From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Oct  1 07:18:52 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 09:18:52 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Installing a Hood
Message-ID: <20071001.094545.3572.1.MGBOB@juno.com>

Hi Stu,
   The front bow is probably ash, a wood that is easy enough to work with
when recently cut, but one that becomes harder over time.  My memory is
that the canvas was originally tacked (not stapled) to the bow.  
    If you cannot find a staple that will do, you might consider tacking,
though I expect that you will need to drill a tiny pilot hole for each
tack to avoid splitting the wood.
Bob
 
On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 12:52:59 -0400 "Stuart  C. Keen, Jr."
<simbafish at comcast.net> writes:
> In the process of installing a new hood (convertible top) on my TD, 

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Oct  1 10:54:48 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 12:54:48 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] more td head questions
Message-ID: <20071001.125448.3572.10.MGBOB@juno.com>

Check with Advanced Performance Technology, Riverside CA,  951-686-0260.
They carry 190,000 psi studs for the B series engine, and might have for
XPAG also.
Bob
 
On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:00:38 -0400 "KRISLYN COMPANY"
<KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> writes:
> hello again
> was talking with a gent from new england area that rebuilds TD's etc 
> and he
> indicated that there was a higher tensil set of head bolts made that 
> allow
> higher torquing of the head bolts thus perhaps better head to block
> fittment...  both surfaces have been machined by a qualififed 
> machinist as
> flat,,  yet I have had trouble (4 gaskets to date fit and failed) 
> ...does
> anyone know of these "stronger" bolts availability?
> thanks again
> rocky

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Mon Oct  1 11:22:47 2007
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (Bob Grunau)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 13:22:47 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] more td head questions
In-Reply-To: <20071001.125448.3572.10.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP02ABFBD4AA375C730B508192AD0@CEZ.ICE>

Ok, but remember the MG "B" series engines are NF threads.
XPAG is metric 10 x 1.5 mm head stud.

In my experience, there is nothing wrong with original head studs with nuts
torqued to 50 ft-lbs for a cast iron head.
My TC race engine has an aluminum Lucas Laystall head and the nuts are
torqued to 42 Ft-lbs.
I doubt stronger head studs are necessary or even desireable, you might just
bust something else??

So far, I have never had a head gasket failure with either cast iron or
aluminum heads. I think there is something else wrong.
Good luck sorting it out. .
Bob Grunau

Check with Advanced Performance Technology, Riverside CA,  951-686-0260.
They carry 190,000 psi studs for the B series engine, and might have for
XPAG also.
Bob

On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:00:38 -0400 "KRISLYN COMPANY"
<KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> writes:
> hello again
> was talking with a gent from new england area that rebuilds TD's etc
> and he
> indicated that there was a higher tensil set of head bolts made that
> allow
> higher torquing of the head bolts thus perhaps better head to block
> fittment...  both surfaces have been machined by a qualififed
> machinist as
> flat,,  yet I have had trouble (4 gaskets to date fit and failed)
> ...does
> anyone know of these "stronger" bolts availability?
> thanks again
> rocky
__

From ursula_greg at msn.com  Mon Oct  1 12:24:45 2007
From: ursula_greg at msn.com (Ursula and Greg Hoeft)
Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2007 18:24:45 +0000
Subject: [Mg-t] td head
In-Reply-To: <BAYC1-PASMTP09F60A0A95B0FD508F852892AD0@CEZ.ICE>
Message-ID: <BAY102-F34FF63FF1FF15CAA16E55A81AD0@phx.gbl>

Bob,

Do you recommend using a sealant when fitting an XPAG head?

Greg Hoeft



>From: "Bob Grunau" <grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>
>To: "KRISLYN COMPANY" <KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com>,  
><mg-t at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Mg-t] td head
>Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2007 20:27:32 -0400
>
>Rocky,
>There should be no problem, but you MUST use an early banana shaped gasket
>to seal the water holes. Anytime you have a mis-matched block and head,
>either way, use a banana head gasket. The round hole head gasket does not
>seal off the water holes when you have banana and round hole combination of
>components.
>Regards, Bob Grunau
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net
>[mailto:mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net]On Behalf
>Of KRISLYN COMPANY
>Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:31 PM
>To: mg-t at autox.team.net
>Subject: [Mg-t] td head
>
>
>hello folks
>does anyone know of the compatability of a newer version head (has round
>water
>jacket holes) with mating it to an engine block of older vintage that has
>the
>bannana shaped water jacket holes. I have had nothing but problems trying 
>to
>get a head gasket to seal the two different shapes and have broken a piston
>ring due to water leak/cylinder lock...what a nightmare!!  Any thoughts are
>appreciated.
>
>thanks
>rock
>_______________________________________________
>grunau.garage at sympatico.ca
>
>Mg-t at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
>Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>_______________________________________________
>ursula_greg at msn.com
>
>Mg-t at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
>Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From kingseim at earthlink.net  Mon Oct  1 14:20:04 2007
From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 13:20:04 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] more td head questions
Message-ID: <4a6cce1c38520e1bfd43f7a090654d36@earthlink.net>

I agree with Bob. I have never heard of extra strength head studs.
I don't reuse them, as they stretch. All head studs stretch, and should 
be
replaced when building an engine.

Some other cause can lead to blowing head gaskets. If one carb is rich, 
and
the other lean, that makes one side cooler than the other, one expands 
differently
than the other. Or, some other flow obstruction, on either the intake 
or exhaust side.

Are you checking the head and block to verify that they are both flat 
and level?
After each gasket failure?

John Seim
Irvine, CA

On Oct 1, 2007, at 10:22 AM, Bob Grunau wrote:

> Ok, but remember the MG "B" series engines are NF threads.
> XPAG is metric 10 x 1.5 mm head stud.
>
> In my experience, there is nothing wrong with original head studs with 
> nuts
> torqued to 50 ft-lbs for a cast iron head.
> My TC race engine has an aluminum Lucas Laystall head and the nuts are
> torqued to 42 Ft-lbs.
> I doubt stronger head studs are necessary or even desireable, you 
> might just
> bust something else??
>
> So far, I have never had a head gasket failure with either cast iron or
> aluminum heads. I think there is something else wrong.
> Good luck sorting it out. .
> Bob Grunau
>
> Check with Advanced Performance Technology, Riverside CA,  
> 951-686-0260.
> They carry 190,000 psi studs for the B series engine, and might have 
> for
> XPAG also.
> Bob
>
> On Sun, 30 Sep 2007 22:00:38 -0400 "KRISLYN COMPANY"
> <KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> writes:
>> hello again
>> was talking with a gent from new england area that rebuilds TD's etc
>> and he
>> indicated that there was a higher tensil set of head bolts made that
>> allow
>> higher torquing of the head bolts thus perhaps better head to block
>> fittment...  both surfaces have been machined by a qualififed
>> machinist as
>> flat,,  yet I have had trouble (4 gaskets to date fit and failed)
>> ...does
>> anyone know of these "stronger" bolts availability?
>> thanks again
>> rocky
> __
> _______________________________________________
> kingseim at earthlink.net
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com  Mon Oct  1 18:39:55 2007
From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 20:39:55 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] xpag block question
Message-ID: <000801c8048c$c2d15390$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>

how far (large of diameter) am i able to bore the block to sleeve it?  It is
already has 100 over pistons in it and one cylinder wall has suffered
significant damage from a broken ring due to water lock ... I am afarid to
bore it and penetrate the water jacket in order to install a sleeve and then
bore the sleeve to 100 over as are the rest of the pistons in the block.

The other thought is,, does anyone have say one 110 over (if any such is
available) or a 120 over piston they could spare and I can balance the one  to
match the other three 100 overs and then just minimal boring would be required
without damage to the block as the other three are fine??

Thanks as always
Rock

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Mon Oct  1 21:14:22 2007
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (Bob Grunau)
Date: Mon, 1 Oct 2007 23:14:22 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] td head
In-Reply-To: <BAY102-F34FF63FF1FF15CAA16E55A81AD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP05CF9D701F8B1E4357249C92AE0@CEZ.ICE>

Greg,
I don't use a sealant and I don't think you need one.
However, I did use copper Never Seize on my aluminum head and studs to try
to keep the corrosion down on the studs.
 Bob
Bob,

Do you recommend using a sealant when fitting an XPAG head?

Greg Hoeft

>Rocky,
>There should be no problem, but you MUST use an early banana shaped gasket
>to seal the water holes. Anytime you have a mis-matched block and head,
>either way, use a banana head gasket. The round hole head gasket does not
>seal off the water holes when you have banana and round hole combination of
>components.
>Regards, Bob Grunau
>
>
>hello folks
>does anyone know of the compatability of a newer version head (has round
>water
>jacket holes) with mating it to an engine block of older vintage that has
>the
>bannana shaped water jacket holes. I have had nothing but problems trying
>to
>get a head gasket to seal the two different shapes and have broken a piston
>ring due to water leak/cylinder lock...what a nightmare!!  Any thoughts are
>appreciated.
>
>thanks
>rock

From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz  Mon Oct  1 23:04:25 2007
From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 17:04:25 +1200
Subject: [Mg-t] xpag block question
Message-ID: <0888574CFACE3D4CB359CDCF21585B50280E3B@NFSVR01.neurological.local>

Hi Rocky

I have a couple of old pistons marked + 020.

According to the US Moss catalog I have plus 020  and plus 120 pistons
are both marked + 020 (perhaps there is a point in front of the 020 on
the plus 20 pistons?). Measuring the diameter at the bottom of the
piston with an electronic caliper it comes out at 2.630" - I don't know
what the diameter of a std piston is. The Satdard bore is 2.618"

If one of these will work for you let me know and I'll post it over.

Cheers

Douglas

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+douglas.ormrod=neurological.org.nz at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+douglas.ormrod=neurological.org.nz at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of KRISLYN COMPANY
Sent: Tuesday, 2 October 2007 1:40 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] xpag block question

how far (large of diameter) am i able to bore the block to sleeve it?
It is
already has 100 over pistons in it and one cylinder wall has suffered
significant damage from a broken ring due to water lock ... I am afarid
to
bore it and penetrate the water jacket in order to install a sleeve and
then
bore the sleeve to 100 over as are the rest of the pistons in the block.

The other thought is,, does anyone have say one 110 over (if any such is
available) or a 120 over piston they could spare and I can balance the
one  to
match the other three 100 overs and then just minimal boring would be
required
without damage to the block as the other three are fine??

Thanks as always
Rock
_______________________________________________
douglas.ormrod at neurological.org.nz

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From JVK52TD at aol.com  Tue Oct  2 20:12:49 2007
From: JVK52TD at aol.com (JVK52TD at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Oct 2007 22:12:49 EDT
Subject: [Mg-t] Ledderman Rupp
Message-ID: <cad.1a4db605.343454a1@aol.com>

Hi Mg - Team,
 
Does anyone on the list know where Larry Rupp (Ledderman Rupp) is now  at ??? 
 I have tried calling his home number and it has been  disconnected.  I 
called his community gate personnel and was told that they  moved and no forwarding 
address.  I know he has 2 sons although I do not  know how to contact them ?? 
 Any information would be appreciated.   You may mail me direct at   
_jvk52td at aol.com_ (mailto:jvk52td at aol.com) 
 
Thanks,
 
John Kinney in Illinois
 



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

From spook01 at comcast.net  Wed Oct  3 17:57:49 2007
From: spook01 at comcast.net (spook01)
Date: Wed, 3 Oct 2007 18:57:49 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] Ledderman Rupp
References: <cad.1a4db605.343454a1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <005901c80619$341e9e30$6401a8c0@yourpd3mh0abgs>

I last saw Larry about 3 years ago at a car show.  I heard he had retired to 
NM.  He had good stuff.
Best,
Ray

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <JVK52TD at aol.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] Ledderman Rupp


> Hi Mg - Team,
>
> Does anyone on the list know where Larry Rupp (Ledderman Rupp) is now  at 
> ???
> I have tried calling his home number and it has been  disconnected.  I
> called his community gate personnel and was told that they  moved and no 
> forwarding
> address.  I know he has 2 sons although I do not  know how to contact them 
> ??
> Any information would be appreciated.   You may mail me direct at
> _jvk52td at aol.com_ (mailto:jvk52td at aol.com)
>
> Thanks,
>
> John Kinney in Illinois
>
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's new at 
> http://www.aol.com
> _______________________________________________
> spook01 at comcast.net
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive 

From nels at flightsim.com  Fri Oct  5 13:48:46 2007
From: nels at flightsim.com (Nels Anderson)
Date: Fri, 05 Oct 2007 15:48:46 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Boston Area MG Club British Car Show This Saturday
Message-ID: <4706951E.3010905@flightsim.com>

I'd like to invite all British car owners within driving distance of the
SE Massachusetts area to attend the upcoming British car show that my MG
club is holding this Saturday.

The date is October 6 and the location is at the Edaville Railroad in
Carver, Massachusetts. Show admission includes two tickets for the train
ride as well as admission to the Cranberry Festival that is also being
held there as well as the rest of the grounds which includes a cranberry
museum, food vendors, etc.

Full details can be found on the club web site here:

www.bostonareamg.com

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Oct  9 10:25:25 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 12:25:25 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] [Healeys] 62bt7
References: <000401c80a8a$5a54f160$a5c264d0@userch6dgy3z1d>
Message-ID: <000601c80a90$ffe53940$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

Could be either- There is a fine wire mesh screen on the fitting that is 
screwed into the tank which your gas line attaches-
The tank is vented through the fuel filler cap. Easy to eliminate by leaving 
in the unlatch position for a drive.
I'll bet on the screen on the fitting in the tank- especially if you have 
had to use any of the new blended fuel.

Dallas


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kurt Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:37 AM
Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7


>I restored a 62bt7 about 3 years ago, quick kote was put into the gas
> tank and except for rebuilding the fuel pump(original) due to new fuel
> addatives, the car has run fine, except as of late, I loose fuel flow
> from the tank, I have drained and flushed the tank several times, and
> regularly change the fuel filter, installed between the tank and the
> pump, but if the car sits for any length of time I get about 5 miles
> down the road and loose fuel. Removing the filter and blowing back into
> the tank with the gas cap off solves the problem instantly. Is there a
> fuel screen inside the tank? Or is the tank not properly vented?   Kurt

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 12:32:26 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 13:32:26 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD transmission question continued.
Message-ID: <9456904F-23EB-4831-B45C-41EF6CD5AB38@sbcglobal.net>

Can anyone with an early TD transmission send me the dimension for  
how far the 3rd/4th selector shaft extends from the selector?   Mine  
is 7/16th and I think that is an incorrect amount.  The early  
transmission did not have a shaft that ran into the remote housing.    
I think someone took a later shaft cut it off and got the length wrong.

I can send a picture if you need it.

thanks,  MIke

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Wed Oct 10 17:22:16 2007
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:22:16 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD transmission question continued.
In-Reply-To: <9456904F-23EB-4831-B45C-41EF6CD5AB38@sbcglobal.net>
References: <9456904F-23EB-4831-B45C-41EF6CD5AB38@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <89108A949A0745808CAE12264BF2ACE6@roundabout.com>

Mike, I believe you are correct. I just had my TD's (TD3042) gearbox out
this past spring and do not recall that the shaft extended any significant
distance into the rear housing. It's back in the car and I'm not looking
forward to having to remove it again, although a replacement of the shifting
forks and sliding hubs is in its future - very near future.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

P.S. How are the wiper parts working out? 

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Mike Duvall
Sent: Wednesday, October 10, 2007 1:32 PM
To: MGtseriesowners at yahoogroups.com; mg-t at autox.team.net; MG_TABC; mgs;
british-cars at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] TD transmission question continued.

Can anyone with an early TD transmission send me the dimension for  
how far the 3rd/4th selector shaft extends from the selector?   Mine  
is 7/16th and I think that is an incorrect amount.  The early  
transmission did not have a shaft that ran into the remote housing.    
I think someone took a later shaft cut it off and got the length wrong.

I can send a picture if you need it.

thanks,  MIke
_______________________________________________
lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 17:28:10 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:28:10 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD carpet question
Message-ID: <FA9B2C66-099C-489A-912B-D3D1175618B1@sbcglobal.net>

A few years ago I put Moss rag carpet in my TD.  I noticed at a show  
that someone else's rag carpet is trimmed to fit better.   I'm  
guessing Moss supplies it bigger but does anyone have details on how  
the carpet originally fit from the factory?   Was it a little big and  
just overlapped or was it trimmed up perfectly.

Mike

From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 10 17:30:11 2007
From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:30:11 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD transmission problem solved
Message-ID: <9A63FE39-8F15-4A75-A4BD-CA87C9C28B12@sbcglobal.net>

Thanks all who replied to my questions about the TD transmission.   I  
love the information readily at hand from belonging to these groups  
and  I did figure out what was going on.

The early TD transmission had a in the shift lever housing with a  
stop for the 3rd/4th shifter shaft at the rear,  the while the later  
TD had a hole with a bearing for greater support with a longer shaft  
instead of the stop.  They added a circlip to the opposite end of the  
shaft to prevent the 3rd/4th shifter shaft from overshooting in 3rd  
since a stop was no longer present.

judging from the marks at the end of the shaft, whoever worked on the  
transmission last, took a later shaft and cut it down to fit except  
they left the shaft about 3/16" too long which didn't allow the lever  
to move completely into third.

I whipped out my metal cutter and took off 3"16 from the end of the  
shaft  and it shifts perfectly.

Mike

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Oct  9 11:46:58 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 9 Oct 2007 13:46:58 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] [Healeys] 62bt7
Message-ID: <005201c80a9c$64312f20$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

OOPs- thought this was a MG T Series tank, as it was on the MG-T list  ;>(

Dallas


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dallas Congleton" <dcongleton at embarqmail.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>; "Kurt Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 62bt7


> Could be either- There is a fine wire mesh screen on the fitting that is 
> screwed into the tank which your gas line attaches-
> The tank is vented through the fuel filler cap. Easy to eliminate by 
> leaving in the unlatch position for a drive.
> I'll bet on the screen on the fitting in the tank- especially if you have 
> had to use any of the new blended fuel.
>
> Dallas
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Kurt Leslie" <kansl at net1plus.com>
> To: <healeys at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 09, 2007 11:37 AM
> Subject: [Healeys] 62bt7
>
>
>>I restored a 62bt7 about 3 years ago, quick kote was put into the gas
>> tank and except for rebuilding the fuel pump(original) due to new fuel
>> addatives, the car has run fine, except as of late, I loose fuel flow
>> from the tank, I have drained and flushed the tank several times, and
>> regularly change the fuel filter, installed between the tank and the
>> pump, but if the car sits for any length of time I get about 5 miles
>> down the road and loose fuel. Removing the filter and blowing back into
>> the tank with the gas cap off solves the problem instantly. Is there a
>> fuel screen inside the tank? Or is the tank not properly vented?   Kurt

From mgbob at juno.com  Thu Oct 11 08:31:05 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Thu, 11 Oct 2007 10:31:05 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TD carpet question
Message-ID: <20071011.112640.3152.2.MGBOB@juno.com>

  The well-worn and moth-eaten original carpet in my TD still fit
perfectly when I replaced it with Moss carpeting.  It was trimmed to fit
exactly.
Bob
 
On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:28:10 -0500 Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> A few years ago I put Moss rag carpet in my TD.  I noticed at a show  
> 
> that someone else's rag carpet is trimmed to fit better.   I'm  
> guessing Moss supplies it bigger but does anyone have details on how 
>  
> the carpet originally fit from the factory?   Was it a little big 
> and  
> just overlapped or was it trimmed up perfectly.
> 
> Mike

From duvallvideo at mac.com  Wed Oct 10 16:23:52 2007
From: duvallvideo at mac.com (Duvall Mike)
Date: Wed, 10 Oct 2007 17:23:52 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] TD transmission question solved
Message-ID: <A9002E9D-F7C9-48CB-8FA5-7774B08E0A24@mac.com>

Thanks all who replied to my questions about the TD transmission.   I  
love the information readily at hand from belonging to these groups  
and  I did figure out what was going on.

The early TD transmission had a in the shift lever housing with a  
stop for the 3rd/4th shifter shaft at the rear,  the while the later  
TD had a hole with a bearing for greater support with a longer shaft  
instead of the stop.  They added a circlip to the opposite end of the  
shaft to prevent the 3rd/4th shifter shaft from overshooting in 3rd  
since a stop was no longer present.

judging from the marks at the end of the shaft, whoever worked on the  
transmission last, took a later shaft and cut it down to fit except  
they left the shaft about 3/16" too long which didn't allow the lever  
to move completely into third.

I whipped out my metal cutter and took off 3"16 from the end of the  
shaft  and it shifts perfectly.

Mike

From FPrecht at frostburg.edu  Mon Oct 15 13:15:56 2007
From: FPrecht at frostburg.edu (Francis Precht)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 15:15:56 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD gas tank supports
Message-ID: <B6DDC4CB1E910A4F9E89ED24480020900154307B@EMPLOYEEMAIL.frostburg.edu>

I'd like to mount the wedge-shaped supports to the rear tank board on my TD
(back of the body tub), but my basket case did not come with an old board from
which I could measure the proper location.  Replacement board came with no
holes or indications of where the supports should go.  I would guess that the
most critical measurement would be spacing from the top/bottom since this
would determine the resulting space between the top of the tank and the rear
of the body tub.  I would guess that maybe the supports are aligned with the
tank straps, but that's just a rough guess.

Could someone please measure either to the edge of the flange or the location
of the mounting holes for me??  Inside the boot area or outside measurements
would be great.  I know that out there somewhere, someone either doesn't have
their interior completely installed or has their gas tank off the car.

From imoz at columbus.rr.com  Mon Oct 15 16:54:34 2007
From: imoz at columbus.rr.com (Dan)
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 18:54:34 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] TD carpet question
In-Reply-To: <20071011.112640.3152.2.MGBOB@juno.com>
Message-ID: <200710152254.l9FMsYjj001722@ms-smtp-01.ohiordc.rr.com>

Mike, 

I agree.  My TF carpet came out recently enough, and it fit precisely.  The
edges are not bound, just cut.  

- Dan
54 TF


-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+imoz=columbus.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+imoz=columbus.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Howard
Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2007 10:31 AM
To: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net
Cc: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] TD carpet question

  The well-worn and moth-eaten original carpet in my TD still fit
perfectly when I replaced it with Moss carpeting.  It was trimmed to fit
exactly.
Bob
 
On Wed, 10 Oct 2007 18:28:10 -0500 Mike Duvall <duvallcom at sbcglobal.net>
writes:
> A few years ago I put Moss rag carpet in my TD.  I noticed at a show  
> 
> that someone else's rag carpet is trimmed to fit better.   I'm  
> guessing Moss supplies it bigger but does anyone have details on how 
>  
> the carpet originally fit from the factory?   Was it a little big 
> and  
> just overlapped or was it trimmed up perfectly.
> 
> Mike
_______________________________________________
imoz at columbus.rr.com

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From scvc70 at epix.net  Wed Oct 17 10:27:25 2007
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 12:27:25 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: [Healeys] ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!
Message-ID: <00d701c810dd$98057350$231a4ad1@S0026273562>

I know the person from whom these parts were stolen, and thought I'd forward 
this message to both MG lists.  His loss cannot be measured in dollars 
alone--I know he has spent years acquiring some of these things from 
England.  Keep your collective eyes open!


Sarah Carr
TD3942ELXU in PA
PA0935 in PA



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tracy Drummond" <bighealey at charter.net>
To: "Healey List" <healeys at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2007 11:36 PM
Subject: [Healeys] ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!


> ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!
>
>
>
> One of an MG club's most dedicated members had one of his business in
> Detroit broken into while he was away. They smashed down an access door,
> then used his MGB to batter their way into the main plant and steal 
> anything
> copper, brass or aluminum.
>
>
>
> What they got away with were some priceless parts. Gone were TD, TF, TC, 
> TA
> and SA radiators, all of the aluminum SU carbs and manifolds for the SA, 
> the
> MGB and 6000 lbs of aluminum. Many of these parts are irreplaceable,
> especially the pre-war items.
>
>
>
> Most likely they have been sold for scrap, but keep an eye out anyway. If
> you see any of these items showing up in classifieds, on eBay or anywhere
> else, please post a message.
>
>
>
> Click the link below for more details or to report any possible leads:
>
>
>
> http://www.socalbritishmotoring.com/viewtopic.php?t=342
>
>
>
>
>
> Tracy Drummond                  Gang Warily !
>
> President AHCUSA              www.healey.org

From leylandauto at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 17 11:03:21 2007
From: leylandauto at yahoo.com (Carl French)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 10:03:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: [Healeys] ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!
In-Reply-To: <00d701c810dd$98057350$231a4ad1@S0026273562>
Message-ID: <908554.7896.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Really sad considering they will just melt it down. He needs to call/visit EVERY scrap yard in the area and offer them double what they will get for the stuff. It will be a bargain and he may get some of the stuff back.
  Carl

Carr&Edwards <scvc70 at epix.net> wrote:
  I know the person from whom these parts were stolen, and thought I'd forward 
this message to both MG lists. His loss cannot be measured in dollars 
alone--I know he has spent years acquiring some of these things from 
England. Keep your collective eyes open!


Sarah Carr
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

From scvc70 at epix.net  Wed Oct 17 11:08:51 2007
From: scvc70 at epix.net (Carr&Edwards)
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007 13:08:51 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: [Healeys] ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!
References: <908554.7896.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <015401c810e0$64c91e80$231a4ad1@S0026273562>

His many friends are already doing that.

Sarah


  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Carl French
  To: Carr&Edwards ; Listserve T-series ; Listserve Triple-M ; DVC MG
  Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2007 1:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Fw: [Healeys] ALERT: MG Parts Stolen in Detroit!


  Really sad considering they will just melt it down. He needs to call/visit
EVERY scrap yard in the area and offer them double what they will get for the
stuff. It will be a bargain and he may get some of the stuff back.
  Carl

  Carr&Edwards <scvc70 at epix.net> wrote:
    I know the person from whom these parts were stolen, and thought I'd
forward
    this message to both MG lists. His loss cannot be measured in dollars
    alone--I know he has spent years acquiring some of these things from
    England. Keep your collective eyes open!


    Sarah Carr
  Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
  http://mail.yahoo.com

From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com  Sun Oct 28 12:53:20 2007
From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY)
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2007 15:53:20 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTD Mark II
Message-ID: <000801c8199c$31747f10$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>

hello to everyone

well the long awaited day has come..the TD is finally up and running and I am
very excited about driving it as it has sat for almost two years with an
ailing motor.. her are my questions and I am grateful for any help as always.
1. cant seem to stop the oil leak at the fornt seal..all new  again (fourth
time) and still drips.
2. she runs well but seems to hesitate upon first acceleration you have to
almost "feather" the throttle. This is when cold or warmed up...John Twist
rebuilt the carbs and they are in tip top shape....  probably need adjusting
to my new motor but I am not certain (accept I used the vaccuum thingy over
the fornts and they're set perfect) on how to adjust the hesitation out.
3. the coil is an original black Lucas coil sort of smaller in diameter could
the coil be the problem or points...they are all set gapped properly and the
plugs are new.... she idles and starts right up.........just hesitates.
She has two fuel pumps also.

Thanks again................

Rocky

From mgbob at juno.com  Mon Oct 29 06:51:13 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 09:51:13 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTD Mark II
Message-ID: <20071029.095114.3012.8.MGBOB@juno.com>

Rocky,
   It's a great day when a TD is fired up after a long sleep.  Everyone
shares your happiness. 
   Front seals usually seal or leak. If it's leaking, it may need to be
replaced yet again. Were you able to be 100 percent certain that there
were no sharp areas on the shaft when you slid the seal into place?  Was
the shaft full-size (not grooved or worn or scratched?  Was the seal
oiled or greased on its sealing lip when installed?  
    Hesitation can be from any number of things. Have you enough time on
the engine to read the color of the spark plugs?  If you have any doubts
about  mixture, you could safely give it an extra flat of richness.  Is
there sufficient oil in the dashpots?   Have you given a gentle snug to
each of the bolts clamping manifolds to the head? 
    Is the fuel less than six months old? 
  The coil should do the job if it works at all. Connections are clean
and tight? Spark plug wires are good? 
  Points are always suspect. You could pull a piece of clean paper
between them to clean them, then check the gap. Dwell timing is more
accurate than feeler gauges, and easier to do.  MG wrote that timing
should be set at 0, though most of us run 3-5 degrees advance, and that's
done as static timing, not with a timing light at idle.  
  It's certainly not a fuel pump issue.  Either pump is more than
sufficient for a TD engine unless it's getting about 10 miles per gallon.
 
  Valve clearances are OK, adjusted for the camshaft that's in the
engine?
  It's probably something quite simple to remedy, once identified.  Let
us know what the problem turned out to be.
Bob



On Sun, 28 Oct 2007 15:53:20 -0400 "KRISLYN COMPANY"
<KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> writes:
> hello to everyone
> 
> well the long awaited day has come..the TD is finally up and running 
> and I am
> very excited about driving it as it has sat for almost two years 
> with an
> ailing motor.. her are my questions and I am grateful for any help 
> as always.
> 1. cant seem to stop the oil leak at the fornt seal..all new  again 
> (fourth
> time) and still drips.
> 2. she runs well but seems to hesitate upon first acceleration you 
> have to
> almost "feather" the throttle. This is when cold or warmed up...John 
> Twist
> rebuilt the carbs and they are in tip top shape....  probably need 
> adjusting
> to my new motor but I am not certain (accept I used the vaccuum 
> thingy over
> the fornts and they're set perfect) on how to adjust the hesitation 
> out.
> 3. the coil is an original black Lucas coil sort of smaller in 
> diameter could
> the coil be the problem or points...they are all set gapped properly 
> and the
> plugs are new.... she idles and starts right up.........just 
> hesitates.
> She has two fuel pumps also.
> 
> Thanks again................
> 
> Rocky

From lawrie at britcars.com  Mon Oct 29 10:22:30 2007
From: lawrie at britcars.com (Lawrie Alexander)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 10:22:30 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTD Mark II
References: <000801c8199c$31747f10$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <001601c81a50$921c4050$a164a8c0@shop>

Rocky,

Bob Howard offered some good suggestions so I won't add much to what he 
said, other than to observe that the hesitation is almost certainly because 
the mixture is set too lean. However nicely, John Twist rebuilt the carbs, 
they still need to be adjusted to suit the needs of your engine. Turning the 
jet nuts down makes the mixture richer.

As for the oil leak at the front seal area, I have found a lot of T-types 
with oil dripping from the front of the pan - but not as a result of the 
seal leaking. One of the two bolts which holds the oil pan to the base of 
the timing cover goes into the timing chamber. Oil can run down the threads 
of this bolt and find its way out around the lock washer, giving the 
appearance of a leaky seal. It's always a good idea to cover the inside end 
of the threaded hole with silicone sealer when the cover is off. In your 
case, now the engine is together, putting silicone sealer on the threads of 
the bolt and around where it and the washer sit against the pan will help 
stop the leak - if that's what is causing your problem.

Lawrie
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KRISLYN COMPANY" <KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:53 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] MGTD Mark II


> hello to everyone
>
> well the long awaited day has come..the TD is finally up and running and I 
> am
> very excited about driving it as it has sat for almost two years with an
> ailing motor.. her are my questions and I am grateful for any help as 
> always.
> 1. cant seem to stop the oil leak at the fornt seal..all new  again 
> (fourth
> time) and still drips.
> 2. she runs well but seems to hesitate upon first acceleration you have to
> almost "feather" the throttle. This is when cold or warmed up...John Twist
> rebuilt the carbs and they are in tip top shape....  probably need 
> adjusting
> to my new motor but I am not certain (accept I used the vaccuum thingy 
> over
> the fornts and they're set perfect) on how to adjust the hesitation out.
> 3. the coil is an original black Lucas coil sort of smaller in diameter 
> could
> the coil be the problem or points...they are all set gapped properly and 
> the
> plugs are new.... she idles and starts right up.........just hesitates.
> She has two fuel pumps also.
>
> Thanks again................
>
> Rocky

From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com  Mon Oct 29 17:56:03 2007
From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:56:03 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
Message-ID: <005401c81a8f$a7cf5f10$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>

My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back to you
..please try me   again...

Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to check the
oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running right. that
seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.

A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for rich/lean
etc..  would love any help with instructions on that issue...

Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time) the Moss
Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey silicone as
it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell "sit". Any
thoughts on the leak here.

Thanks again and again....
Rocky

From anngene at bellsouth.net  Mon Oct 29 19:01:51 2007
From: anngene at bellsouth.net (anngene at bellsouth.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Oct 2007 21:01:51 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
In-Reply-To: <005401c81a8f$a7cf5f10$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
References: <005401c81a8f$a7cf5f10$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <4726908F.8050508@bellsouth.net>

Rocky...

The round Moss seal?  It seems you're going to have leaks unless you had 
the timing chain cover and the sump machined so the seal could fit 
properly without shifting...there was an article in Sacred Octagon 
sometime back detailing the fix.  Another possible cause could be the 
surface that it's riding on...is the back of the crank pulley where the 
seal rides perfectly smooth?

Gene Gillam
Saucier, MS

KRISLYN COMPANY wrote:
My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back to you
..please try me   again...

Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to check 
the
oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running right. that
seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.

A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for rich/lean
etc..  would love any help with instructions on that issue...

Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time) the Moss
Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey 
silicone as
it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell "sit". 
Any
thoughts on the leak here.
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com  Tue Oct 30 03:25:31 2007
From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 06:25:31 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: MG TD MKII
Message-ID: <000a01c81adf$33511480$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>

----- Original Message -----
From: KRISLYN COMPANY
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 8:56 PM
Subject: MG TD MKII


My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back to you
..please try me   again...

Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to check the
oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running right. that
seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.

A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for rich/lean
etc..  would love any help with instructions on that issue...

Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time) the Moss
Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey silicone as
it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell "sit". Any
thoughts on the leak here.

Thanks again and again....
Rocky

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Oct 30 05:06:36 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:06:36 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: MG TD MKII
References: <000a01c81adf$33511480$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <002c01c81aed$52a78220$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

A common front seal leakage problem is a crack in the hub of the pulley. 
This may be hairline and hard to detect, but will quickly wear the ID of the 
seal. Also if the hub of the pulley is worn concave, the seal will fit 
properly. This can be sleeved, if it is not cracked.

Dallas.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KRISLYN COMPANY" <KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 6:25 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: MG TD MKII


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: KRISLYN COMPANY
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 8:56 PM
> Subject: MG TD MKII
>
>
> My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back to you
> ..please try me   again...
>
> Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to check 
> the
> oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running right. that
> seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.
>
> A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for rich/lean
> etc..  would love any help with instructions on that issue...
>
> Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time) the 
> Moss
> Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey silicone 
> as
> it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell "sit". 
> Any
> thoughts on the leak here.
>
> Thanks again and again....
> Rocky
> _______________________________________________
> dcongleton at embarqmail.com
>
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
>
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.15.12/1098 - Release Date: 
> 10/29/2007 9:28 AM

From dcongleton at embarqmail.com  Tue Oct 30 05:09:11 2007
From: dcongleton at embarqmail.com (Dallas Congleton)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 08:09:11 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: MG TD MKII
References: <000a01c81adf$33511480$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <004501c81aed$aeb4b970$0201a8c0@your4dacd0ea75>

A common front seal leakage problem is a crack in the hub of the pulley.
This may be hairline and hard to detect, but will quickly wear the ID of the
seal.

Also if the hub of the pulley is worn concave, the seal will not fit
properly. This can be sleeved, if it is not cracked.

Your returned mail says your box is full-
Dallas.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KRISLYN COMPANY" <KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 6:25 AM
Subject: [Mg-t] Fw: MG TD MKII


> ----- Original Message -----
> From: KRISLYN COMPANY
> To: mg-t at autox.team.net
> Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 8:56 PM
> Subject: MG TD MKII
>
>
> My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back to you
> ..please try me   again...
>
> Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to check 
> the
> oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running right. that
> seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.
>
> A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for rich/lean
> etc..  would love any help with instructions on that issue...
>
> Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time) the 
> Moss
> Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey silicone 
> as
> it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell "sit". 
> Any
> thoughts on the leak here.
>
> Thanks again and again....
> Rocky

From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com  Tue Oct 30 15:59:15 2007
From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:59:15 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] test
Message-ID: <000801c81b48$80e51070$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>

seems my e mail has gone caflooey again...just testing.

From btsmith at island.net  Tue Oct 30 16:04:12 2007
From: btsmith at island.net (Brian & Jan)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 16:04:12 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] test
References: <000801c81b48$80e51070$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <003101c81b49$310c9590$030aa8c0@SMITH>

coming through fine here.

Brian
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KRISLYN COMPANY" <KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com>
To: <mg-t at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 3:59 PM
Subject: [Mg-t] test


> seems my e mail has gone caflooey again...just testing.
> _______________________________________________
> btsmith at island.net
> 
> Mg-t at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t
> 
> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com  Tue Oct 30 16:40:12 2007
From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 19:40:12 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
Message-ID: <001b01c81b4e$3726ae20$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>

o.k hopefully e mail is fixed now....  sorry for the bounce backs.

thanks for all the help on the hesitation..

how much oil is required in each carb chamber... my son tells me he put a
small amount of standard 10w 40 is that o.k or should i somehow remove it...

also was looking for help on the leaky front seal it is the moss (Timkin) not
the rope seal and it was set in high temp grey silicone as it fit the crank
end seemingly snug but was loose in the groove fitment. there were no visible
wear signs on the polished end of the crank....very smooth.

thanks as always
Rocky

From lkarpman at tx.rr.com  Tue Oct 30 16:47:48 2007
From: lkarpman at tx.rr.com (Larry Karpman)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 18:47:48 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
In-Reply-To: <001b01c81b4e$3726ae20$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <003001c81b4f$47410930$6401a8c0@yourwg5n33dutv>

 The shop manual for TD-TF says 1 teaspoon of oil each 1000 miles.

Cheers

Larry

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+lkarpman=tx.rr.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+lkarpman=tx.rr.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of KRISLYN
COMPANY
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 6:40 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII

o.k hopefully e mail is fixed now....  sorry for the bounce backs.

thanks for all the help on the hesitation..

how much oil is required in each carb chamber... my son tells me he put a
small amount of standard 10w 40 is that o.k or should i somehow remove it...

also was looking for help on the leaky front seal it is the moss (Timkin)
not the rope seal and it was set in high temp grey silicone as it fit the
crank end seemingly snug but was loose in the groove fitment. there were no
visible wear signs on the polished end of the crank....very smooth.

thanks as always
Rocky

From peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct 30 17:56:48 2007
From: peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net (peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 20:56:48 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] Hesitation/damper oil
Message-ID: <000f01c81b58$eb0dc7c0$230110ac@OURS>

 Hi Rocky,
    Been reading the installments with interest. Good going on getting to
 where you're at with the TD. I trust you have some kind of manual to see
 pictures of the carburetor.

    The damper rods' pistons must be covered with oil, that's the important
 thing. If you overfill, the worst that will happen is a short period of
 smoke as the excess is sucked in and burned. I just use a squirt oil can 
and
 add to a little less than the top of the bore, and a few drops spill over.
 The thickness of the oil is important in the amount of damping of the 
piston
 assembly. Too thin an oil could result in hesitation. 10-40 will probably 
be
 OK, though different folks have different preferences, depending on the 
fine
 tuning of the car. Some use ATF (which is thinner) or straight 30 weight.
 Having oil (other than gear oil!!) in the dashpot is certainly better than
 none, the weight can be varied to suit.

    To remove the oil is simple. [Keep everything nice and clean.]
* Unscrew and remove the top cap and damper rod/piston.
* Unscrew and remove the retaining screws for the suction chamber body.
* Pull the suction chamber straight up along the axis of the damper rod. A
 small amount of twisting back and forth of the chamber may help get it
 started. The main piston should stay in place on the carburetor. (If it
 comes with the chamber, no big deal, just gently pull it out by hand.)
* Gently pull straight up on the carb piston until free, knowing that there
 is a "long" brass needle that must also come free. Do not bend, scratch or
 otherwise abuse the needle or John Twist will beat you with a stick. Dump
 out the old oil. Add the oil of choice.

 A couple of points:
- Don't force anything! The British have an expression of "offering" one
 part to another during reassembly. If it doesn't go easily, back up and 
look
 at it closely and see what must be wrong before trying again.
- A helpful book, out of print, but often available on eBay or Barnes and
 Noble used books is Tuning SU Carburetters, Speedsport Motorbooks, ISBN
 85113-072-0. Any edition will do, but 3rd edition (1975) goes into later 
SUs
 with emission controls. There are other SU books out there, get one.

 Best luck, and be careful, it's a jungle out there!
Pete Thiel
'53 TD

From lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com  Tue Oct 30 19:51:45 2007
From: lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com (Lew Palmer)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 21:51:45 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
In-Reply-To: <001b01c81b4e$3726ae20$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
References: <001b01c81b4e$3726ae20$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <A436DF922BFF45E1AA1403999181BBA5@roundabout.com>

Rocky,

I don't exactly know what you mean by "loose in the groove fitment", but the
lip seal does not offer a tight fit in the groove left when you remove the
rope seal. You do have to fill the groove with sealant and let it set up
around the seal. (or am I being too obvious?) You also need to ensure the
seal is centered on the crank as perfectly concentric with the crank as
possible. Fill with sealant, insert the seal, snug everything up, and turn
the crank by hand several times before the sealant sets up.

Cheers,
Lew Palmer

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+lpalmer=roundaboutmanor.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of KRISLYN COMPANY
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 6:40 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII

o.k hopefully e mail is fixed now....  sorry for the bounce backs.

thanks for all the help on the hesitation..

how much oil is required in each carb chamber... my son tells me he put a
small amount of standard 10w 40 is that o.k or should i somehow remove it...

also was looking for help on the leaky front seal it is the moss (Timkin)
not
the rope seal and it was set in high temp grey silicone as it fit the crank
end seemingly snug but was loose in the groove fitment. there were no
visible
wear signs on the polished end of the crank....very smooth.

thanks as always
Rocky
_______________________________________________
lpalmer at roundaboutmanor.com

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From stolzy40 at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 31 15:35:50 2007
From: stolzy40 at sbcglobal.net (Mark Stolzenburg)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:35:50 -0500
Subject: [Mg-t] test
In-Reply-To: <000801c81b48$80e51070$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <CHEKLGCMFCGPGEIOFPDJOEKLCMAA.stolzy40@sbcglobal.net>

Can anyone tell me why I am be emailed or why my email address
(stolzy40 at sbcglobal.net)  on notes as shown below (on this note) and similar
notes? It seems that ever since the Mg-t at autox.team.net group went to a
different email group I have been getting these types of messages. BTW, I am
a member of the Mg-t at autox.team.net group but only in that capacity, not as
an administrator. Can anyone get this problem corrected.
Thanks,
Mark Stolzenburg

-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces+stolzy40=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:mg-t-bounces+stolzy40=sbcglobal.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of
KRISLYN COMPANY
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2007 5:59 PM
To: mg-t at autox.team.net
Subject: [Mg-t] test

seems my e mail has gone caflooey again...just testing.
_______________________________________________
stolzy40 at sbcglobal.net

Mg-t at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t

Archives at http://www.team.net/archive

From shop at justbrits.com  Wed Oct 31 16:44:27 2007
From: shop at justbrits.com (shop at justbrits.com)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 17:44:27 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] test
References: <CHEKLGCMFCGPGEIOFPDJOEKLCMAA.stolzy40@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <00c901c81c17$fa09f040$6601a8c0@actualshop>

<<Can anyone get this problem corrected.>>

Short answer Mark, is no.  it is one of the functions of MailMan and is
occuring to everybody on every List that MJB has converted.

This is how mine come thru:

<<Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
shop at justbrits.com>>

Ed

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Oct 31 21:02:51 2007
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 21:02:51 -0700
Subject: [Mg-t] test
In-Reply-To: <CHEKLGCMFCGPGEIOFPDJOEKLCMAA.stolzy40@sbcglobal.net>
References: <CHEKLGCMFCGPGEIOFPDJOEKLCMAA.stolzy40@sbcglobal.net>
Message-ID: <47294FEB.9080307@bradakis.com>

> Can anyone get this problem corrected.
>  
>
Well, yes and no.  The problem will exist as long as those incompetent
money-grubbing scumbags at AOL refuse to hire tech people with more
than maybe half a dozen or so brain cells.

Basically AOL subscribers have an option to click on a button that
marks a message as unwanted spam.  As list administrator, I then
get a message that basically says "some AOL subscriber claims
that some message from some list on one of your servers is spam."

They provide NO INFORMATION WHATSOEVER as to who
it is and what list they might be on, claiming privacy issues.  Gee,
what do they think I am going to do?  If they told me who was
offended by getting the messages from the list to which they
subscribed, I could fix the problem with no trouble.  But no,
they just waste my time sending me a message that has no value
whatsoever.  Sheesh.

But mailman has the option of adding each recipient address to the
messages sent to that person.  So I get list mail with my address at
the bottom, you get list mail with  your address at the bottom.  No
one ever sees it , except for those folks who for whatever reason
don't edit their replies and  send it out with their responses.  That's
their problem, not mine.

Anyway, I have  set the list to not add the personal email to messages.
It  will stay that way until the next incompetent AOL whiner comes
along, forcing my hand once again.

mjb.

From mgbob at juno.com  Tue Oct 30 06:16:07 2007
From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard)
Date: Tue, 30 Oct 2007 09:16:07 -0400
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
Message-ID: <20071030.091831.3012.15.MGBOB@juno.com>

Rocky,
   The instructions in the workshop manual and driver handbook are OK,
though if you haven't done it before or seen it done, adjustment of the
carbs seems intimidating.  It's not.
    You have adjusted for even air flow, you wrote.  Good, that's
important.
    Unclamp the throttle shaft and check again that air flow is equal at,
say, 700 rpm or so. Leave the shaft loose, for now.
    Remove one end of the bar that connects the jet adjusting levers
(choke device).  There should be no pull on the clevis pin. With the jet
head(the brass piece of the jet that protrudes through the adjusting nut)
pushed up firmlyagainst the two carb bodies, fit the bar again. If the
clevis does not slip in and out easily, adjust the length of the bar so
that the pin does slip in and out easily. Tighten the locknut   Once this
has been done, you won't ever have to do it again until the carbs are
removed some time in the future.  
     The book talks about centreing the jet.  Chances are that this was
well done when the carbs were reworked, but it's easy to check.  You have
the air cleaner manifold off already, so stick your finger into the
opening and lift the piston. Let it drop. It should bottom with an
audible click. If it does, all is well. If it does not click, then the
needle is binding in the jet and centreing will be needed.    Not likely,
though.  Write back if you need to centre the jet. 
    All the hard work is done at this point.
    With engine running, near operating temp, mixture enrichment (choke)
completely off and some slack in the wire, you're ready to adjust carbs.
    Using a long thin screwdriver, narrow blade is easiest, lift the
piston 1/32" (ws manual) to 1/8" (everyone else) as you listen carefully
to engine sound.  If engine speed drops, you know mixture is lean. If it
rises and stays faster, you know it's too rich.  (From your message, it's
too lean.)  To adjust the mix richer, you screw down the brass jet
adjusting nut.  There's a neat little wrench for this, but fingers work
great. Turn the brass nut down one flat. Test again by lifting the
piston. Better?  Down another flat. Worse? Up two flats (back to where
you were, and up one more).  After you have moved one carb's adjuster
three or four flats, go work on the other carb, doing same thing.  
   Keep in mind that engine speed may be rising as you do this. Check
that the SUs are still synchronised.
   Back and forth, from one to the other carb a few times, lifting,
listening, adjusting accordingly.  What you are after is a momentary
increase in idle speed, followed by a drop.
   Once it's to your satisfaction, set the idle to 700-800 or so, double
check synchronisation, and clamp up the throttle shaft.
   It's really much quicker to do it than to describe it.
   Check the oil level in the dashpots. install air cleaner. Go driving. 
Once you have 50 miles or so of safety fast motoring, you can inspect the
sparkplugs back at home. They should have an even grey-tan color.  This
varies with the particular fuel that is in the tank, but what you don't
want to see is light-grey/white, or black sooty stuff.  If you see white
on two or four plugs, adjust the mix down a flat or two on corresponding
carb, and if it's black, lean the mix by turning the nut upward a couple
of flats.  
Bob

On Mon, 29 Oct 2007 20:56:03 -0400 "KRISLYN COMPANY"
<KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> writes:
> My e mail has been a little touchy so if messages have bounced back 
> to you
> ..please try me   again...
> 
> Thanks for all the replies regarding the hesitation ...I intend to 
> check the
> oil level in the carb dampers to see if we can get her running 
> right. that
> seemed to be the general concensus among all replies.
> 
> A couple of members asked if I had checked the carb settings for 
> rich/lean
> etc..  would love any help with instructions on that issue...
> 
> Also regarding the front seal leak... i used (for the fourth time) 
> the Moss
> Seal as the new round "Timkin" brand and set it in high heat grey 
> silicone as
> it fits the crank end snugly but fits very poorly in the channell 
> "sit". Any
> thoughts on the leak here.
> 
> Thanks again and again....
> Rocky

From mmmbob at comcast.net  Wed Oct 31 08:52:32 2007
From: mmmbob at comcast.net (J.E.A. Rich)
Date: Wed, 31 Oct 2007 09:52:32 -0600
Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII
In-Reply-To: <001b01c81b4e$3726ae20$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
References: <001b01c81b4e$3726ae20$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome>
Message-ID: <D76DFC87-3DF2-4029-8380-D3318F56C854@comcast.net>

Rocky,

The crankshaft can be as shiny as you like but that won't affect the  
front seal, the seal runs on the outside of the crankshaft pulley,  
not the shaft itself.

Cheers, "Bob".