From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com Thu Nov 1 03:58:20 2007 From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 06:58:20 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII Message-ID: <002301c81c76$1d96a630$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> Hello Again What a great great tool this list is............ EVERYONE has been so helpful.Special thanks to Bob Howard for his step by step SU carb adjustment "class" WOW what a clear and easy to understand and complete way to work out a problem........ I am not real computer savvy so I didnt know how to send an e mail directly to Bob to thank him for the help but here it is and thanks to everyone she's runnin' like a dreeeeeeeeam. only one small little front seal oil leak....... maybe the hanging napkin thing one of the guys told me about will suffice for now......... ha ha!! just want to drive and enjoy after so long awaited!!!! Keep up the great info ................. Thanks again to everyone!............Rocky From carlmgtc at hotmail.com Thu Nov 1 11:01:51 2007 From: carlmgtc at hotmail.com (Carl Fritz) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 14:01:51 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII In-Reply-To: <002301c81c76$1d96a630$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> References: <002301c81c76$1d96a630$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> Message-ID: Rocky, The MOST important thing for you to remember is this: "Once you get your SUs set up properly, DON'T MESS WITH THE CARBS !!!!!! SUs WILL STAY IN TUNE FOR LITERALLY YEARS, IF YOU LEAVE THEM ALONE !!!!! IF YOUR CAR STARTS TO RUN POORLY, THE PROBLEM IS ALMOST CERTAINLY NOT THE FAULT OF THE SU CARBS !!!!"Regards,Carl FritzTC 6756VA 2009 Saloon Gainesville, Florida> From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> To: mg-t at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 06:58:20 -0400> Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII> > Hello Again> > What a great great tool this list is............ EVERYONE has been so> helpful.Special thanks to Bob Howard for his step by step SU carb adjustment> "class" WOW what a clear and easy to understand and complete way to work out> a problem........ I am not real computer savvy so I didnt know how to send an> e mail directly to Bob to thank him for the help but here it is and thanks to> everyone she's runnin' like a dreeeeeeeeam.> > only one small little front seal oil leak....... maybe the hanging napkin> thing one of the guys told me about will suffice for now......... ha ha!!> just want to drive and enjoy after so long awaited!!!! Keep up the great info> .................> > Thanks again to everyone!............Rocky> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg-t at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Thu Nov 1 11:55:37 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:55:37 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII In-Reply-To: References: <002301c81c76$1d96a630$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> Message-ID: Except for topping them off with oil and keeping your floats clean and working. Just don't play with the jets.... On Nov 1, 2007, at 1:01 PM, Carl Fritz wrote: > Rocky, > The MOST important thing for you to remember is this: "Once you > get your SUs > set up properly, DON'T MESS WITH THE CARBS !!!!!! SUs WILL STAY IN > TUNE FOR > LITERALLY YEARS, IF YOU LEAVE THEM ALONE !!!!! IF YOUR CAR STARTS > TO RUN > POORLY, THE PROBLEM IS ALMOST CERTAINLY NOT THE FAULT OF THE SU CARBS > !!!!"Regards,Carl FritzTC 6756VA 2009 Saloon Gainesville, Florida> > From: > KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> To: mg-t at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 1 > Nov 2007 > 06:58:20 -0400> Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII> > Hello Again> > What a > great > great tool this list is............ EVERYONE has been so> > helpful.Special > thanks to Bob Howard for his step by step SU carb adjustment> > "class" WOW what > a clear and easy to understand and complete way to work out> a > problem........ > I am not real computer savvy so I didnt know how to send an> e mail > directly > to Bob to thank him for the help but here it is and thanks to> > everyone she's > runnin' like a dreeeeeeeeam.> > only one small little front seal oil > leak....... maybe the hanging napkin> thing one of the guys told me > about will > suffice for now......... ha ha!!> just want to drive and enjoy > after so long > awaited!!!! Keep up the great info> .................> > Thanks > again to > everyone!............Rocky> > _______________________________________________> > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg- > t at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at > http://www.team.net/archive > _________________________________________________________________ > Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble > challenge with star power. > http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx? > icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From rthadani at hotmail.com Thu Nov 1 12:05:47 2007 From: rthadani at hotmail.com (Raj Thadani) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 15:05:47 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII In-Reply-To: References: <002301c81c76$1d96a630$6501a8c0@CompaqXPHome> Message-ID: How frequently should one check the oil? And is there a mark that indicates how much to fill? I also read in one of the earlier emails that 10W-30 does the job? Thanks for all this useful information! Raj > From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net> Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 13:55:37 -0500> To: carlmgtc at hotmail.com> CC: mg-t at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII> > Except for topping them off with oil and keeping your floats clean > and working. Just don't play with the jets....> > > On Nov 1, 2007, at 1:01 PM, Carl Fritz wrote:> > > Rocky,> > The MOST important thing for you to remember is this: "Once you > > get your SUs> > set up properly, DON'T MESS WITH THE CARBS !!!!!! SUs WILL STAY IN > > TUNE FOR> > LITERALLY YEARS, IF YOU LEAVE THEM ALONE !!!!! IF YOUR CAR STARTS > > TO RUN> > POORLY, THE PROBLEM IS ALMOST CERTAINLY NOT THE FAULT OF THE SU CARBS> > !!!!"Regards,Carl FritzTC 6756VA 2009 Saloon Gainesville, Florida> > > From:> > KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com> To: mg-t at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 1 > > Nov 2007> > 06:58:20 -0400> Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII> > Hello Again> > What a > > great> > great tool this list is............ EVERYONE has been so> > > helpful.Special> > thanks to Bob Howard for his step by step SU carb adjustment> > > "class" WOW what> > a clear and easy to understand and complete way to work out> a > > problem........> > I am not real computer savvy so I didnt know how to send an> e mail > > directly> > to Bob to thank him for the help but here it is and thanks to> > > everyone she's> > runnin' like a dreeeeeeeeam.> > only one small little front seal oil> > leak....... maybe the hanging napkin> thing one of the guys told me > > about will> > suffice for now......... ha ha!!> just want to drive and enjoy > > after so long> > awaited!!!! Keep up the great info> .................> > Thanks > > again to> > everyone!............Rocky> > > _______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg- > > t at autox.team.net>> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at> > http://www.team.net/archive> > _________________________________________________________________> > Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble> > challenge with star power.> > http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx? > > icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct> > _______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > Mg-t at autox.team.net> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> >> > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > Mg-t at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t> > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play Star Shuffle: the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_oct From peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net Thu Nov 1 15:03:02 2007 From: peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net (peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 18:03:02 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD MKII Message-ID: <009e01c81cd2$f96cdbf0$230110ac@OURS> Raj, Once the oil is in the bore, it has no place to go. It is a damper fluid that doesn't get used up, doesn't splash out, and can't leak in normal circumstances. Tune-up time is a good time to check it. Pete Thiel '53 TD > How frequently should one check the oil? And is there a mark that > indicates how much to fill? I also read in one of the earlier emails that > 10W-30 does the job? > > Thanks for all this useful information! > > > > Raj From peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net Thu Nov 1 15:30:26 2007 From: peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net (peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net) Date: Thu, 1 Nov 2007 18:30:26 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] more SU carb info Message-ID: <00b901c81cd6$cd346040$230110ac@OURS> Hi Folks, Pretty good S.U. info here. Lots more on Google. I had to look up a few things since this conversation was going on - I don't want to give any incomplete or wrong information. I liked the "cautions" in this one. One carb at a time, don't mix parts from one carb to another, same oil and amount in each carb. Things I take for granted, but the novice might not. Various sources list Duckham's Carburettor Oil, ATF 10W, 15W, 20W, 10-30W, and the amount varies with the carb. My original email stands, but this adds. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/damper.html Best, Pete Thiel From ted at the-jacksons.ca Thu Nov 1 20:50:50 2007 From: ted at the-jacksons.ca (Ted Jackson) Date: Thu, 01 Nov 2007 23:50:50 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] more SU carb info In-Reply-To: <00b901c81cd6$cd346040$230110ac@OURS> References: <00b901c81cd6$cd346040$230110ac@OURS> Message-ID: <472A9E9A.4070201@the-jacksons.ca> Hi Folks, I would add that I check the dash pots about weekly if I'm driving a lot and generally have to add some oil. I have taken an old nasal spray bottle and pried out the nozzle, thrown away the straw and filled it with my oil of choice. Put the nozzle back in, cap it, and you have a very handy dash pot oiler for your tool box. And one last thing - I like Moss and what they do as well as anybody BUT on sale right now they have Dash Pot Oil, 125 ml (that's 4 oz) for $6.95. Work it out, that's $222.40 per U.S. gallon at the sale price! You thought the price of gas was high. 10W30 or 20W50 will do the job for you and you'll get all you need by completely draining the dregs out of the empty new oil containers after you do an oil change. Cheers, Ted Jackson peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi Folks, > Pretty good S.U. info here. Lots more on Google. I had to look up a few > things since this conversation was going on - I don't want to give any > incomplete or wrong information. I liked the "cautions" in this one. One carb > at a time, don't mix parts from one carb to another, same oil and amount in > each carb. Things I take for granted, but the novice might not. > Various sources list Duckham's Carburettor Oil, ATF 10W, 15W, 20W, 10-30W, > and the amount varies with the carb. My original email stands, but this adds. > http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/su/damper.html > Best, Pete Thiel > _______________________________________________ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of ted.vcf] From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com Sat Nov 3 19:44:53 2007 From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY) Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2007 22:44:53 -0400 Subject: [Mg-t] MG TD Mark II Front Seal Message-ID: <002301c81e8c$adf68c50$6601a8c0@CompaqXPHome> The hugest of thanks to all for help on getting the car running...she purrrrrrss and with the new 5 speed O/D she is a pleasure to road. One last (ha ha i wish) problem...front seal leaking pretty badly. I took the pulley off tonight and noticed some pitting and minor scratches on the pulley so thought I might need a speedy sleeve to make it perfect and hence it would be slightly larger in diameter then hopefully sealing bettter.. the moss catalog shows an "oil thrower" that seems located behind the pulley at the chain cover...as i had the motor done by a professional shop i wasn't ceratin if this part is inside the cover or perhaps missing from behind the pulley..also will the key way thingy fall out inside the timing chain cover when i attempt to put the pulley back in.. (thats all i need) I have it oriented (by accident) at the ten oclock range so it seems in place for now.. any help as usual is greatly appreciated..... special thanks to bob howard...did my carb tune today....simple as pie...no problems! Rocky From wtsnyder at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 5 10:38:08 2007 From: wtsnyder at bellsouth.net (Bill Snyder) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 12:38:08 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy Message-ID: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> Hello list. Many of you were very helpful last year in helping me with restoration of a 1953 TD that I brought home fully disassembled. She is now roadworthy and a beaut.....dark BRG with a tan leather interior. Out on the open road she drives great. However taking off or backing up from a dead stop, especially on an incline is an adventure. The clutch is so touchy that it is difficult to get underway in first gear without either getting rubber or killing the engine. BTW I am a 50-year-old who has driven manual tranny cars since I got a learners permit at age 15, and tractors before that. Has anyone else on the list had this problem, or can anyone suggest possible solutions? I want to drive the car more. Just getting it our of my basement garage, turned around, and up a steep driveway sometimesdiscourages me from even taking the car out! Thanks in advance. Bill Snyder Waynesville, NC '66MGB '53TD From ddubois at sinclair.net Mon Nov 5 11:06:09 2007 From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois) Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2007 10:06:09 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy In-Reply-To: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> References: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <472F5B91.1000902@sinclair.net> Bill, A couple of things. A grabby clutch is not unusual in a T series car. The clutch disk could be soaked with oil or glazed, the pressure plate may not be square to the flywheel surface, etc., etc. Our TD was so bad that it would literally jump up and down when trying to feather the clutch when in reverse. My solution was to have the flywheel resurfaced one time when I had the engine out for other work. I have since put 80,000 mile on the car with no more problems. Another thing to consider doing is the modification to the clutch linkage detailed in the following link: http://www.oconnorclassics.com/techtalk_clutch.php The next thing is of great importance. Until you solve the problem and even afterward, don't ever try to start on an uphill slope, where the car will roll back while you go from the brake to the throttle while releasing the clutch as the car rolls back, even a little bit. This is a recipe for a broken half shaft. I know of more people who have broken half shafts doing that and they all say the same thing, "it wasn't much of a grade, but the axle just broke in an instant. Cheers, Dave From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Mon Nov 5 11:08:38 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 12:08:38 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy In-Reply-To: <472F5B91.1000902@sinclair.net> References: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> <472F5B91.1000902@sinclair.net> Message-ID: <0DA186FA-39D5-4530-95CA-D41C6C8EBA19@sbcglobal.net> My wife will back this up! She never drove it again.... Mike On Nov 5, 2007, at 12:06 PM, Dave and Liz DuBois wrote: > > The next thing is of great importance. Until you solve the problem > and > even afterward, don't ever try to start on an uphill slope, where the > car will roll back while you go from the brake to the throttle while > releasing the clutch as the car rolls back, even a little bit. > This is > a recipe for a broken half shaft. I know of more people who have > broken half shafts doing that and they all say the same thing, "it > wasn't much of a grade, but the axle just broke in an instant. From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca Mon Nov 5 12:27:16 2007 From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (Bob Grunau) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:27:16 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy In-Reply-To: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Hi Bill, My first guess is the motor mounts are shot, or broken ( the rubber separating from the steel plate in the front mount ), gearbox rubbers are loose, gearbox rear hold-down yoke is not snug, and last, but not least, the engine steady is broken, loose, or not adjusted correctly. I would also slip the clutch a bit to burn off any oil/grease etc, might help. Bob Grunau -----Original Message----- From: mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Bill Snyder Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 12:38 PM To: Mg-t at autox.team.net Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy Hello list. Many of you were very helpful last year in helping me with restoration of a 1953 TD that I brought home fully disassembled. She is now roadworthy and a beaut.....dark BRG with a tan leather interior. Out on the open road she drives great. However taking off or backing up from a dead stop, especially on an incline is an adventure. The clutch is so touchy that it is difficult to get underway in first gear without either getting rubber or killing the engine. BTW I am a 50-year-old who has driven manual tranny cars since I got a learners permit at age 15, and tractors before that. Has anyone else on the list had this problem, or can anyone suggest possible solutions? I want to drive the car more. Just getting it our of my basement garage, turned around, and up a steep driveway sometimesdiscourages me from even taking the car out! Thanks in advance. Bill Snyder Waynesville, NC '66MGB '53TD Mg-t at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From curtcurtiss at gmail.com Mon Nov 5 12:33:23 2007 From: curtcurtiss at gmail.com (curt@curtcurtiss.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 13:33:23 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy In-Reply-To: References: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I had a similar problem and it turned out the rubber between my rear leaf springs and axle housing compressed causing my u bolts to loosen up. This caused my axle to twist slightly in certain situations, I cranked down on my axle u bolts and the problem went away. Good Luck! On 11/5/07, Bob Grunau wrote: > > Hi Bill, > My first guess is the motor mounts are shot, or broken ( the rubber > separating from the steel plate in the front mount ), gearbox rubbers are > loose, gearbox rear hold-down yoke is not snug, and last, but not least, > the > engine steady is broken, loose, or not adjusted correctly. > > I would also slip the clutch a bit to burn off any oil/grease etc, might > help. > Bob Grunau > > -----Original Message----- > From: mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net > [mailto:mg-t-bounces+grunau.garage=sympatico.ca at autox.team.net]On Behalf > Of Bill Snyder > Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 12:38 PM > To: Mg-t at autox.team.net > Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy > > > Hello list. Many of you were very helpful last year in helping me with > restoration of a 1953 TD that I brought home fully disassembled. She is > now > roadworthy and a beaut.....dark BRG with a tan leather interior. > > > > Out on the open road she drives great. However taking off or backing up > from > a dead stop, especially on an incline is an adventure. The clutch is so > touchy that it is difficult to get underway in first gear without either > getting rubber or killing the engine. BTW I am a 50-year-old who has > driven > manual tranny cars since I got a learners permit at age 15, and tractors > before that. > > > > Has anyone else on the list had this problem, or can anyone suggest > possible > solutions? I want to drive the car more. Just getting it our of my > basement > garage, turned around, and up a steep driveway sometimesdiscourages me > from > even taking the car out! > > > > Thanks in advance. > > Bill Snyder > > Waynesville, NC > > '66MGB > > '53TD > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From JagMkV at aol.com Mon Nov 5 13:38:12 2007 From: JagMkV at aol.com (JagMkV at aol.com) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 15:38:12 EST Subject: [Mg-t] Clutch Message-ID: In my case it was the motor mounts, especially the rear. The cup that the rear mount sits in was cracked, and allowed the motor to move back and forth as torque was applied, so that even though the clutch pedal was not moved, it seemed to "grab" with resultant wheelspin. Check and make sure they are tight, and fore/aft movement is not possible. Craig Carragan Southbury, CT ************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com From wtsnyder at bellsouth.net Mon Nov 5 15:00:02 2007 From: wtsnyder at bellsouth.net (Bill Snyder) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:00:02 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy Message-ID: <20071105220040.5C66D1879F1@autox.team.net> Thanks for all the input on the clutch! I will check out everything recommended and get back to you, hopefully with half shafts intact. The motor and tranny mounts were new at installation but I will check for tightness. Can anyone comment on the proper adjustment for the engine steady as I have no clue there? Bill Snyder From blair at ifd.mv.com Mon Nov 5 15:01:08 2007 From: blair at ifd.mv.com (Blair J. Weiss) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:01:08 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy References: <20071105173847.2EE001879D4@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <00e801c81ff7$5f89d1f0$c9637dc7@Terrafirma> Bill - I have to agree with Bob Grunau... although, the words motor mount is sorta a misnomer... in other words, the mount that connects the transmission to the crossmember. Often times the casting on the transmission will crack where the clevis goes through, it's a very common problem. Blair ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Snyder" To: Sent: Monday, November 05, 2007 12:38 PM Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy > Hello list. Many of you were very helpful last year in helping me with > restoration of a 1953 TD that I brought home fully disassembled. She is > now > roadworthy and a beaut.....dark BRG with a tan leather interior. > > > > Out on the open road she drives great. However taking off or backing up > from > a dead stop, especially on an incline is an adventure. The clutch is so > touchy that it is difficult to get underway in first gear without either > getting rubber or killing the engine. BTW I am a 50-year-old who has > driven > manual tranny cars since I got a learners permit at age 15, and tractors > before that. > > > > Has anyone else on the list had this problem, or can anyone suggest > possible > solutions? I want to drive the car more. Just getting it our of my > basement > garage, turned around, and up a steep driveway sometimesdiscourages me > from > even taking the car out! > > > > Thanks in advance. > > Bill Snyder > > Waynesville, NC > > '66MGB > > '53TD > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From mgbob at juno.com Mon Nov 5 15:42:37 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:42:37 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Touchy Clutchy Message-ID: <20071105.174237.3356.12.MGBOB@juno.com> Bill, The engine steady adjustment is the easiest of all the things you are checking. Its purpose is just to steady the engine so it does not rock, which the engine can do as it is mounted at only two points, both low on the engine. Disconnect the nut at the outer end of the turnbuckle rod. Shorten the turnbuckle a bit so there is clearance at the outer end. Shove the engine away from you to left side of the car and note where it returns. Do that again a couple of times, just to be sure that it comes to rest at the same place. Now lengthen the turnbuckle so that it is firm against the chassis bracket without pushing the engine away from the bracket, pull up its locknuts, replace the nut and washer on the outboard side of the bracket, and job is done. There will be a little rocking motion of the engine, but it's just the amount that the rubbers compress. If the engine's air cleaner manifold or TF type air cleaners bump the vertical side of the bonnet, it's a workable cobble to lengthen the turnbuckle just a couple of turns to push the engine to the left, but one should not do it unless there is no other way to avoid the contact. Bob On Mon, 5 Nov 2007 17:00:02 -0500 "Bill Snyder" writes: > Thanks for all the input on the clutch! I will check out everything > recommended and get back to you, hopefully with half shafts intact. > The > motor and tranny mounts were new at installation but I will check > for > tightness. Can anyone comment on the proper adjustment for the > engine steady > as I have no clue there? > > > > Bill Snyder From mgcharlie at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 08:40:09 2007 From: mgcharlie at comcast.net (Charlie Baldwin) Date: Wed, 07 Nov 2007 10:40:09 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Hesitation/damper oil In-Reply-To: <000f01c81b58$eb0dc7c0$230110ac@OURS> References: <000f01c81b58$eb0dc7c0$230110ac@OURS> Message-ID: <4731DC59.6030408@comcast.net> An interesting side note to the choice of oil for carb dampers is that John Twist recommends 80/90 wt. gear oil for this purpose. I've had good luck with 3 in 1 oil, which I started using when driving a Volvo 122S (HS6 carbs) for an everyday car. Engine oil was too thick in the cold winter temperatures and ATF was too thin in the summer. Since most of our carbs are old and have some wear and are driven in the warm weather only, John's reasoning was that the gear oil would work well. Charlie peter-thiel at sbcglobal.net wrote: > Hi Rocky, > Been reading the installments with interest. Good going on getting to > where you're at with the TD. I trust you have some kind of manual to see > pictures of the carburetor. > > The damper rods' pistons must be covered with oil, that's the important > thing. If you overfill, the worst that will happen is a short period of > smoke as the excess is sucked in and burned. I just use a squirt oil can >and > add to a little less than the top of the bore, and a few drops spill over. > The thickness of the oil is important in the amount of damping of the >piston > assembly. Too thin an oil could result in hesitation. 10-40 will probably >be > OK, though different folks have different preferences, depending on the >fine > tuning of the car. Some use ATF (which is thinner) or straight 30 weight. > Having oil (other than gear oil!!) in the dashpot is certainly better than > none, the weight can be varied to suit. > > To remove the oil is simple. [Keep everything nice and clean.] >* Unscrew and remove the top cap and damper rod/piston. >* Unscrew and remove the retaining screws for the suction chamber body. >* Pull the suction chamber straight up along the axis of the damper rod. A > small amount of twisting back and forth of the chamber may help get it > started. The main piston should stay in place on the carburetor. (If it > comes with the chamber, no big deal, just gently pull it out by hand.) >* Gently pull straight up on the carb piston until free, knowing that there > is a "long" brass needle that must also come free. Do not bend, scratch or > otherwise abuse the needle or John Twist will beat you with a stick. Dump > out the old oil. Add the oil of choice. > > A couple of points: >- Don't force anything! The British have an expression of "offering" one > part to another during reassembly. If it doesn't go easily, back up and >look > at it closely and see what must be wrong before trying again. >- A helpful book, out of print, but often available on eBay or Barnes and > Noble used books is Tuning SU Carburetters, Speedsport Motorbooks, ISBN > 85113-072-0. Any edition will do, but 3rd edition (1975) goes into later >SUs > with emission controls. There are other SU books out there, get one. > > Best luck, and be careful, it's a jungle out there! >Pete Thiel >'53 TD >_______________________________________________ >mgcharlie at comcast.net > >Mg-t at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > >Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From rddell at mindspring.com Wed Nov 7 14:13:46 2007 From: rddell at mindspring.com (Dick Dell) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 16:13:46 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] Carb oil Message-ID: <001e01c82183$15a0a0e0$660fa8c0@GATEWAY> I have not caught all of the posts on this topic and someone else may have brought this up already. I have had my "TF" and many, many other British cars over the past 40 years. I have always used Marvel Mystery Oil in the carbs in all weather, from the mountains of New Jersey to the warmer clime of North Carolina, where I live now along with the MGTF, Jag E-type, TR3 and a Jensen Healey. All of them have Marvel Mystery Oil in the carbs, all start and run great. I experimented many years ago and found issues with any of the motor oils as carb oil, mostly due to the change in viscosity. MMO seems to change density with temperature at just the right rate of change. Also, if you ever have to free up a stuck engine that has been sitting for awhile, fill the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it seep past the rings for a day or two. The results are miraculous. Dick Dell From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 7 14:39:04 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 15:39:04 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] Carb oil In-Reply-To: <001e01c82183$15a0a0e0$660fa8c0@GATEWAY> References: <001e01c82183$15a0a0e0$660fa8c0@GATEWAY> Message-ID: I also use Marvel Mystery oil in my carbs. I also add a small amount to my tank every so often and it seems to keep both my grouse jets and float valves (I have multiple cars) from sticking. While the contents are a mystery, hence the name, the product was designed to clean out the jets of carbs during WWI when gas had high lead content. They recommend 4 oz per ten gal of gas with your fill up. I guess it is supposed to reduce varnish from the gas. Mike On Nov 7, 2007, at 3:13 PM, Dick Dell wrote: > I have not caught all of the posts on this topic and someone else > may have > brought this up already. > > I have had my "TF" and many, many other British cars over the past > 40 years. I > have always used Marvel Mystery Oil in the carbs in all weather, > from the > mountains of New Jersey to the warmer clime of North Carolina, > where I live > now along with the MGTF, Jag E-type, TR3 and a Jensen Healey. > > All of them have Marvel Mystery Oil in the carbs, all start and run > great. I > experimented many years ago and found issues with any of the motor > oils as > carb oil, mostly due to the change in viscosity. MMO seems to > change density > with temperature at just the right rate of change. > > Also, if you ever have to free up a stuck engine that has been > sitting for > awhile, fill the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it seep > past the > rings for a day or two. The results are miraculous. > > Dick Dell > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From TATERRY at aol.com Wed Nov 7 17:25:35 2007 From: TATERRY at aol.com (TATERRY at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 19:25:35 EST Subject: [Mg-t] Carb oil Message-ID: The PO of the TC I still have to finish restoring left me a gallon of "Refridgerator oil" He claimed this stuff is not temperature sensative. Anyone know for sure? I'd need a Ouija Board to talk to him nowadays!! Terry in Oakland


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See what's new at http://www.aol.com From duvallcom at sbcglobal.net Wed Nov 7 18:29:32 2007 From: duvallcom at sbcglobal.net (Mike Duvall) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 19:29:32 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] refrigerator oil In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <435670A2-7046-47C9-BB10-D43C35F81099@sbcglobal.net> I don't think it is possible for an oil or liquid to temperature insensitive. I think refrigerator oil simply is low viscosity oil. Maybe it has polymers in it like multivisocity oils do. It seems to me that the range of operating temps of a fridge wouldn't be as great as an engine in sub freezing temps. Any chemists on the list? On Nov 7, 2007, at 6:25 PM, TATERRY at aol.com wrote: > The PO of the TC I still have to finish restoring left me a gallon of > "Refridgerator oil" He claimed this stuff is not temperature > sensative. > Anyone know for sure? I'd need a Ouija Board to talk to him > nowadays!! > Terry in > Oakland


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See > what's new at > http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From TATERRY at aol.com Wed Nov 7 19:08:02 2007 From: TATERRY at aol.com (TATERRY at aol.com) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 21:08:02 EST Subject: [Mg-t] refrigerator oil----Correction Message-ID: I had the wrong oil in mind......what my PO, Bill Phy, recommended was Vacuum pump oil which does not change viscosity with temperature....20 or 30 weight. A quart should last you a life time! Terry in Oakland


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See what's new at http://www.aol.com From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 20:03:40 2007 From: spook01 at comcast.net (ray) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 21:03:40 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] refrigerator oil In-Reply-To: <435670A2-7046-47C9-BB10-D43C35F81099@sbcglobal.net> References: <435670A2-7046-47C9-BB10-D43C35F81099@sbcglobal.net> Message-ID: <3B5507B1C6424E9B991EAE9DA50625DF@carolPC> why not use "bicycle oil" ( same as sewing machine oil) like SU specified? i haven't found a fridge under the hood yet......... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Duvall" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 7:29 PM Subject: [Mg-t] refrigerator oil >I don't think it is possible for an oil or liquid to temperature > insensitive. I think refrigerator oil simply is low viscosity oil. > Maybe it has polymers in it like multivisocity oils do. It seems to > me that the range of operating temps of a fridge wouldn't be as great > as an engine in sub freezing temps. > > Any chemists on the list? > > On Nov 7, 2007, at 6:25 PM, TATERRY at aol.com wrote: > >> The PO of the TC I still have to finish restoring left me a gallon of >> "Refridgerator oil" He claimed this stuff is not temperature >> sensative. >> Anyone know for sure? I'd need a Ouija Board to talk to him >> nowadays!! >> Terry in >> Oakland


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See >> what's new at >> http://www.aol.com >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From spook01 at comcast.net Wed Nov 7 20:05:53 2007 From: spook01 at comcast.net (ray) Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2007 21:05:53 -0600 Subject: [Mg-t] Carb oil In-Reply-To: References: <001e01c82183$15a0a0e0$660fa8c0@GATEWAY> Message-ID: <385478E528AD4C1CB41EF033645B1DA5@carolPC> be careful how much you add.... it had some interesting results in the burb. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Duvall" To: Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 3:39 PM Subject: Re: [Mg-t] Carb oil >I also use Marvel Mystery oil in my carbs. I also add a small amount > to my tank every so often and it seems to keep both my grouse jets > and float valves (I have multiple cars) from sticking. While the > contents are a mystery, hence the name, the product was designed to > clean out the jets of carbs during WWI when gas had high lead > content. They recommend 4 oz per ten gal of gas with your fill up. > I guess it is supposed to reduce varnish from the gas. > > Mike > > > > On Nov 7, 2007, at 3:13 PM, Dick Dell wrote: > >> I have not caught all of the posts on this topic and someone else >> may have >> brought this up already. >> >> I have had my "TF" and many, many other British cars over the past >> 40 years. I >> have always used Marvel Mystery Oil in the carbs in all weather, >> from the >> mountains of New Jersey to the warmer clime of North Carolina, >> where I live >> now along with the MGTF, Jag E-type, TR3 and a Jensen Healey. >> >> All of them have Marvel Mystery Oil in the carbs, all start and run >> great. I >> experimented many years ago and found issues with any of the motor >> oils as >> carb oil, mostly due to the change in viscosity. MMO seems to >> change density >> with temperature at just the right rate of change. >> >> Also, if you ever have to free up a stuck engine that has been >> sitting for >> awhile, fill the cylinders with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it seep >> past the >> rings for a day or two. The results are miraculous. >> >> Dick Dell >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> Mg-t at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t >> >> Archives at http://www.team.net/archive > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Mg-t at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-t > > Archives at http://www.team.net/archive From KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com Thu Nov 8 14:39:18 2007 From: KRISLYNCO.LLC at roadrunner.com (KRISLYN COMPANY) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 16:39:18 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] AMP METER Message-ID: <001401c8224f$d3cbaac0$6601a8c0@CompaqXPHome> hello again............ Well the speedy sleeve worked perfectly on the front balancer seal she's dry as a bone!!!! I actually have an MG TD XPAG motor that hasn't a leak anywhere....(and yes there is oil in it...I think!!) I cant help but wonder if the moss (Timkin) front seal doesnt really require the speedy sleeve anyways as the seal truly is generic to the car and my balancer was not scored or pitted at all. Can anyone comment on why the amp meter pings all over the place (mostly upward) with each tick of the rocker valves in the motor.... shouldn't it be just still and steady when charging ? Any thoughts on a fix?? Thanks as always. Rocky From mgbob at juno.com Thu Nov 8 14:56:34 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 16:56:34 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] AMP METER Message-ID: <20071108.170341.3172.22.MGBOB@juno.com> Hi Rocky, How nice to have an engine that is oil-free on the outside. Watch out for rust. The front seal I purchased from Moss worked fine first time in, w/o the speedy sleeve or any thing else done to the pulley. Whatever the cause, it's good to have the leak ended. The ammeter should jiggle a bit as the regulator's points snap open and closed to regulate the current, but it's just a jiggle, a small amount. I have seen major spikes of the needle when the ground wire from gearbox to chassis was loose. I tested it by rigging another ground from a bolt on the engine somewhere to chassis. That resolved the spiking, and confirmed the ground at gearbox to be at fault. Bob On Thu, 8 Nov 2007 16:39:18 -0500 "KRISLYN COMPANY" writes: > hello again............ > Well the speedy sleeve worked perfectly on the front balancer seal > she's dry > as a bone!!!! I actually have an MG TD XPAG motor that hasn't a > leak > anywhere....(and yes there is oil in it...I think!!) I cant help > but wonder > if the moss (Timkin) front seal doesnt really require the speedy > sleeve > anyways as the seal truly is generic to the car and my balancer was > not scored > or pitted at all. > > Can anyone comment on why the amp meter pings all over the place > (mostly > upward) with each tick of the rocker valves in the motor.... > shouldn't it be > just still and steady when charging ? Any thoughts on a fix?? > > Thanks as always. > Rocky From TATERRY at aol.com Tue Nov 13 12:29:37 2007 From: TATERRY at aol.com (TATERRY at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 14:29:37 EST Subject: [Mg-t] Tach reduction gearbox Message-ID: Did I read somewhere that the coupling has to have a washer inside the nut to keep the unit tight against the dynamo?? Terry in Oakland


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See what's new at http://www.aol.com From kingseim at earthlink.net Tue Nov 13 12:38:12 2007 From: kingseim at earthlink.net (John Seim) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 11:38:12 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] Tach reduction gearbox In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <066487a18e3976f9b0670b1571d33a16@earthlink.net> Originally, it was a copper washer. With modern technology, an o-ring placed inside the nut, will provide friction, and allow for a non-moving coupling of the tach drive gearbox to the generator end. John Seim Irvine, CA On Nov 13, 2007, at 11:29 AM, TATERRY at aol.com wrote: > Did I read somewhere that the coupling has to have a washer inside the > nut to > keep the unit tight against the dynamo?? > Terry in Oakland


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> See what's new at > http://www.aol.com > _______________________________________________ From ddubois at sinclair.net Tue Nov 13 14:38:16 2007 From: ddubois at sinclair.net (Dave and Liz DuBois) Date: Tue, 13 Nov 2007 13:38:16 -0800 Subject: [Mg-t] Tach reduction gearbox In-Reply-To: <066487a18e3976f9b0670b1571d33a16@earthlink.net> References: <066487a18e3976f9b0670b1571d33a16@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <473A1948.4020305@sinclair.net> Also check that the outer diameter of the boss that the coupler attaches to is is not excessively worn or you will not be able to tighten the coupler sufficiently to keep the gear box from turning. Cheers, Dave From Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz Sun Nov 18 13:55:19 2007 From: Douglas.Ormrod at neurological.org.nz (Douglas Ormrod) Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2007 09:55:19 +1300 Subject: [Mg-t] (no subject) Message-ID: <0888574CFACE3D4CB359CDCF21585B502D7C16@NFSVR01.neurological.local> Hi T people I am entering our national interclub concourse in the new year - always said I never would, but all they had to do as ask and my ego was sufficiently stroked to say yes immediately. So now I am going to get all anal about originality and start polishing the exhaust system on the inside with cotton buds! Only going to do it once though - the TF and TB that won the even last year have not turned a wheel since and I like to drive mine. My 51 TD has the standard steel wheels. The road wheels hubcaps have the small cast medallions, but I saw a picture of a car with a TD enameled MG radiator badge on the spare wheel hubcap, and thought "that looks cool" so fitted one myself. My question is - was that badge ever an original option on the spare wheel hubcap? Cheers Douglas From mgbob at juno.com Sun Nov 18 15:26:58 2007 From: mgbob at juno.com (Bob Howard) Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2007 17:26:58 -0500 Subject: [Mg-t] (no subject) Message-ID: <20071118.172731.3000.7.MGBOB@juno.com> Douglas, The badge on the spare tire hubcap was the standard badge except on MkII cars after #22613, according to the parts book. That badge was black&white, and appears larger than the radiator shell badge. Bob #22308 MkII > > My 51 TD has the standard steel wheels. The road wheels hubcaps have > the small cast medallions, but I saw a picture of a car with a TD > enameled MG radiator badge on the spare wheel hubcap, and thought "that > looks cool" so fitted one myself. My question is - was that badge ever an > original option on the spare wheel hubcap? > > > > Cheers > > > > Douglas