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    I agree this sounds like a M/C problem, and it's probably moot at
    this point, but there's a quick test to (start to) rule out the
    servo: 'Stand' on the brake pedal--pump it up if necessary--when
    starting the car. If the pedal goes down an inch or so when the
    engine fires and vacuum  builds the servo* is likely functioning
    properly. You can also clamp off the vacuum line to the servo and
    see if braking is affected. My BJ8's servo makes a popping noise you
    can feel in the floorboard the first time I apply the brakes (like
    when backing out of the garage). I've never figured out exactly why,
    but it's reassuring.<br>
    <br>
    Presumably, '0.7 hours' doesn't count 'making a cup,' or having a
    pint. <br>
    <br>
    * Servos are commonly called 'boosters' outside the LBC community,
    if not functioning there's no boost, so braking will require much
    more effort. A common failure is the gland seal, which keeps fluid
    from entering the vacuum circuit, manifested by white smoke out the
    tailpipes. <br>
    <br>
    bs<br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/19/2025 5:40 AM, Alan Wasserman
      wrote:<br>
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      Tom.  First, my diagnosis stems from what I was experiencing.
       When first applying brakes, pedal went down more than half way.
      Two simple pumps and pedal working near top.  No leaks. Visual
      showed master cylinder looking the 66 years old it was.  The
      gamble was that the problem might be the servo but if so, breaks
      won’t properly operate after a few pumps. Secondly I was smart
      enough to know my mechanical limits and called two friends I have
      unqualified respect for, Hank Leach and George Baxter. They too
      felt certain it was the master cylinder. 
      <div>Now, your issue is quite different.  First go into the foot
        pit with your flashlight and focus on cylinder connection to
        break pedal. Move pedal in and out to see if operates smoothly
        and without catch.  (This may be the problem??) Check fluid. If
        all else fails, hopefully our resident experts have sage advice.
        Good luck and please let us know what was the cause. <br
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        <div dir="ltr">Alan Wasserman
          <div><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Alanwassermannc@gmail.com">Alanwassermannc@gmail.com</a></div>
          <div>732-887-0742</div>
          <div><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.wassermanstudio.com">www.wassermanstudio.com</a></div>
        </div>
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          <blockquote type="cite">On Jun 18, 2025, at 11:02 PM, Michael
            Salter <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><michael.salter@gmail.com></a> wrote:<br>
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              The time was 0.7 hours Alan (42 minutes)  as I recall.
              Unfortunately I have misplaced my " Austin Healey 3000 Mk
              III Warrenty Repair Times Book" so can't confirm that my
              memory of that is actually correct however, BMC were
              renowned for their "stingy" warrenty times. The time
              allowed for re & re of the engine was only 5.4 hours!!</div>
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              M</div>
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              Get <a href="https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg"
                moz-do-not-send="true">Outlook for Android</a></div>
            <hr style="display:inline-block;width:98%" tabindex="-1">
            <div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font
                face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt"
                color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Alan Wasserman
                <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:alanwassermannc@gmail.com"><alanwassermannc@gmail.com></a><br>
                <b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 18, 2025 7:10:15 PM<br>
                <b>To:</b> Michael Salter
                <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><michael.salter@gmail.com></a><br>
                <b>Cc:</b> Alan Wasserman
                <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:AlanWassermanNC@gmail.com"><AlanWassermanNC@gmail.com></a>; Healeys
                <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
                <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Healeys Master brake
                cylinder replace</font>
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            <div style="line-break:after-white-space">My guess Michael,
              is that “.07” is NOT for a BJ8.  Perhaps for the 100’s
              that you usually work on.  Impossible to do in .07 as just
              to bleed the cylinder and brakes it will take a good 30
              minutes +-.  Unless there is some very special tool to
              handle this job….
              <div>Hope all is well with you and family.</div>
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                      <div>On Jun 18, 2025, at 6:20 PM, Michael Salter
                        <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:michael.salter@gmail.com"><michael.salter@gmail.com></a> wrote:</div>
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                            Seem to remember that the   time was 0.7 hrs
                            which of course included bleeding and a road
                            test. </div>
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                            M</div>
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                            dir="auto"
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                            Get <a href="https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg"
                              moz-do-not-send="true">Outlook for Android</a></div>
                          <hr tabindex="-1"
                            style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
                          <div id="x_divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font
                              face="Calibri, sans-serif"
                              style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b>
                              Healeys
                              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on
                              behalf of Alan Wasserman
                              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:alanwassermannc@gmail.com"><alanwassermannc@gmail.com></a><br>
                              <b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, June 18, 2025
                              3:27:29 PM<br>
                              <b>To:</b> Healeys
                              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
                              <b>Cc:</b> Alan Wasserman
                              <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:AlanWassermanNC@gmail.com"><AlanWassermanNC@gmail.com></a><br>
                              <b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Healeys
                              Master brake cylinder replace</font>
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                              Re Master break cylinder replacement:
                            <div><br>
                            </div>
                            <div>I had reported a few weeks ago that I
                              was about to embark on replacing my master
                              brake cylinder on my ’66 AH 3000,  .  FYI,
                              for those who have never…the simple
                              explanation:  involved in only four
                              <i><b>simple </b></i>bolts/nuts (and then
                              to bleed the cylinder and brakes).  The “<i>simple</i>”
                              four nuts/bolts took approximately 3
                              hours…YES< THREE HOURS!!.  It is
                              impossible to get to the cylinder without
                              removing the back air filter (which by
                              itself is not a simple task without the
                              right tools).  Once your filter is off, it
                              still requires both a bent small wrench
                              and also an articulating socket, small
                              arms and hands.  Also, a tip…before
                              inserting your cylinder into the firewall
                              hole, slide down the protective rubber,
                              squeezing in the cylinder and than, while
                              in the foot pit, slip the rubber end into
                              the hole before fastening the cylinder to
                              the side of the brake pedal.  When
                              fastening the cylinder to the firewall, do
                              not confuse the bolt for the airfilter.
                              After bleeding the brakes, take a spin and
                              bleed one more time.  I think it easier to
                              replace a steering wheel and dealing with
                              the traficator.  Anyway, I hope this helps
                              someone.</div>
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