<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Update</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Thanks to all for good suggestions.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">So opted for the inertia hammer beating method after being able to get an open ended wrench from Amazon. Did the best I could with a 3lb hammer in the limited space. Was reassured when Harold found a Churchill tool with a note that stated no need to "lock the crank" with this tool - so that was how the factory did it. After about 20 mins of hammering it was as tight as it could be while still in the car.</div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">rg</div></div><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><br><table style="border-top:1px solid #d3d4de"><tr><td style="width:55px;padding-top:13px"><a href="http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail" target="_blank"><img src="https://s-install.avcdn.net/ipm/preview/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png" alt="" width="46" height="29" style="width: 46px; height: 29px;"></a></td><td style="width:470px;padding-top:12px;color:#41424e;font-size:13px;font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;line-height:18px">Virus-free.<a href="http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail" target="_blank" style="color:#4453ea">www.avg.com</a></td></tr></table><a href="#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2" width="1" height="1"></a></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Apr 8, 2026 at 5:31 PM Bob Spidell via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
<div>
After trying all the other 'techniques'--don't forget to undo the
tie rod on the back of the O/D--I bought a 3/4" air impact wrench
from Harbor Freight (the socket was almost as much as the wrench).
It barely fit between the chassis crosspiece, but spun the nut right
off.<br>
<br>
An 'extravagant' purchase to be sure, but I also have a large,
8-sided rear hub socket with a 3/4 inch female 'socket.' The hub nut
has an official torque setting of 'tighten until all the snot has
come out,' and the wrench accomplishes it. <br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div>On 4/8/2026 10:22 AM, Hank Leach via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>I like wood on crank journal-no pressure on drive train. Hank<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Simon Lachlan via Healeys" <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a>
<br>
Reply-To: <a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com" target="_blank"><simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com></a> <br>
To: "'Roger Grace'" <a href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" target="_blank"><roggrace@telus.net></a>, "'Healeys'"
<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> <br>
Sent: April 8, 2026 at 9:38 AM PDT <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Locking Crank </div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>If(!)
my memory t serves me right, you can take the sump off and
jam it with a piece of wood.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Otherwise,
maybe get something to lock the flywheel. Per attached. I
used this for work on the clutch but should do the job?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Years
ago, I put a massive spanner on the nut and clouted it with
a big hammer. Yes, the crank moved but the nut surely
tightened up. It is an absolute beast of a
spanner…open-ended, just one end. Heavy as anything, looks
like something out of a Challenger tank’s toolkit.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span>Have
fun. Simon</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span> </span></p>
<div style="border-width:1pt medium medium;border-style:solid none none;border-color:rgb(225,225,225) currentcolor currentcolor;padding:3pt 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></strong><span style="font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> Healeys
<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> <strong>On Behalf
Of </strong>Roger Grace<br>
<strong>Sent:</strong> 08 April 2026 16:05<br>
<strong>To:</strong> Healeys
<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<strong>Subject:</strong> [Healeys] Locking Crank</span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Had a bit of a mishap with my BJ8
engine that is installed in the car.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Drive shaft and gearbox in place and
tunnel off.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Need to re-tighten the crank nut.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">So how is the easiest way to lock the
crank ?</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Is it safe (no damage) to lock the prop
shaft flange and in 4th gear ?</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thank you</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">rg</p>
</div>
</div>
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