From c.bucknell at bigpond.com  Sat Feb 13 02:48:29 2010
From: c.bucknell at bigpond.com (Chris Bucknell)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 20:18:29 +1030
Subject: [Mg-mmm] Spoke Replacement and Wheel Truing
Message-ID: <4E1BCBE6A13C4435AF0BC10ABC757776@HOMECOMPUTER>

Hi All,

 

Not getting a lot of help out of the forum in England so far so I thought I
would try you guys.

 

I am respoking some 15 inch race wheels for our pre-war Racer.  I want to
know what the out of round tolerance should be and the axial wobble
tolerance.  Hopefully everyone can work out what I am talking about.

 

I have a hub mounted on a jig and am able to measure the out of round and
the axial wobble  by a dial gauge.

 

I have gotten down to 50 thou for the out of round and 130 thou for the
axial wobble.  At what point is enough enough?

 

Chris

From clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com  Sat Feb 13 03:44:07 2010
From: clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com (Clive Sherriff)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 10:44:07 -0000
Subject: [Mg-mmm] Spoke Replacement and Wheel Truing
References: <4E1BCBE6A13C4435AF0BC10ABC757776@HOMECOMPUTER>
Message-ID: <3D582BB77B3A49B28C49D8AE5C7FEC28@cypress>

50 thou (about 1/16 inch) for the "out of round"
seems just about OK, but the 130 thou (1/8 inch),
if thats the best you can get,  seems to me to
indicate that the original rim is distorted somehow.

Why 15 inch rims, they are not VSCC eligible for
a pre war MG?

Clive
===========================================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Bucknell" <c.bucknell at bigpond.com>
To: "MMM List" <mg-mmm at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 9:48 AM
Subject: [Mg-mmm] Spoke Replacement and Wheel Truing


> Hi All,
>
>
>
> Not getting a lot of help out of the forum in England so far so I thought 
> I
> would try you guys.
>
>
>
> I am respoking some 15 inch race wheels for our pre-war Racer.  I want to
> know what the out of round tolerance should be and the axial wobble
> tolerance.  Hopefully everyone can work out what I am talking about.
>
>
>
> I have a hub mounted on a jig and am able to measure the out of round and
> the axial wobble  by a dial gauge.
>
>
>
> I have gotten down to 50 thou for the out of round and 130 thou for the
> axial wobble.  At what point is enough enough?
>
>
>
> Chris
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Mg-mmm at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-mmm
>
> You are subscribed as clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Sat Feb 13 06:03:41 2010
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 08:03:41 -0500
Subject: [Mg-mmm] Spoke Replacement and Wheel Truing
In-Reply-To: <3D582BB77B3A49B28C49D8AE5C7FEC28@cypress>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP44FD6A7C64BA5C6BC9E0EF924C0@phx.gbl>

Hi Chris,
I agree with Clive. New modern wire wheels have a maximum tolerance of 1.5
mm ( 0.060" ) in wobble and bounce. Most are manufactured to about 0.030"
wobble and bounce.   I think on a race car you should aim to be below those
maximum limits.
I have had 15" wheels on  3000 Healey that were 0.125" wobble and they
worked fine on a road car after proper balancing.  Probably not good enough
for a race car.
Try to get 0.050" or less on wobble.
Just as important is a proper wheel balance. I use an old static balancer
and find this works well for street wheels and race wheels. Better in fact
than most dynamic balanced wheels  that are not held properly in the balance
machine owned by the local corner garage.
Bob Grunau
Canada


50 thou (about 1/16 inch) for the "out of round"
seems just about OK, but the 130 thou (1/8 inch),
if thats the best you can get,  seems to me to
indicate that the original rim is distorted somehow.

Why 15 inch rims, they are not VSCC eligible for
a pre war MG?

Clive


> Hi All,
> Not getting a lot of help out of the forum in England so far so I thought
 I  would try you guys.
 I am respoking some 15 inch race wheels for our pre-war Racer.  I want to
 know what the out of round tolerance should be and the axial wobble
 tolerance.  Hopefully everyone can work out what I am talking about.
 I have a hub mounted on a jig and am able to measure the out of round and
 the axial wobble  by a dial gauge.
 I have gotten down to 50 thou for the out of round and 130 thou for the
 axial wobble.  At what point is enough enough?
 Chris

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Sat Feb 13 06:36:33 2010
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 08:36:33 -0500
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
In-Reply-To: <DEEPJCNBAOMPNKBHDLLIEEFCFLAA.grunau.garage@sympatico.ca>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP2941D69AD4C50A4EEB4234924C0@phx.gbl>

Hi MMMers,
Funny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as no emails for
many weeks, and then the email from "down under" appeared re wheels.

New topic, I have a spare PA almost complete engine and am looking for the
lower half of the front cam pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
same part. I have the top half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
lower half. Anybody have a spare?

Also looking for a foot operated starter switch for an MMM car. This is for
my collection of parts to make a J2 Special, long term project but thought I
would ask.

MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some inspection work and
planning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes KN 4 door pillarless from
California now in Canada .

Best regards from Canada where we still have had no appreciable snow this
winter.
Bob Grunau
PA0531
J3017
NA0686
KN0389

From clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com  Sat Feb 13 06:50:10 2010
From: clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com (Clive Sherriff)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 13:50:10 -0000
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
References: <BLU0-SMTP2941D69AD4C50A4EEB4234924C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4D3CBCC57BD5451F9B9A9BC392969B78@cypress>

Bob

Try and get the matched pair,  two random halves often dont fit.

Clive
===========================
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "BOB GRUNAU" <grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>
To: "Clive Sherriff" <clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com>; "Chris Bucknell" 
<c.bucknell at bigpond.com>; "MMM List" <mg-mmm at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 1:36 PM
Subject: PA/NA front cam stand


> Hi MMMers,
> Funny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as no emails for
> many weeks, and then the email from "down under" appeared re wheels.
>
> New topic, I have a spare PA almost complete engine and am looking for the
> lower half of the front cam pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
> same part. I have the top half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
> lower half. Anybody have a spare?
>
> Also looking for a foot operated starter switch for an MMM car. This is 
> for
> my collection of parts to make a J2 Special, long term project but thought 
> I
> would ask.
>
> MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some inspection work and
> planning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes KN 4 door pillarless 
> from
> California now in Canada .
>
> Best regards from Canada where we still have had no appreciable snow this
> winter.
> Bob Grunau
> PA0531
> J3017
> NA0686
> KN0389

From taterry at aol.com  Sat Feb 13 07:59:16 2010
From: taterry at aol.com (taterry at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 09:59:16 -0500
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP2941D69AD4C50A4EEB4234924C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CC7AD43F0A584B-AA8-1625D@webmail-d046.sysops.aol.com>

Bob, try vintage mg parts in UK for your cam stand....starter switches are
made out of some old Land Rover unit with an old looking button...Look forward
to seeing you in Ohio in June.
Terry






-----Original Message-----
From: BOB GRUNAU <grunau.garage at sympatico.ca>
To: Clive Sherriff <clive.sherriff at ntlworld.com>; Chris Bucknell
<c.bucknell at bigpond.com>; MMM List <mg-mmm at Autox.Team.Net>
Sent: Sat, Feb 13, 2010 5:36 am
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand


Hi MMMers,
unny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as no emails for
any weeks, and then the email from "down under" appeared re wheels.
New topic, I have a spare PA almost complete engine and am looking for the
ower half of the front cam pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
ame part. I have the top half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
ower half. Anybody have a spare?
Also looking for a foot operated starter switch for an MMM car. This is for
y collection of parts to make a J2 Special, long term project but thought I
ould ask.
MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some inspection work and
lanning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes KN 4 door pillarless from
alifornia now in Canada .
Best regards from Canada where we still have had no appreciable snow this
inter.
ob Grunau
A0531
3017
A0686
N0389
Mg-mmm at autox.team.net
ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-mmm
You are subscribed as taterry at aol.com
http://www.team.net/archive

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Sat Feb 13 10:32:05 2010
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:32:05 -0500
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
In-Reply-To: <4D3CBCC57BD5451F9B9A9BC392969B78@cypress>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP532D646E02F388C76D8C78924C0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Clive,
I am aware of that and would prefer to get the pair. So let me revise my
request for a pair, top and bottom, front cam stand for a PA/NA engine.

If I can find a bottom only, I expect to have to "fettle" the bore by
possibly changing the dowel pins and then line honing/boring all caps in
line.
Right now I have no bottom, so something to work with would help.

Now if you have a matching bottom and top surplus to your needs.  so much
the better.

I have on several occasions had to fit mis-match main bearing crank caps on
XPAG engines, no big deal, you get it as close as you can by filing one side
of the joint, then possibly brazing on  the other side to make up the
difference. then line bore. Works OK, just a nuisance.


NEW QUESTION:
Can someone please advise if all or any major parts of the MMM cars are
numbered to match the chassis?  I have found numbers on top of several rear
axle casings,  but these numbers do not seem to relate to the car.
Is the radiator numbered?
Radiator shell numbered?

The original bonnet hinge is obviously chassis numbered with the colour
coding. ,

Thanks to all that responded.
Bob Grunau
Canada

Try and get the matched pair,  two random halves often dont fit.

Clive

> Hi MMMers,
> Funny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as no emails for
> many weeks, and then the email from "down under" appeared re wheels.
>
> New topic, I have a spare PA almost complete engine and am looking for the
> lower half of the front cam pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
> same part. I have the top half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
> lower half. Anybody have a spare?
>
> Also looking for a foot operated starter switch for an MMM car. This is
> for
> my collection of parts to make a J2 Special, long term project but thought
> I
> would ask.
>
> MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some inspection work and
> planning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes KN 4 door pillarless
> from
> California now in Canada .
>
> Best regards from Canada where we still have had no appreciable snow this
> winter.
> Bob Grunau
> PA0531
> J3017
> NA0686
> KN0389

From DB35PA at aol.com  Sat Feb 13 10:54:54 2010
From: DB35PA at aol.com (DB35PA at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 12:54:54 EST
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
Message-ID: <873c.6cfb7508.38a8416e@aol.com>

Bob, 
On PA1823 I was able to verify against the Factory records (Dispatch Dept  
Form), 
Chassis
Engine
Starter
Body number
Gearbox number
Dynamo number
rear axle number
Bonnet Number
 
Of all the copies of various build papers, sales/delivery and after sales  
service repairs... no record of radiator number for mine.
 
Don B.
 
 
In a message dated 2/13/2010 11:29:49 Central Standard Time,  
grunau.garage at sympatico.ca writes:

Thanks  Clive,
I am aware of that and would prefer to get the pair. So let me  revise my
request for a pair, top and bottom, front cam stand for a PA/NA  engine.

If I can find a bottom only, I expect to have to "fettle" the  bore by
possibly changing the dowel pins and then line honing/boring all  caps in
line.
Right now I have no bottom, so something to work with  would help.

Now if you have a matching bottom and top surplus to your  needs.  so much
the better.

I have on several occasions had to  fit mis-match main bearing crank caps on
XPAG engines, no big deal, you get  it as close as you can by filing one 
side
of the joint, then possibly  brazing on  the other side to make up the
difference. then line bore.  Works OK, just a nuisance.


NEW QUESTION:
Can someone please  advise if all or any major parts of the MMM cars are
numbered to match the  chassis?  I have found numbers on top of several rear
axle  casings,  but these numbers do not seem to relate to the car.
Is the  radiator numbered?
Radiator shell numbered?

The original bonnet  hinge is obviously chassis numbered with the colour
coding. ,

Thanks  to all that responded.
Bob Grunau
Canada

Try and get the matched  pair,  two random halves often dont fit.

Clive

> Hi  MMMers,
> Funny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as  no emails 
for
> many weeks, and then the email from "down under"  appeared re wheels.
>
> New topic, I have a spare PA almost  complete engine and am looking for 
the
> lower half of the front cam  pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
> same part. I have the top  half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
> lower half. Anybody  have a spare?
>
> Also looking for a foot operated starter switch  for an MMM car. This is
> for
> my collection of parts to make a  J2 Special, long term project but 
thought
> I
> would  ask.
>
> MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some  inspection work and
> planning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes  KN 4 door pillarless
> from
> California now in Canada  .
>
> Best regards from Canada where we still have had no  appreciable snow this
> winter.
> Bob Grunau
>  PA0531
> J3017
> NA0686
>  KN0389
Mg-mmm at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-mmm

You  are subscribed as  db35pa at aol.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From bispmotala at hotmail.com  Sat Feb 13 14:17:11 2010
From: bispmotala at hotmail.com (bispmotala)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 22:17:11 +0100
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP532D646E02F388C76D8C78924C0@phx.gbl>
References: <4D3CBCC57BD5451F9B9A9BC392969B78@cypress>
	<BLU0-SMTP532D646E02F388C76D8C78924C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT123-DS16D5DBE05505260A8978B2DD4C0@phx.gbl>

Bob

I think you will find the numbers are casting numbers or part numbers as per
the relevant parts lists. The only numbers that were given are those on the
dispatch card, dynamo, gearbox, engine and chassis and body colour if I
remember correctly. Not sure about starter.

Also a memento about parts numbers. MMM times these were kept differently
than later.
These were very much correct at MMM times, a legacy of Morris and his
introduction of mass production in Europe in the 20s. A close study of some
parts manuals will teach you a lot as you no doubt already know.

Regards
Sven Sweden
L types TC 2875 and presently 40cm snow.

-----Ursprungligt meddelande-----
Fren: mg-mmm-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:mg-mmm-bounces at autox.team.net]
Fvr BOB GRUNAU
Skickat: den 13 februari 2010 18:32
Till: Clive Sherriff; Chris Bucknell; MMM List
Dmne: Re: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand

Thanks Clive,
I am aware of that and would prefer to get the pair. So let me revise my
request for a pair, top and bottom, front cam stand for a PA/NA engine.

If I can find a bottom only, I expect to have to "fettle" the bore by
possibly changing the dowel pins and then line honing/boring all caps in
line.
Right now I have no bottom, so something to work with would help.

Now if you have a matching bottom and top surplus to your needs.  so much
the better.

I have on several occasions had to fit mis-match main bearing crank caps on
XPAG engines, no big deal, you get it as close as you can by filing one side
of the joint, then possibly brazing on  the other side to make up the
difference. then line bore. Works OK, just a nuisance.


NEW QUESTION:
Can someone please advise if all or any major parts of the MMM cars are
numbered to match the chassis?  I have found numbers on top of several rear
axle casings,  but these numbers do not seem to relate to the car.
Is the radiator numbered?
Radiator shell numbered?

The original bonnet hinge is obviously chassis numbered with the colour
coding. ,

Thanks to all that responded.
Bob Grunau
Canada

Try and get the matched pair,  two random halves often dont fit.

Clive

> Hi MMMers,
> Funny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as no emails for
> many weeks, and then the email from "down under" appeared re wheels.
>
> New topic, I have a spare PA almost complete engine and am looking for the
> lower half of the front cam pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
> same part. I have the top half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
> lower half. Anybody have a spare?
>
> Also looking for a foot operated starter switch for an MMM car. This is
> for
> my collection of parts to make a J2 Special, long term project but thought
> I
> would ask.
>
> MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some inspection work and
> planning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes KN 4 door pillarless
> from
> California now in Canada .
>
> Best regards from Canada where we still have had no appreciable snow this
> winter.
> Bob Grunau
> PA0531
> J3017
> NA0686
> KN0389
Mg-mmm at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-mmm

You are subscribed as bispmotala at hotmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From grunau.garage at sympatico.ca  Sat Feb 13 15:34:53 2010
From: grunau.garage at sympatico.ca (BOB GRUNAU)
Date: Sat, 13 Feb 2010 17:34:53 -0500
Subject: [Mg-mmm] PA/NA front cam stand
In-Reply-To: <SNT123-DS16D5DBE05505260A8978B2DD4C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP9982A907D18EE220EEAB18924C0@phx.gbl>

Hi Sven,
The 42" track front axle I have has "18686" cast into it, so that is a
casting number. The MG part number for the front axle is P234/100, same as
for PA. I don't know what the casting number "18686 "  means, anybody know?
It is not necessarily a J2 axle as I bought a collection of parts, including
a chassis, from Dick Knudson and the axles may not be connected to the
chassis.

The rer axle banjos I have are stamped numbers on the top center, but these
are hard to read and I don't know what the numbers mean.

best regards from Mississauga/Toronto Canada where we have hadf all of about
6 cm snow all winter in total. Still no MG driving as the salt trucks are
out every time it looks like snow.
Bob Grunau

Bob

I think you will find the numbers are casting numbers or part numbers as per
the relevant parts lists. The only numbers that were given are those on the
dispatch card, dynamo, gearbox, engine and chassis and body colour if I
remember correctly. Not sure about starter.

Also a memento about parts numbers. MMM times these were kept differently
than later.
These were very much correct at MMM times, a legacy of Morris and his
introduction of mass production in Europe in the 20s. A close study of some
parts manuals will teach you a lot as you no doubt already know.

Regards
Sven Sweden
L types TC 2875 and presently 40cm snow.

Thanks Clive,
I am aware of that and would prefer to get the pair. So let me revise my
request for a pair, top and bottom, front cam stand for a PA/NA engine.

If I can find a bottom only, I expect to have to "fettle" the bore by
possibly changing the dowel pins and then line honing/boring all caps in
line.
Right now I have no bottom, so something to work with would help.

Now if you have a matching bottom and top surplus to your needs.  so much
the better.

I have on several occasions had to fit mis-match main bearing crank caps on
XPAG engines, no big deal, you get it as close as you can by filing one side
of the joint, then possibly brazing on  the other side to make up the
difference. then line bore. Works OK, just a nuisance.


NEW QUESTION:
Can someone please advise if all or any major parts of the MMM cars are
numbered to match the chassis?  I have found numbers on top of several rear
axle casings,  but these numbers do not seem to relate to the car.
Is the radiator numbered?
Radiator shell numbered?

The original bonnet hinge is obviously chassis numbered with the colour
coding. ,

Thanks to all that responded.
Bob Grunau
Canada

Try and get the matched pair,  two random halves often dont fit.

Clive

> Hi MMMers,
> Funny, I thought this morning that all MMMers were asleep as no emails for
> many weeks, and then the email from "down under" appeared re wheels.
>
> New topic, I have a spare PA almost complete engine and am looking for the
> lower half of the front cam pedestal for a P or N engine as they are the
> same part. I have the top half gear cover for the pedestal, just need the
> lower half. Anybody have a spare?
>
> Also looking for a foot operated starter switch for an MMM car. This is
> for
> my collection of parts to make a J2 Special, long term project but thought
> I
> would ask.
>
> MG KN0389 is safe and in a heated garage and some inspection work and
> planning has started. This is the ex Windom Estes KN 4 door pillarless
> from
> California now in Canada .
>
> Best regards from Canada where we still have had no appreciable snow this
> winter.
> Bob Grunau
> PA0531
> J3017
> NA0686
> KN0389
Mg-mmm at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mg-mmm

You are subscribed as bispmotala at hotmail.com

http://www.team.net/archive


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From c.bucknell at bigpond.com  Sat Feb 13 17:18:30 2010
From: c.bucknell at bigpond.com (Chris Bucknell)
Date: Sun, 14 Feb 2010 10:48:30 +1030
Subject: [Mg-mmm] Spoke Replacement and Wheel Truing
In-Reply-To: <BLU0-SMTP44FD6A7C64BA5C6BC9E0EF924C0@phx.gbl>
References: <3D582BB77B3A49B28C49D8AE5C7FEC28@cypress>
	<BLU0-SMTP44FD6A7C64BA5C6BC9E0EF924C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <336767ED61B941098398A373C72F7123@HOMECOMPUTER>

Thanks to all.

I will get below 30 thou and try for 10 (you have set me a challenge Pete).

Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: BOB GRUNAU [mailto:grunau.garage at sympatico.ca] 
Sent: Saturday, 13 February 2010 11:34 PM
To: Clive Sherriff; Chris Bucknell; MMM List
Subject: RE: [Mg-mmm] Spoke Replacement and Wheel Truing

Hi Chris,
I agree with Clive. New modern wire wheels have a maximum tolerance of 1.5
mm ( 0.060" ) in wobble and bounce. Most are manufactured to about 0.030"
wobble and bounce.   I think on a race car you should aim to be below those
maximum limits.
I have had 15" wheels on  3000 Healey that were 0.125" wobble and they
worked fine on a road car after proper balancing.  Probably not good enough
for a race car.
Try to get 0.050" or less on wobble.
Just as important is a proper wheel balance. I use an old static balancer
and find this works well for street wheels and race wheels. Better in fact
than most dynamic balanced wheels  that are not held properly in the balance
machine owned by the local corner garage.
Bob Grunau
Canada


50 thou (about 1/16 inch) for the "out of round"
seems just about OK, but the 130 thou (1/8 inch),
if thats the best you can get,  seems to me to
indicate that the original rim is distorted somehow.

Why 15 inch rims, they are not VSCC eligible for
a pre war MG?

Clive


> Hi All,
> Not getting a lot of help out of the forum in England so far so I thought
 I  would try you guys.
 I am respoking some 15 inch race wheels for our pre-war Racer.  I want to
 know what the out of round tolerance should be and the axial wobble
 tolerance.  Hopefully everyone can work out what I am talking about.
 I have a hub mounted on a jig and am able to measure the out of round and
 the axial wobble  by a dial gauge.
 I have gotten down to 50 thou for the out of round and 130 thou for the
 axial wobble.  At what point is enough enough?
 Chris

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From magnut_dan at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 16 10:15:42 2010
From: magnut_dan at hotmail.com (Daniel Shockey)
Date: Tue, 16 Feb 2010 17:15:42 +0000
Subject: [Mg-mmm] Pre-War MG Cold Weather Attire
Message-ID: <COL111-W64E93D69CBC160307EBB11FF490@phx.gbl>

The list is quiet this time of year, so...

Returning from Wisconsin following the GoF (Central) early one morning in late
September, I was very glad to have my leather flying-style jacket and
fleece-lined aviator cap. I didnt want to erect the top so was wearing all
the clothes I brought. I was driving my TD on that occasion.

When we left California to return to Illinois, after 29 years on the West
Coast, our MG club (the MG Owners Club based in the San Francisco Bay Area)
gave me an English-made leather flying helmet. It is a wonderful gift; I
didnt realize they would be so glad to be rid of me! The winters here have
returned to being long and cold, and I found myself wearing the flying cap
when it was frigid, below zero degrees Fahrenheit. I even wore it sledding
this Christmas. Add a ski mask and sometimes ski goggles and it is really
warm.

I look for leather flying jackets at garage sales and thrift stores. They are
not uncommon, although usually in small or medium sizes. I saw a lovely
reproduction yesterday for $5 at Goodwill, made by an original WWII American
maker, unfortunately in Korea. However it was too small and had the zipper on
the wrong side! I purchased a bomber-style leather jacket (without fleece) at
Penneys after Christmas, marked down to $50. It is a really nice jacket with
rich leather, with a name brand but made in China. Flying jackets appear
popular now. A college professor friend in her 50s wears a nice one most the
winter.

I decided I could have the feel of driving my MG during these long cold
winters, while the MGs hibernate, by dressing like it. I came across a
Chinese-made ear-flap cap that I purchased to save wear on my special one. It
is good leather trimmed in rabbit fur. It is more artic-explorer style with
snapped flaps in front and over the ears. It has good length to cover all your
neck. The flap has been useful when walking into a blizzard or sleet, or
blocking snow-blindness. I walk an hour or so outdoors every day, whatever the
weather. I find that dressing right keeps it fun and makes me feel it is an
adventure. There is no one else out to laugh at how I am dressed. And I have a
padded helmet on my head for when next I fall on the ice.

When I first got the P-type, I ordered a pair of inexpensive leather
flying-style caps from Whitney. These are for motorcyclists but were American
made. My father joined me at GoF West in Monterey where we wore them around
the Sears Point track. Dad still wears his when it is very cold. He calls it a
Lindy Cap. I like to keep an inexpensive flying cap handy in the MGs.

The cap from China came from The Sportsmans Guide who also sell interesting
military surplus gear like warm mittens. It was $30. (I can only wish I had
commercial interest in anything.) Has anyone out there found deals on caps or
jackets, especially ones made in America or Europe? I hope to get the MGs for
a run soon.

Best regards,

Dan Shockey
Wyoming, Illinois
PA2108


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