[Land-speed] rollcage welding

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Benn 
Cut off the bottom, weld the top, sleeve and re-weld the bottom piece. 
Jack 



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Dymaxion " < david_dymaxion @yahoo.com> 
To: land-speed@ autox .team.net 
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2009 11:20:53 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific 
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] rollcage welding 

This might help (apologies if this has already been mentioned): 

o Cut holes in the floor 
o Drop the tubes done the holes, lowering things for working room 
o Weld things up 
o Raise the cage 
o Slide the pads under the tubes, covering the holes 

Message: 2 
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 11:09:07 -0800 
From: "Benn" < karhu @ california .com> 
Subject: Re: [Land-speed] rollcage welding 
To: <land-speed@ autox .team.net> 
Message-ID: <2BE417A28E6E4308BB8A7B664D872A21@ BennsDesktop > 
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset ="iso-8859-1"; 
reply-type=response 

Thanks for the response, Dave. 
I don't think it'll be possible to get more than the main bar with some sleeve stubs removed from the car temporarily--any significant extensions just won't have enough room to maneuver. 

I do kinda like the "slide it forward" approach: But I'm trying to get the main hoop as tall as possible, and that means it fits behind the roof reinforcement at the rear of the T-tops. I also only can move it forward about 4" (need up to 8" to get the main hoop into the dooropening ) without moving the front hoop closer to the main hoop, since the front hoop will othewise run into the A-pillar. 

Hmm , maybe the main hoop could be pivoted about its top without the front hoop attached. Some puzzle-fitting may work by moving some bar positions a few inches... Thanks for the thoughts--I may need to use some combination of all these approaches. 

So is the implication that I'd need at least "several" inches clearance to a wall to get a good weld around the circumference of the side bars? 
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