<div dir="ltr">Hi Roger -<div><br></div><div>I almost hate to suggest this, but have you tried stop leak / aluma seal? It works very well, just the trick is to make sure you flush the cooling system out and replace with fresh coolant after the leaking has stopped (to prevent the leftover stop leak from plugging other stuff up over time.<br><br>Best,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Jan 8, 2025 at 1:14 PM Roger Grace <<a href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net">roggrace@telus.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div>Looking for some pearls of wisdom from the more experienced among us. Very frustrating as the car runs so well with good oil pressure and compression.<br></div><div>After many months of tests and checking have established that the block on my BJ8 has the porosity issue. This is not the well known oil into water but water into oil. (after 1000 mi, 3300ppm into oil) I did find an area behind the center tappet cover where water was oozing into the drain back from the rocker. Did my best to repair it with epoxy from the outside. No doubt it is leaking there or some place else. Fellow lister Wayne Schultz had the identical problem.<br></div><div>My query is if there is a known solution to this problem ? resin impregnation ? or maybe a modern treatment ?<br></div><div>Also have located some replacement blocks but how to test ? and be assured that these old blocks also don't develop the same problem ?</div><div>Changing blocks invariably means a complete engine rebuild.<br></div><div>How common is this ? <br></div><div>All very painful.</div><div>rg<br></div></div>
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