<div dir="ltr"><div>Hi,</div><div><br></div><div>When I restored my car, I opted for wire-reinforced ducting for the cold air and heater ducts. While it is not concours correct, it looks very similar to the original unless you look closely.</div><div><br></div><div>The primary advantage is that the wire-reinforced ducting is crush-proof and can be easily moved out of the way to access those hidden screws.</div><div><br></div><div>Best regards,</div><div><br></div><div>Harold</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Mar 22, 2026 at 9:23 AM Ken via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto"><div dir="auto">A couple of months ago, I gave up and cut the duct then inserted a sleeve for this same reason. </div><div dir="auto">Ken Freese</div><div dir="auto">65 BJ8</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="m_-793482278311650790composer_signature" dir="auto"><div style="font-size:14px;color:rgb(144,144,144)" dir="auto">Sent from my Galaxy</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br></div><div align="left" dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:rgb(0,0,0)"><div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: <a href="mailto:josef-eckert@t-online.de" target="_blank">josef-eckert@t-online.de</a> </div><div>Date: 3/22/26 4:56 AM (GMT-08:00) </div><div>To: Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>, <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a> </div><div>Subject: [Healeys] Replacement of Turn Signal Relay. </div><div><br></div></div><div></div>
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<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>Michael, </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>Since it's almost the same topic, but what bothers me much more is replacing the relays on the 6-cylinder Austin-Healeys</span></span><span lang="en"><span>.</span> </span></div>
<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>The top screw that holds the relay is inaccessible with a screwdriver when the cold air duct is installed.</span> <span>The same goes for </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>the upper cable clamps.</span> <span>Is there a trick to removing the faulty turn signal relay and installing a replacement without removing </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>the cold air duct and potentially damagi</span></span><span lang="en"><span>ng or crumpling it?</span> </span></div>
<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>Thank you for any helpful suggestions.</span> </span></div>
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<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>Josef Eckert </span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr"><span lang="en"><span>Königswinter/Germany</span></span></div>
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<p>Betreff: Re: [Healeys] Replacement Turn Signal Relay.</p>
<p>Datum: 2026-03-22T12:33:37+0100</p>
<p>Von: "simon.lachlan--- via Healeys" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>></p>
<p>An: "Michael Salter" <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>, "<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>" <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>></p>
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<div style="font-family:Aptos,Aptos_EmbeddedFont,Aptos_MSFontService,Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">Regarding these contraptions, there is a third way. I've mentioned it to M before....one can gut the old relay and rebuild its internals with new, modern, relays. I've done two or three. The first because my original had gone into terminal decay and the others because I'd bought clapped out originals at a boot fair. Anyhow, the first one's been in the car for some years now and works fine. The others are in one of the "boxes of useful things I may need one day". I've done the same to overdrive relays. By the way, I don't claim to be the first person to have done this!!</div>
<div style="font-family:Aptos,Aptos_EmbeddedFont,Aptos_MSFontService,Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">Simon</div>
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<div dir="ltr"><span style="font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri,sans-serif"><strong>From:</strong> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>><br><strong>Sent:</strong> 20 March 2026 16:23<br><strong>To:</strong> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><strong>Subject:</strong> [Healeys] Replacement Turn Signal Relay.</span>
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<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">All Big Healeys prior to the later Phase 2 BJ8 use a Lusas 33117 relay for the turn signals. This relay connects the appropriate lamps to the turn signal flasher unit, overriding the brake light switch on turns.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">These Lucas relays were a very primitive (by today's standards) but very robust unit and could withstand a short circuit as often happens with the glass lens type 594 turn/side/brake lamps used on these models at least until the fuse blew.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">Within these lamps it is very easy to produce a short to ground.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">Over the last few years replacements for these relays have been provided, under the Lucas name and the same 33117 part number, which have been completely redesigned and incorporate 2 modern G2R-1-E relays. </div>
<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">I have purchased 2 of these modern style relays and both have failed because the G2R-1-E relay relays don't seem to be anywhere near as robust as the originals and fail before the 35 amp fuse can protect them. </div>
<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">So, a word of caution, if you are using one of these (improved) cheapo repo turn signal relays, be very careful to avoid short circuits in the turn/brake/side lamps.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The attached pics are of the original type and the circuit board from the "improved" replacement.</div>
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<div style="font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">M </div>
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