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Thanks Hank and Michael. <br>
<br>
Here's the recommendations from the Bentley reprint of the shop
manual for the 6-cyl cars. It appears to me the recommendations
changed with the evolution of lubricant technology. Another lister
mentioned, in a PM, that he got the same symptoms when his
solenoid/cross shaft enclose filled with oil due to a failed
O-ring. <br>
<br>
After over 100K miles of running MT-90 in my gearbox the gears
showed no appreciable wear and no sediment in the bottom of the box.
The layshaft, however, was worn at the ends, so I replaced with a
DWM 'uprated' shaft. <br>
<br>
Getting the right thickness of thrust washer required, IIRC,
stacking of washers to get a gap in the enclosure, then doing a
little math to determine the required thickness of washer to close
the gap. I couldn't find a suitably sized washer--big enough for the
mainshaft, but small enough to fit--to get a measurement, so I went
with the existing washer, which was still in good shape. I think the
way Magnus Karlson does it, by getting the measurement then
machining a washer to the correct thickness is ideal. <br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 10/25/2025 10:42 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:SN7PR22MB3764C47DCB660DD5F0A4C772A1FEA@SN7PR22MB3764.namprd22.prod.outlook.com">
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style="font-family: Aptos, Aptos_MSFontService, -apple-system, Roboto, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">
Hank, I have never be able to find any recommendation from
Laycock De Normanville which recommend any particular oil for
one of their overdrive units.</div>
<div dir="auto"
style="font-family: Aptos, Aptos_MSFontService, -apple-system, Roboto, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<span style="font-size: 12pt;">I wrote </span><span
style="font-size: 16px; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">to
the company (</span><span style="font-size: 12pt;">back in the
day when one sent letters through the mail, many decades ago)
and asked what lubricant they recommended and they replied
that the lubricant was specified by the gearbox manufacturer.</span></div>
<div dir="auto"
style="font-family: Aptos, Aptos_MSFontService, -apple-system, Roboto, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">
This 30 weight non-detergent thing is nothing more than an "old
wives tale".</div>
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<br>
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M</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif"
style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Hank Leach
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net"><gradea1@charter.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, October 25, 2025 12:52:20 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Michael Salter <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><michael.salter@gmail.com></a>;
Bob Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a>; Healey team
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> RE: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Conundrum</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<div>The required clearance for the sunwheel is .016-.020" If
you swapped out the bearing there could be a difference from
original. Moss and AH Spares sell the various sized steel
washers depending on the reading you get. Typically, after
many miles, that rear bronze washer is cracked or worn and
should be replaced.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>The factory(when there was one) recommended to only use <span
style="text-decoration:underline">
30W Non Detergent</span> oil as others tended to foam and
cause pressure issues. Also to be sure it is properly topped
up- #1-key reason to not work.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Before you tear it down, why not just change the oil as
recommended and see if there is a difference-easiest fix at
this point. If not the problem then it needs to come out and
repair. Hank</div>
<div><br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a>
<br>
Reply-To: "Bob Spidell" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a> <br>
To: "Michael Salter" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><michael.salter@gmail.com></a>,
"Healeys" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a>
<br>
Sent: October 24, 2025 at 9:38 PM PDT <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overdrive Conundrum <br>
Hi Michael,<br>
<br>
I rebuilt the gearbox and O/D probably about 7-8 years or so
ago. I've probably put close to 10K miles on it since, but not
too many since I moved to the Central Valley. For the last few
years it's been mostly short and day trips every month or two
so, it's been mostly sedentary. A few months ago I took it out
for a spin and noticed the O/D wouldn't engage at first but
would start working normally after maybe 20 minutes of
driving. In subsequent runs it's more not engaging, until a
few days ago I'd decided I would likely have to pull the
gearbox and O/D, but had to pull it out to get it off the
QuickJack underneath it and, to my surprise it started to work
OK again after 15-20 miles.<br>
<br>
I rebuilt the O/D myself, and I think I did OK except I may
not have gotten the planetary gears depth exactly right; I
didn't have a selection of thrust washers to try so I just put
the existing one back in. The only thing I changed out was the
thrust ring bearing, which might have been a different width.
The unit did have a very slight vibration, barely noticeable
through the floorboards but otherwise operated perfectly. Now,
when it works, it seems fine. When I rebuilt the gearbox the
rearmost thrust washer was whacked (see pic), but of course I
replaced it (how that could happen and why the O/D worked is
another mystery). I couldn't get the GB and O/D to mate up so
I took them to BCS where David Nock got them together and set
the operating shaft lift. Besides trying a new relay at Tom
Monaco's suggestion I haven't done anything else to it.<br>
<br>
Only thing I can guess is maybe the lever that the solenoid
lifts to turn the valve operating cam maybe slips sometimes
and not others.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="x_moz-cite-prefix">On 10/24/2025 8:00 PM, Michael
Salter wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos,Aptos_MSFontService,-apple-system,Roboto,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt">
That does defy logic Bob.</div>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos,Aptos_MSFontService,-apple-system,Roboto,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt">
Can you give a little history, has it always been this way
or did you change something? Did the problem develop slowly
or over time?</div>
<div
style="font-family:Aptos,Aptos_MSFontService,-apple-system,Roboto,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif; font-size:12pt">
Anything else that may be relevant?</div>
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M</div>
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<div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg"><strong>From:</strong> Healeys <a
class="x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf of
Bob Spidell via Healeys <a class="x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">
<healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<strong>Sent:</strong> Friday, October 24, 2025 8:41:36 PM<br>
<strong>To:</strong> Healeys <a
class="x_moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true">
<healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<strong>Subject:</strong> [Healeys] Overdrive Conundrum
<div> </div>
</div>
<div class="x_BodyFragment">
<div class="x_PlainText">Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BJ8's overdrive that defies
conventional logic: <br>
The O/D will not engage when the drivetrain is cold, but
begins to <br>
function more-or-less normally as the drivetrain gets
fully heated-up <br>
(15-20m on a warm day). I've checked the functioning of
the electricals; <br>
i.e. when not running I can a) disconnect the coil ground
so as not to <br>
fry the Pertonix Ignitor, b) place the gearbox in 3rd or
4th and c) <br>
close either, or both, the dash switch and/or the switch
on the shift <br>
knob --they're wired in parallel so either one will engage
the O/D, but <br>
both need to be in off/open condition to disengage--and I
can hear the <br>
solenoid click firmly (this pretty much rules out the
switches). I have <br>
already replaced the scuttle relay to no effect (I have
had them get <br>
flaky). AFAIK, the throttle/'kickdown' switch only comes
into play when <br>
disengaging, and seems to work when the O/D does engage.<br>
<br>
My thinking is, if the pump is failed or failing the O/D
might work when <br>
the fluid is cold but cease to function as the fluid heats
up and thins <br>
out (I've used Redline MT-90 successfully for over 100K
miles or more; <br>
it's equivalent to 50wt engine oil). But, the O/D not
engaging when cold <br>
(somewhat) refutes this theory. If the outlet check valve
on the pump <br>
was somehow boogered I would expect either a) cold
function only, or b) <br>
no function at all. Ditto the solenoid; I'd expect it to
get flakey when <br>
hot and it does 'click' reliably (when cold). I can
imagine the lever on <br>
the operating cam slipping, but wouldn't expect that to
vary with <br>
temperature (or to work at all, actually). Actuating shaft
lift was <br>
correctly set at rebuild. I do have a DWM 'uprated'
accumulator <br>
installed, and the O/D engages within 2 seconds when it
functions.<br>
<br>
Anyone had this condition, or have a theory as to why it
behaves this <br>
way? Next step would be to remove the console and confirm
I have good <br>
oil pressure (but if I do, then what?).<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
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