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I have the aluminum dual pass wizard radiator from New York also in my 100-6 and love it. I have a single electric 15” spal fan, no vents in the hood and I am cooling an aluminum 5.7L LS1 with 350hp. Never overheats and idles thru parades on 100 degree days
and never goes over 195 degrees. <br>
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<div>Chris Scholz OD</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 12, 2023, at 2:59 AM, Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Bob,
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<div>As long as the side baffles are fitted properly the fan will not have any issues pulling air through the rad. The fan does little for air flow at anything above 15 mph.</div>
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<div>Harold</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 2:19 PM Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<p>As the cores become denser, I wonder if the stock fan is able to pull sufficient air through the radiator.<br>
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<pre cols="72">Bob Haskell
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar</pre>
<div>On 7/11/23 12:40, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Gary,
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<div>I had the same options when restoring my Mk1 BT7. I looked into aluminum radiators extensively to see what the benefits might be. Contrary to popular belief it is not better heat transfer properties of the materials. The copper radiator fins on the original
Healey radiators have much better thermal conductivity than aluminum. The advantage of the aluminum radiator is the manufacturing process and the formability of modern aluminum. The result is more tube and fin area. I estimated a Wizard radiator has about
25% more fin area than the stock radiator. The greater the fin area the better to expel heat.</div>
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<div>Having said that, there is a third option which is to replace the original core with a high efficiency core. This retains the stock look of the engine bay and will be close in performance to the aluminum radiator. The high efficiency core option will be
more expensive than a Wizard radiator and the difficulty is finding a radiator shop that can access the core can do the work.</div>
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<div>This website has a good overview: <a href="https://usradiator.com/cores" target="_blank">https://usradiator.com/cores</a></div>
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<div>Harold</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 11, 2023 at 9:12 AM warthodson--- via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">My 100 radiator is in need of some rehabilitation. It either needs to be boiled out, which would not replace some of the damaged fins, or re-cored. I am leaning toward re-coring but that would be more expensive, which leads to the aluminum option. </div>
<div dir="ltr">Besides price what are the pros vs. cons of these options? Does anyone know if re-cored 100 radiator is more efficient than an aluminum radiator?</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary H</div>
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<div>On Monday, July 10, 2023 at 09:02:21 PM CDT, BJ8Healeys via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:
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<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">I live in the sunny South (90</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> F and 90% relative humidity today) and I used to refer to my BJ8’s heater as the “auxiliary engine cooler”;
but I no longer have to use it that way since I had a modern core installed in the radiator and added a 190</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">°</span><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> sleeved thermostat that I bought from Kees.</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)"> </span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve Byers</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8 Registry</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p><span style="color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock, NC USA</span></p>
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