<div dir="ltr"><div>I bought a used one from ebay, cleaned it up and no leaks. Some rubbing compound on the tapered seat did the job. I then cleaned up my original so now I have a spare.</div><div>Pat Williams </div><div>1960 BT7</div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Aug 18, 2026 at 2:03 PM <<a href="mailto:healeys-request@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-request@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
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1. Heater control tap (<a href="mailto:dwernervt@gmail.com" target="_blank">dwernervt@gmail.com</a>)<br>
2. Re: Heater control tap (Michael Salter)<br>
3. Re: Heater control tap (Bob Spidell)<br>
<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: <a href="mailto:dwernervt@gmail.com" target="_blank">dwernervt@gmail.com</a><br>To: Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>, fredwescoe@gmail<br>Cc: <br>Bcc: <br>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2026 17:41:32 -0400<br>Subject: [Healeys] Heater control tap<br>I was tired of trying to make this process work. A new valve deemed worthless. <br>
So I had this plate made up. It’s brass. You can get all the rest of the valve parts at a local hardware store. Certainly not concours, but I was just sick and tired. <br>
I have two left. <br>
Dan Werner<br>
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Sent from my iPhone<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>><br>To: "<a href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net" target="_blank">gradea1@charter.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net" target="_blank">gradea1@charter.net</a>>, Fred Wescoe <<a href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com" target="_blank">fredwescoe@gmail.com</a>>, healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>Cc: <br>Bcc: <br>Date: Mon, 17 Aug 2026 22:23:05 +0000<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater control tap<br>
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If you don't use the heater just filĺ the whole thing with solder. </div>
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<div id="m_1284476274519783505m_-4914134834398389606divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Hank Leach via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, 17 August 2026 13:37:25<br>
<b>To:</b> Fred Wescoe <<a href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com" target="_blank">fredwescoe@gmail.com</a>>; healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater control tap</font>
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<div>Fred-at 192 smackers I would first try to clean the valve. Take off the cotter (setpin) and spring and remove the handle valve. Clean al the debris, then assemble the two parts back together with some pumice, valve seating paste, maybe Pepsodent toothpaste
as a final, grinding the two parts back and forth to bed in the two parts. Since its brass it smooths easily. If you can replace the spring and cotter that would be good. That may work to stop the leaking. Replace with a new base washer and see if that prevents
you from opening your wallet to get some expensive, questionable aftermarket item. (others may not agree-worked for me on my 100) Hank<br>
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From: "Fred Wescoe" <<a href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com" target="_blank">fredwescoe@gmail.com</a>> <br>
To: "healeys" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> <br>
Sent: August 17, 2026 at 8:28 AM PDT <br>
Subject: [Healeys] Heater control tap </div>
<div>Listers,
<div> </div>
<div>I am looking for a heater control tap for my 66 BJ8. This is the water shutoff valve from the block that controls the flow of water to the heater, Moss part # 835-620.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Does anyone have one they would sell or does anyone know a source other than Moss?</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Thanks,</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Fred</div>
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<br><br><br>---------- Forwarded message ----------<br>From: Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>To: <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>Cc: <br>Bcc: <br>Date: Tue, 18 Aug 2026 09:04:13 -0700<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Heater control tap<br><u></u>
<div>
Years ago, I bought a couple tap handles--the part most likely to
break--from Bob Yule at Autofarm. He was the only vendor I could
find that supplied that part, so check with him.<br>
<br>
Note: The valves can often be 'rebuilt' by polishing the conical
seat with some fine sandpaper.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
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<div>On 8/17/2026 8:01 AM, Fred Wescoe
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Listers,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I am looking for a heater control tap for my 66 BJ8. This
is the water shutoff valve from the block that controls the
flow of water to the heater, Moss part # 835-620.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><font color="#838d97" face="Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif">Does anyone have
one they would sell or does anyone know a source other than
Moss?</font></div>
<div><font color="#838d97" face="Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font color="#838d97" face="Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif">Thanks,</font></div>
<div><font color="#838d97" face="Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif"><br>
</font></div>
<div><font color="#838d97" face="Lato, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif">Fred</font></div>
<br>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
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