<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xmlns:v="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><body>
If there were room for a full radiator shroud, that would help. Otherwise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) are inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on when you know you’ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a show. I’ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, 160-degree F thermostat, and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan is the trick. <br><br><br><div class="yahoo-signature"><a style="font-size:12px" href="https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661">Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS</a><br></div><br><p class="yahoo-quoted-begin" style="font-size: 15px; color: rgb(132, 115, 255); padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0px;">On Monday, December 30, 2024, 8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:</p><blockquote class="iosymail"><div id="yiv7588010989"><div>
re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg
thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow
on the actual engine block surface"<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave
exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines
will not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat
up when sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer
days, but start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can
only attribute the difference to airflow temp.<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
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<div id="yiv7588010989yqtfd47139" class="yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"><div class="yiv7588010989moz-cite-prefix">On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
</blockquote></div></div><div id="yiv7588010989yqtfd61441" class="yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"></div><div><div id="yiv7588010989yqtfd14688" class="yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"><div>
<div>Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how
the information is displayed?</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div>________________<br clear="none">
Sent from my phone <br clear="none">
Best Regards,<br clear="none">
Al Fuller</div>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div class="yiv7588010989gmail_quote yiv7588010989gmail_quote_container">
<div dir="ltr" class="yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30 AM
Roger Grace <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" target="_blank" href="mailto:roggrace@telus.net" class="yiv7588010989moz-txt-link-freetext">roggrace@telus.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">
<div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when
the engine was working hard with increased losses is the
worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help
the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that
ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
relatively simple project and works well.</div>
<div>I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via
multiplexed switches :<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>WT - Smiths std gauge<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>OT- oil temp at filter</div>
<div>EC - engine compartment near carb intakes</div>
<div>TH - top hose water temp<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for
interest.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump -
manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael
above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in
thermostat; AL finned sump.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Most interesting observations are:</div>
<div>Oil takes longer than we think to get close to
operating temp at least 30 min but depends on
ambient.Often long after the stat. opens<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading</div>
<div>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes.
rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of
cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface.
Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor
fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides
to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs
badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the
inlet air.</div>
<div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does
not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases.
Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for
controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real
benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet
deflectors are important<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block
cooling.</div>
<div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when
driving.<br clear="none">
</div>
<div>rg<br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
<div><br clear="none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div class="yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at
9:42 AM Michael Salter <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" class="yiv7588010989moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">Like
most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating
problems on occasion.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">The
worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming
stalled in traffic on the highway after running at
high speed.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">On
those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures
the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167
- 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm
up is a little slower. <br clear="none">
</div>
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">The
advantage of running at this cooler temperature is
that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when
the above traffic problems occur.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">I
found that the indicated temperature (which is
accurate), runs 5 degrees C higher even when using a
165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I
suspect this is due to the slight restriction even
when the thermostat is fully open.</div>
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default"><br clear="none">
</div>
<div style="font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">M<br clear="none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear="none">
<div class="yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024
at 8:32 AM Michael Oritt <<a rel="nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" target="_blank" href="mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com" class="yiv7588010989moz-txt-link-freetext">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear="none">
</div>
<blockquote style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class="yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr">
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">I need to replace my
thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
"Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many
others--which are designed to fail in the open
mode. What is the collective experience with
these?</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default"><br clear="none">
</div>
<div style="color:rgb(51,51,255);" class="yiv7588010989gmail_default">TIA--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
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</div></div></div><div class="yqt4756003637" id="yqtfd61257">_______________________________________________<br clear="none">Support Team.Net <a shape="rect" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br clear="none">Suggested annual donation $12.75<br clear="none"><br clear="none">Archive: <a shape="rect" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys" target="_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a shape="rect" href="http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/archive/healeys</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"><a shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net" href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a><br clear="none"><a shape="rect" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a shape="rect" href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmarkovich@aol.com" target="_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/rmarkovich@aol.com</a><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div><blockquote></blockquote></blockquote>
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