<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">So here’s the big picture… I’ve had this ticka ticka ticka noise coming from the right side of the car, hard to hear it at highway speed, but 45 mph and below it’s there. Easy to hear when reflected off a railing or wall. A slight pressure on the brake pedal stops it. So I figure it's the brake pad jumping up and down. Brake pads are within spec. Both rotors were way too thin. Replaced them but still have the ticka ticka. I will put new pads on.<div>Also “found” the disappearing brake fluid (only after a drive) was due to the brake booster. So now that’s off the car. The calipers are aftermarket, unknown age by previous owner. Heck, might as well rebuild those since I’ll have to bleed anyway.</div><div>So I have these original calipers on an inside storage parts car. Well, one is off with one piston loose so far. I was thinking of using those original calipers, if I can get all the pistons out. If so, should I separate the calipers to replace that seal or leave it alone?</div><div>Dan</div><div><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 14, 2025, at 5:36 PM, Jake V <britishauto@gmail.com> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="auto">Depends on the preload you want on the tension bolts that hold the caliper halves together. <div dir="auto">Definitely do your own research if you're planning to split the calipers. It's not that hard to estimate the system pressure.</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Nov 14, 2025, 5:20 PM Richard Mayor <<a href="mailto:boyracer466@gmail.com">boyracer466@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Those numbers seem like overkill. There are charts that have the appropriate torque for the various size fasteners. I would consult one of those charts.<div><br></div><div><br id="m_4462736351559814321lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature"><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Nov 14, 2025, at 12:32 PM, Jake V <<a href="mailto:britishauto@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">britishauto@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr">Type 16P is correct, that's what you're showing. You'll want to get the seal between the halves as well, it's not included in the rebuild kit. <div>Bolt torque recommendations are 75ft-lb for the Ø7/16 pair and 45ft-lb for the Ø3/8 pair. </div><div>Caveat: Those torque numbers aren't available from the manual, some TR6s used the same 16P calipers. I found a thread with that info from TRF tech assistance.</div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://mossmotors.com/583-820-seal-between-caliper-halves?qty=1" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">https://mossmotors.com/583-820-seal-between-caliper-halves?qty=1</a></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Nov 14, 2025 at 12:36 PM <<a href="mailto:dwernervt@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">dwernervt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Looking to verify that this is an original caliper as I need to order the correct repair kit and SS pistons.<br>
Thanks!<br>
Dan Werner <br>
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