<html><head></head><body><div class="ydp9c7d37yahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote style="padding-left:10px;border-left:2px solid #0f69ff;margin-left:20px"><strong>30W non-detergent ONLY-</strong>no synthetics or expect leaks. Hank</blockquote><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">For that to be true, you must have a gap in the seal larger than synthetic oil molecule & smaller that the conventional oil molecule. </div><div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Gary</div></div><div><br></div>
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On Saturday, September 28, 2024 at 01:14:07 PM CDT, Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<div><div id="ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844"><div><div>Yes, Harold has the best method! It is important to get some sealer onto the threads-use a Q-tip if necessary but that is where the seal takes place or leaks. That hard gasket really does not seal well and oil won't soak into it like as if it was cork. The gasket is just there to give you some squeeze movement.</div>
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<div>Permatex Aircraft is the best for that as it starts out liquid but then hardens to each surface. Often the "ears" get distorted from what Bob described as the chisel/hammer method of tightening and then the plug does not go all the way home. Then you need to get out the file.</div>
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<div>And thank you Harold!!! <strong>30W non-detergent ONLY-</strong>no synthetics or expect leaks. Hank</div>
<div id="ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844yqt40493" class="ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844yqt5166265488"><div><br clear="none">-------------------- <br clear="none"><br clear="none">From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold@telus.net> <br clear="none">To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> <br clear="none">Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net> <br clear="none">Sent: September 28, 2024 at 9:31 AM PDT <br clear="none">Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD drips </div>
<div>Don,
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<div>I had a leak in the large OD drain plug plug as well. After several failed attempts with magic sealers to stop the leak I discovered the flange on the brass nut had a slight wave. I carefully filed the flange until flat and dressed the OD opening as well. I applied Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to the fiber washer and the bottom half of the threads. So far no leaks. I am using 30W non-detergent oil, synthetic gear oils will leak more readily than the 30W.</div>
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<div>Lesson learned is there can't be the slightest gap between the flange and the seat. Try assembling dry without the gasket and see if the nut seats all the way around.</div>
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<div>Harold</div>
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<div class="ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844gmail_attr">On Sat, Sep 28, 2024 at 8:07 AM Bob Spidell via Healeys <<a shape="rect" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:</div>
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<div>I'm having the same problem Don (well, I've always had it, but it's gotten worse). Years ago, when I had the gearbox/OD out I'd carefully flat-filed the O/D, as there was some roughness to it, and it seemed to help. But, after the latest intervention the dripping increased. I tried a new gasket and a sealer that's worked well for me in other places--Permatex Seal&Lock--and still get some drips. I can't say for sure, since I don't have one of the old gaskets, but I think the newer ones offered are thinner around the perimeter (not thickness, the width of the 'rim' of the gasket; i.e. OD minus ID). That could be part of the problem, plus those fiber washers, used elsewhere, are always tricky to get a good seal (S.U. went from the fiber gaskets to O-rings on their fuel pumps--you don't suppose?). Soaking with a light oil before installing helps; I don't recall if I did that last attempt. <br clear="none"><br clear="none">I have a 'correct tool' as well, but it's still hard to get a lot of torque on the brass nut in situ. Back in the day, I'd take a drift and a 2-lb hammer to it, but since getting a new plug I'm loathe to do that (but in desperation I might try it). Another alternative would be to forgo the gasket and just use the sealant, which worked well to seal a mis-sized plug on an 'uprated' water pump (thanks Steve K.). But, it could be that that sealant may not work as well on an oily surface (hard to get all oil off the hole as it keeps dripping for days). <br clear="none"><br clear="none">Bob<br clear="none"><br clear="none">
<div>On 9/28/2024 6:45 AM, Don via Healeys wrote:</div>
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<pre>Good morning all
Two days ago I installed a new washer on the large brass drain plug on the 67 BJ8 . Filled the transmission up . Looked at it in the morning and it had drips on the bottom of the plug . So I used the correct tool and tried to tighten it up . Then this morning looked again and there was those drips. When I installed it the surface didn’t look gouged or anything. So what’s the fix to stop the drips ? Remove the big brass plug , get a new gasket for it , apply some kind of gasket sealer on the gasket, reinstall it and tighten as needed? Maybe add two gaskets ?
Thanks as always, Don
Sent from my iPhone
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