<div dir="auto">Very interesting Jonas.<div dir="auto"> I have had 2 cars non working "rebuilt" overdrives brought to me for rectification and in both cases one or more long springs were installed in the inner position. Neither would go into overdrive despite the usual " flick" of the pressure gauge indicating that the valve had opened. </div><div dir="auto">I can only imagine that the amount of wear of the linings makes the difference. </div><div dir="auto">M</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri., Apr. 26, 2024, 8:53 p.m. <a href="mailto:jpaynepbr@cox.net">jpaynepbr@cox.net</a>, <<a href="mailto:jpaynepbr@cox.net">jpaynepbr@cox.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
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I actually got the springs reversed on my last rebuild. </div>
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OD engaged when I bench tested it, so I thought it was good.</div>
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In the car, OD would engage and hold until a load was applied.</div>
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It happily engaged with the car on jack stands and while driving downhill or on level ground, but the instant you tried to accelerate or encountered a grade, out it would come. </div>
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When I took it apart, you could plainly see the wear pattern and that the clutch surfaces were only engaging about 1/32".</div>
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Jonas</div>
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With all due respects Hank you have this backwards. </div>
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.<i>However if the springs are misinstalled in the wrong position or not properly mounted on their tabs upon assembly or previously "coil bound" from that procedure or wear, they will not function to keep direct drive solid without slipping</i>.</div>
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If the springs are installed incorrectly as in even one of them sitting on top on the little posts, or even one long spring where a short is meant to be, the unit will be solidly locked in "normal" i.e. non overdrive as there never going to be enough hydraulic
pressure to move a spring beyond "coil bound".</div>
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Don't ask me how I know 😳</div>
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