From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com Mon Sep 17 15:53:20 2007 From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 17:53:20 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] test Message-ID: <004001c7f975$29cd9fe0$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> ok reregistered...hope fully it works. From mjb at autox.team.net Mon Sep 17 16:01:58 2007 From: mjb at autox.team.net (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 16:01:58 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [Mg-t] List stuff Message-ID: <20070917220158.D042C187AAB@autox.team.net> In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list you already receive, I've switched mg-t at autox.team.net from majordomo to mailman list management software. Some things will be different, some will be the same. As before, if you want to send mail to mg-t at autox.team.net you send mail to mg-t at autox.team.net - you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out! With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly. You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with your settings. One change that may be of little value for a list with such limited traffic is a digest option. Basically that just holds the list messages until the collection reaches a certain size or age, and then sends out the individual messages in a single compliation email. Useful on busy lists like mgs or triumphs, which see dozens of messages per day, of limited value on a quieter list such as this. So you can go to the list info pages referenced in that introductory mail, as well as the bottom of each message, and set your preferences to regular or digest mode. Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature. If you are going to be away from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and then back to regular delivery upon your return. A bit easier than having to unsubscribe and then subscribe again. A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions from multiple addresses. For example, one might want to subscribe a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address. But sometimes you send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com and set the second address to nomail. So messages you send from either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple copies of each list message. RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various differences and features. In truth I was just going to remove Blake Urban's address from the list, and decided to go ahead and switch. Eventually all the Team.Net lists will be under mailman, it is taking me quite a while to actually get around to getting it done. mjb. From mmmgtcars at yahoo.com Mon Sep 17 16:10:59 2007 From: mmmgtcars at yahoo.com (Mick Conde) Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2007 15:10:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [Mg-t] MG T-list Message-ID: <826736.54101.qm@web56701.mail.re3.yahoo.com> I thought I had already submitted but very few emails. Mick Keystone Classic Cars LTD. --------------------------------- Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for today's economy) at Yahoo! Games. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of 000 keystone business card.jpg] From mgbob at juno.com Wed Sep 19 07:53:28 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 09:53:28 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD oil leak Message-ID: <20070919.095617.3544.17.MGBOB@juno.com> Mike, Have you checked that all pan bolts are snug? They have been known to loosen, since we are all so careful to avoid over-tightening. Drips from a leaking horizontal oil filter can blow back to the rear plate when driving, giving the impression that it's the pan or the rear seal at fault. A pin-hole leak in flex line to the oil gauge can blow out a surprising amount of oil too, and the leak is difficult to see as it's the size of a thread of spider web. One club member's engine made impressive puddles until we found at his shop had omitted copper washer on the block side of the banjo connection. Changing oil shouldn't matter much. 30w when hot is probably a bit thinner than 20-50 when hot, but it's not viscosity of the oil that is cause of the leaking. Until you figure it out, a drip pan with kitty litter may be helpful. Those sold as trays for shoes and boots will fit between TD wheels, as will some of the pans sold at pet stores for rabbit cages. Bob On Sun, 16 Sep 2007 19:45:57 -0500 Mike Duvall writes: > My MG TD had the typical drip when you shut if off but recently the > > puddle has grown quite large. It is dripping when I drive and it > rolls out pretty good when you shut it off resulting in an 18" spill > underneath after the puddle soaks in. I am somewhat concerned that > it suddenly is leaking more than before. > Should I be using 30 weight oil instead of a multiweight? Could > lightweight oil drip worse than thicker oil? What would cause a > change? There is a pretty good layer of gray form-a-gasket on the > pan with only a few thousand miles since a rebuild. > > Any suggestions? From simbafish at comcast.net Sun Sep 30 10:52:59 2007 From: simbafish at comcast.net (Stuart C. Keen, Jr.) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:52:59 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Installing a Hood Message-ID: In the process of installing a new hood (convertible top) on my TD, I've reached an impasse as to getting a stapler to work. The removed hood (installed around 1980) was secured with copper wire staples approx 0.5 inches long and 5/16 inch wide. Very thin. The closest I can find locally are Arrow T20 staples (0.5 inch long and 5/16 inch wide). However they are MUCH thicker (not wire thin) and with the manual gun from Home Depot, just will not satisfactorily penetrate the front wood bow of the hood. It is very hard, probably ash. Shorter T20 stapes were not available from Home Depot, Lowes or ACE. I then tried the wider T50 Arrow staples (3/8" wide). Tried lengths of 1/4, 3/8. 1/2 inches. Tried a manual and a heavy duty electric gun, but noting seems to penetrate the ash without folding or sticking out of the wood. The Arrow staples are just too thick to penetrate the wood. What staples and staple gun is recommended, as used by others installing a new hood? I think the old wire thin staples I pulled out probably penetrate the wood easier, but I am unable to locate a similar product. Thanks for advise and any suggestions. Stu Keen 1951 MGTD Mark II From RBHouston at aol.com Sun Sep 30 15:56:03 2007 From: RBHouston at aol.com (RBHouston at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 17:56:03 EDT Subject: [Mg-t] Installing a Hood Message-ID: In a message dated 9/30/2007 10:55:47 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, simbafish at comcast.net writes: What staples and staple gun is recommended, as used by others installing a new hood? I think the old wire thin staples I pulled out probably penetrate the wood easier, but I am unable to locate a similar product. Thanks for advise and any suggestions. Wish I had a TD and experience there, but I just put up Armstorng ceiling tile on an OSB ceiling at my cabin and used a Harbor Freight air stapler...under $20 on sale, and 3/8 by 1/2 inch staples. Depending on where you set the compressor it will drive them flush with no problem. Best $20 I've spent in years. Robert Houston Texan in NM >From my motherbs sleep I fell into the State, And I hunched in its belly till my wet fur froze. Six miles from earth, loosed from its dream of life, I woke to black flak and the nightmare fighters. When I died they washed me out of the turret with a hose. The Death of the Ball Turret Gunner Randall Jarrell ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 30 17:30:54 2007 From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 19:30:54 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] td head Message-ID: <000801c803b9$f2198150$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> hello folks does anyone know of the compatability of a newer version head (has round water jacket holes) with mating it to an engine block of older vintage that has the bannana shaped water jacket holes. I have had nothing but problems trying to get a head gasket to seal the two different shapes and have broken a piston ring due to water leak/cylinder lock...what a nightmare!! Any thoughts are appreciated. thanks rock From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca Sun Sep 30 18:27:32 2007 From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (Bob Grunau) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 20:27:32 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] td head In-Reply-To: <000801c803b9$f2198150$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> Message-ID: Rocky, There should be no problem, but you MUST use an early banana shaped gasket to seal the water holes. Anytime you have a mis-matched block and head, either way, use a banana head gasket. The round hole head gasket does not seal off the water holes when you have banana and round hole combination of components. Regards, Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of KRISLYN COMPANY Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:31 PM To: mg-t at autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] td head hello folks does anyone know of the compatability of a newer version head (has round water jacket holes) with mating it to an engine block of older vintage that has the bannana shaped water jacket holes. I have had nothing but problems trying to get a head gasket to seal the two different shapes and have broken a piston ring due to water leak/cylinder lock...what a nightmare!! Any thoughts are appreciated. thanks rock _______________________________________________ grunau.garage at sympatico.ca Mg-t at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com Sun Sep 30 20:00:38 2007 From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:00:38 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] more td head questions Message-ID: <002b01c803ce$dd471a70$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> hello again was talking with a gent from new england area that rebuilds TD's etc and he indicated that there was a higher tensil set of head bolts made that allow higher torquing of the head bolts thus perhaps better head to block fittment... both surfaces have been machined by a qualififed machinist as flat,, yet I have had trouble (4 gaskets to date fit and failed) ...does anyone know of these "stronger" bolts availability? thanks again rocky From mgcharlie at comcast.net Sun Sep 30 20:34:17 2007 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:34:17 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] Installing a Hood In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47005CA9.4020304@comcast.net> Stu, When I installed my current top back in 1970, I used upholstery tacks, installed by hand with an upholstery hammer. It has held up quite well. I have a friend who has a TD with 28,000 miles on it with original paint, seats, carpet, and top. With this email, I'm also contacting him and asking if he can determine how the top is attached to the front bow. I was looking at his car yesterday and saw that at the rear it was attached with brass slotted screws in brass finishing washers. This surprised me a bit. Charlie PS Bob, please reply to all of the recipients that I sent this to. Thanks. Stuart C. Keen, Jr. wrote: >In the process of installing a new hood (convertible top) on my TD, I've >reached an impasse as to getting a stapler to work. The removed hood >(installed around 1980) was secured with copper wire staples approx 0.5 >inches long and 5/16 inch wide. Very thin. The closest I can find locally >are Arrow T20 staples (0.5 inch long and 5/16 inch wide). However they are >MUCH thicker (not wire thin) and with the manual gun from Home Depot, just >will not satisfactorily penetrate the front wood bow of the hood. It is very >hard, probably ash. Shorter T20 stapes were not available from Home Depot, >Lowes or ACE. I then tried the wider T50 Arrow staples (3/8" wide). Tried >lengths of 1/4, 3/8. 1/2 inches. Tried a manual and a heavy duty electric >gun, but noting seems to penetrate the ash without folding or sticking out >of the wood. The Arrow staples are just too thick to penetrate the wood. >What staples and staple gun is recommended, as used by others installing a >new hood? I think the old wire thin staples I pulled out probably penetrate >the wood easier, but I am unable to locate a similar product. > >Thanks for advise and any suggestions. > >Stu Keen >1951 MGTD Mark II >_______________________________________________ >mgcharlie at comcast.net > >Mg-t at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > >Archives at http://www.team.net/archive