<div dir="auto">I would also strongly suggest that you examine and replace the nylon/plastic bushing at the bottom of the shift lever.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">My transmission was not shifting into 1st and 2nd gear was difficult. </div><div dir="auto">In hindsight there was also some scraping metal noises.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I of course needlessly pulled my transmission before I found out the bushing was gone and the spring was shifted (most likely by me trying to force it into gear as I was 30 miles from home.</div><div dir="auto">Since it was out I replaced all the normal consumable parts.</div><div dir="auto">It was a expensive lesson 😳</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Tom Mitchell <br></div><div dir="auto">Ann Arbor Mi.</div><div dir="auto">65 BJ8</div><div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Aug 16, 2026 at 9:47 AM Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com">michael.salter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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Yes Simon you can remove that plate and the rubber boot to get a better view of the release bearing and fork without risk of anything falling off.</div>
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If you remove the slave cylinder its all a lot easier. </div>
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Good luck installing the replacement conical spring on the shift lever, it's not easy. </div>
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<div id="m_-3685818747709958713divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Simon Lachlan via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, 16 August 2026 09:03:26<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] Noise on engaging the clutch revisited</font>
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<div>I have been away and am back home and hoping to deal with the previously discussed issue.</div>
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<li>The process is somewhat stalled as I discovered that the spring, 127, was broken. How, when, why…I don’t know. I was not aware of it being broken.</li></ol>
<div style="padding-left:36pt">Anyhow, I’ve ordered another and won’t proceed until it’s installed. Now, first question….could that spring being broken cause something to misalign and cause the noise?? Personally, I doubt it and am aware of the clutching at
straws here.</div>
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<li>There is a convenient little hole near/under the slave cylinder. I was able to stick my endoscope in there and see a (very) little of what is going on. Second question….if one of the spring clips that locate the release bearing was not properly located,
could the bearing operate at all?? Surely, it’s both on and all’s well or failure if one comes off??? Hard to tell, but the innermost clip may not have been on correctly. But, again, it would either be 100% on or 100% off in which case it would be lying on
the bottom of the housing???</li></ol>
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<li>The plate, above and item 14 in the diagram. Can I remove it happy in the knowledge that I’ll be able to put it back on easily and without losing some vital little bit?? I seem to recall that the so-called “screws-retaining plate” can’t do anything other
than thread into the casing?? Hence, they’re called “screws”?? Were I able to ease that away from the casing I could very probably get a better view on things by eye or by endoscope.
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<div style="padding-left:36pt">Thanks for your patience, Simon</div>
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