<html><head><meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="auto">My comment on this is that I've gone through 3 sets of flex pipe (AH spares) that all leaked like a sieve. I too thought that the flex pipe allowed for some movement between the engine and transmission, but I talked to the Rawles people when I was at Goodwood about this, and they have a system without flex pipe, and claim they have no problem with it. Good for them.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">For me, in the end I found a solution to fix the flex pipe, but it was a lot of work!</div><div dir="auto">I'd recommend you pressure test the components before installing anything.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Stephen, BJ8</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div id="composer_signature" dir="auto"><div style="font-size:12px;color:#575757" dir="auto">Sent from my Galaxy</div></div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div><br></div><div align="left" dir="auto" style="font-size:100%;color:#000000"><div>-------- Original message --------</div><div>From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> </div><div>Date: 2024-09-19 4:56 PM (GMT+00:00) </div><div>To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> </div><div>Cc: Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> </div><div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Downpipes </div><div><br></div></div><div dir="auto">Hi Bob, after searching in vain for a company in NA I finally found a company in Christchurch New Zealand who were able to bend some 2" exhaust tube to exactly the correct shape based on the original drawings of which I have a copy. To that pipe I TIG welded a new flange, which I had flame cut, and a section of flex pipe of the correct type but made from stainless steel. The whole process was a little expensive but this has been on my BN1 for 10 years and many thousands of miles. <div dir="auto">I had the need to remove it this summer and the flex is as flexible as it was when installed and serving its purpose admirably and the mild steel tubing has still got some of the high temperature paint on it.</div><div dir="auto">I'm not a brilliant welder but I certainly managed to produce a very satisfactory weld. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Wed., Sep. 18, 2024, 10:36 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex" class="gmail_quote">Listers,<br>
<br>
The exhaust downpipes for both 4- and 6-cyl cars have a section of <br>
flexible tubing before the connection to the muffler. I've always <br>
assumed this was to allow for the rocking of the engine, and the fact <br>
the system is affixed with fairly rigid hangers (at least, until the <br>
rubber part disintegrates). I've also heard the flexpipe is to allow <br>
easier fitment from the downpipe to the muffler, which won't necessarily <br>
be perfectly aligned. Of course, both reasons could be true.<br>
<br>
I'm asking the knowledge-based, LLM model List because I'm considering <br>
an aftermarket header from AH Spares for my BN2/100M. The repop down <br>
pipe I have now is malformed, and the clutch pedal arm comes in contact <br>
with it at full clutch pedal, and I've heard this is common in the <br>
repops (yes, I could just bash the downpipe, but that would be tacky and <br>
sometimes that can cause a ticking noise, which would annoy me even <br>
more). But, the AHS pipe doesn't have the section of flexpipe so I'm <br>
wondering if it's really needed. I have a TIG and I'm not terrible with <br>
it, but the header and, presumably the flex tubing are SS, which I'm not <br>
practiced in welding.<br>
<br>
Thanks for any suggestions.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
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