[Land-speed] rollcage welding

[Bryan Savage]

Buy a good 3" hole saw and get a Milwaukee 1/2" drill. Drill holes, save 
metal,
have welder stick the holes back before he's done. Screw the body, the 
cage is
100 times more valuable and important.
Just my opinion,
Bryan
PS: pay a GOOD welder to help solve the problem.




Benn wrote:
> Thanks for the response, Dave.
> I don't think it'll be possible to get more than the main bar with 
> some sleeve stubs removed from the car temporarily--any significant 
> extensions just won't have enough room to maneuver.
>
> I do kinda like the "slide it forward" approach:   But I'm trying to 
> get the main hoop as tall as possible, and that means it fits behind 
> the roof reinforcement at the rear of the T-tops.  I also only can 
> move it forward about 4" (need up to 8" to get the main hoop into the 
> door opening) without moving the front hoop closer to the main hoop, 
> since the front hoop will othewise run into the A-pillar.
>
> Hmm, maybe the main hoop could be pivoted about its top without the 
> front hoop attached.   Some puzzle-fitting may work by moving some bar 
> positions a few inches...  Thanks for the thoughts--I may need to use 
> some combination of all these approaches.
>
> So is the implication that I'd need at least "several" inches 
> clearance to a wall to get a good weld around the circumference of the 
> side bars?
> Benn