,
England TN2 4UU			
011-44-1892-525899
instruments at vintagerestorations.com

You could just plug off the opening. It is 3/8" british standard pipe 
parallel.
Or, a MGB combo gauge will work.

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Jun 29, 2008, at 5:58 PM, Mike Eldred wrote:

> The temp gauge in my 1954 TF 1250 isn't working - I know I'll have to 
> send it
> out to be repaired, but does anyone have any thoughts on a temporary 
> guage
> solution?  I don't want to have to deadline it while the gauge is out. 
>  I was
> thinking of getting an aftermarket electrical gauge and sending unit 
> for a
> temporary setup, but I'm not sure what might fit.
>
> Also, any recommendations on where to send the original unit for 
> repair?
>
> Cheers,
> -Mike Eldred
> Wilmington, VT
>
> _________________________________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From hstrachman at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 30 19:07:28 2008
From: hstrachman at yahoo.com (herb strachman)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 18:07:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
Message-ID: <680280.1421.qm@web32603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thanks to all who replied to my question about the turn signals.  It was the
contacts in the relay box.
 
Thanks,
 
Herb

--- On Sun, 6/29/08, Dave and Liz DuBois <ddubois at sinclair.net> wrote:

From: Dave and Liz DuBois <ddubois at sinclair.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Turn Signals
To: "John Seim" <kingseim at earthlink.net>
Cc: hstrachman at yahoo.com, Mg-t at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, June 29, 2008, 2:06 PM

John,

> There is a site, Barney Jackson's MG With an Attitude
I believe that you are referring Barney Gaylord' site at:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/  Lots of good information on there that is
applicable to the T series cars.

Cheers,
Dave