[Land-speed] Front suspension settings

[Skip Higginbotham]

Neil,
Good ideas. With air ride it should be easier to do on the frontend machine.
Skip
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <neil at dbelltech.com>
To: "Kirkwood" <saltfever at comcast.net>
Cc: "land-speed" <land-speed at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 31, 2012 12:53
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] Front suspension settings


>> Skip:  Not sure of the target speed but if you assume a dynamic down 
>> force
>> of 500-600lbs a lot of things move in that front end sheet metal when it
>> starts to squat. You definitely don't want it to move to a toe-out
>> condition
>> and the only way to prevent that it to crank in some static toe-in. My
>> estimate would be about 1/8" toe. Also, you could test it in the garage 
>> by
>> loading some sand bags and then measuring to see which way it 
>> moves. -Kirk
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
>> "Re: Contents of Land-speed digest..."
>> ------------------------------------------------------------
>> What should the alignment settings be? I would suggest:
>> Toe............0
>> Scrub radius +/- 1/4" with 0 being optimum.
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> Skip;
>
> The car I'm building is completely different from your Camaro so my front
> suspension settings would not help you; however, the principles still
> apply. You definitely want to see how your wheels move over the full range
> of your suspension travel to make sure nothing bad is taking place. As an
> alternative to the sandbag method, I'd suggest you get your Camaro up on
> jack stands and remove the front springs. This way you can move the wheels
> from full bump to full droop. I'd use a small jack to raise the a-arms up
> in 1/2" increments and measure the toe, camber, and caster at each point.
> Do both sides. Look especially for toe change in bump (above your normal
> ride height ); zero toe change is the best but minimize it as best you
> can. Normally the height of the steering box is moved changed to change
> the toe curve but the steering arm/ball joint can be shimmed to do the
> same thing. In your case the change in camber and caster is acedemic since
> you are using (presumably) the factory geometry.
>
> Regards, Neil  temporarily in Ouray, CO
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