<div dir="ltr">Regarding ProAlloy, I just checked their website and not only have their prices increased, but the dollar to pound rate is not as good as it was when I purchased mine. Still, a better product for less money.</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 11:24 AM Curtis Arndt <<a href="mailto:cnaarndt@gmail.com">cnaarndt@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Leonard<div><br></div><div>I recently purchased a very high quality semi-custom aluminum Radiator from ProAlloy in England. At the time, the US dollar rate to the British Pound was at an all time low of $1.07 to <span style="color:rgb(32,33,36)"><font face="arial, sans-serif">£</font></span>1.00, so the radiator delivered to SoCal was just under $900 USD.</div><div><br></div><div>Compare the quality of the welding to the crap offered by Moss, AH Spares etc... let alone a price that is double what I paid. The welding from others used looks like it was done by a HS shop student on Meth!</div><div><br></div><div>30% more cooling than a stock brass radiator. OUTSTANDING customer service and fast shipping [shipping alone was <span style="color:rgb(32,33,36);font-family:arial,sans-serif">£</span>147 and the price was still under $900 USD delivered!] Additionally, they retapped the drain valve for a proper reproduction one that Moss currently offers [one that I sent them]. Their standard brass drain is a Sprite screw type that uses a BSPT thread [tapered] versus a BSPP thread [parallel] as per original, see the three attached photos.</div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-100-4-radiator" target="_blank">Austin Healey 100-4 Radiator - Pro Alloy</a><br></div><div><br></div><div><a href="https://www.proalloy.co.uk/products/austin-healey-3000-radiator" target="_blank">Austin Healey 3000 Radiator - Pro Alloy</a><br></div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div><br></div><div>Curt Arndt</div><div>Carlsbad, CA </div><div>'55 BN1, '60 AN5 :{)</div><div><br></div><div><img src="cid:ii_lk1gruel0" alt="IMG_20230103_131233_050.jpg" width="517" height="517"><br></div><div><img src="cid:ii_lk1gsocn1" alt="IMG_20230103_130922_359.jpg" width="517" height="517"><br></div><div><img src="cid:ii_lk1h0n6d2" alt="IMG_20230103_130815_341.jpg" width="517" height="517"><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, Jul 13, 2023 at 7:59 AM Leonard Berkowitz via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>
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I do not have any experience with aluminum radiators but I have tried oil coolers, "Texas fans", and electric fans. I finally had my original recored with a core that has extra rows. The upper tank is original but the lower is thicker, which made installation
a little challenging. The radiator has been in for at least 15-20 years. I have driven under almost every condition- very hot ambient temps, high speed (80-90MPH) traffic etc. and the engine temps stay where they should be. Strongly recommend this option,
especially since it almost impossible to distinguish my radiator from the stock original and it has worked to perfection. </div>
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Len B</div>
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<div id="m_8551830816887354730m_4869603808946771523divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of warthodson--- via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 11, 2023 9:49 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>; BJ8Healeys <<a href="mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com" target="_blank">sbyers@ec.rr.com</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Heater query</font>
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<div dir="ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads
to the aluminum option. </div>
<div dir="ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary H</div>
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<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in the sunny South (90</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to
refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”; but I no longer have to use it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">
sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve Byers</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock, NC USA</span></p>
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