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See attachment.<br>
<br>
The one on the adjustment lever on the passenger side can be
replaced easily (see Jean's email on pin removal). On the driver's
side--with the solenoid--you have to remove the operating lever and,
I think, the plate underneath. But you can do this without removing
the gearbox and OD.<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 6/20/2024 11:49 AM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:warthodson@aol.com">warthodson@aol.com</a> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Is there a source for the
double lip seals? It is my understanding that these seals can
be replaced without disassembling the OD to get inside it. Am
I correct?</div>
<div dir="ltr" data-setdir="false">Gary</div>
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<div class="ydped2a7392quoted-text-header"> On Thursday,
June 20, 2024 at 11:27:44 AM CDT, Hank Leach via Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> wrote: </div>
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<div id="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834">
<div>Yes, the OD cross shaft seals have been an issue
for sometime and some suppliers sold just o-rings as a
solution which were less than adequate. The actual
double lipped seal is best needed to keep from
leaking-two o'rings made the shaft/solenoid work
harder. If you want to keep leaks to a minimum these
seals are the best choice. The intimating part of the
replacement was to drive out the tapered pin which
could be difficult. When doing the lever side I put
the 3/16" drill bit in the OD setting hole before
driving out the pin. Check carefully for taper before
driving it out the wrong way. You will be glad you
fixed these two leaking ends. Hank<br>
-------------------- <br>
<br>
From: "Bob Spidell" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a> <br>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a> <br>
Sent: June 20, 2024 at 7:47 AM PDT <br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Healeys Digest, Vol 17, Issue
98 <br>
Thanks for the input Craig. I'm still debating the
flywheel; hopefully, my path will be apparent when I
get the box out.<br>
<br>
I'll be checking the bell housing bolts, and the input
shaft for wear. I already have the OD operating shaft
'quad rings,' I got them as soon as I saw Roger
Moment's article (long story about the seller).<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
</div>
<div class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834moz-cite-prefix">On
6/19/2024 1:54 PM, Craig Cooper wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<div style="font-size:large;"
class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834gmail_default">Re:
Lightened Flywheels</div>
<div style="font-size:large;"
class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834gmail_default"> </div>
<div style="font-size:large;"
class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834gmail_default">Hi
Bob: I absolutely love the extra power (perceived
or actual) in my Healeys with light flywheels. My
BN1 has one from DW that weighs about 12 pounds
and I'm using DW's damper on the front. The car
has an upgraded crankshaft and BN7 gearbox, so
maybe that's kept it from flying apart. My BN7
w/BJ8 cam has an alloy flywheel I got on eBay that
I think weighs about 20 pounds. It runs smooth
as silk with no ill effects. I still can get
occasional run-on though, with lower octane fuel. </div>
<div style="font-size:large;"
class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834gmail_default"> </div>
<div style="font-size:large;"
class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834gmail_default">On
the gearbox oil leaks, check the lower bell
housing bolts which, at least on the side shifts,
extend into the gearbox and can leak. Also, "Quad
Ring" OD operating shaft seals are available from
AH Spares, part 0VD185MS. I haven't tried them
yet, but it seems like they would be an
improvement over the single O rings generally
used. </div>
<div style="font-size:large;"
class="ydped2a7392yiv6653285834gmail_default"><span
style="color:rgb(46,46,46);font-family:Roboto, sans-serif;font-size:13.6px;">OVD185MS</span></div>
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