<html><body>I fashioned this one, for lack of the factory tool. It is the best way to remove the pump without damage. Its an interference fit. Yes, you must first remove the non-return valve, spring ball and plunger or else damage to the pump shaft will take place. When replacing the pump use two long fine thread screws to guide to the correct position<div><br></div><div>When assembling the two units I leave the drain plug and screen filter out so that the wire holding back the pump plunger can easily be extracted after the units are mated. Seal the threads of the drain as with just a gasket it will still leak. Hank<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Michael Salter via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>To: "Bob Spidell"<br>Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>Sent: Tuesday June 20 2023 12:56:10PM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Mating the overdrive to the transmission<br><br>
<div>Point of interest ... there's actually a
special tool for removing the pump.
<div>I think I've only ever used it once!!</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue., Jun. 20, 2023, 11:48
a.m. Bob Spidell, <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">
<div>re: "Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the
2 screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with
a 7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required.
To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about
1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also
the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the
hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make
a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can
be done inserting it the wrong way around."<br><br><br>
Roger,<br><br>
Thanks for the correction. I watched the process from a distance so
missed many of the details (plus, it was 6-7 years ago).<br><br>
Bob<br><br><br><div>On 6/20/2023 8:42 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
<div dir="ltr">
<div>A few minor corrections ...</div>
<div>Yes MS is correct there is simply no substitute for having a
spare shaft - I try to say goodnight to mine every evening !</div>
<div>I have made his special tool and can confirm it does
work.</div>
<div>However it does imply that the OD is open between the adaptor
flange and the OD.</div>
<div>I also use the wire/twine technique.<br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Now the oil pump. This is not simply held in place by the 2
screws. It is an interference fit and needs to be pulled out with a
7/16 - 20 bolt - actually a couple of varying lengths makes it
easier. Also a selection of large washers and spacers are required.
To ensure that it does not twist on you you need some longer about
1/12 in 8-32 screws that replace the shorter ones mentioned. Also
the NR valve MUST be removed and this in turn implies that the
hydraulic cover and large accumulator spring is out. Furthermore
the pump has to be fitted in the correct orientation. I try to make
a mark but easy to get it wrong if lying on your back. Damage can
be done inserting it the wrong way around.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Nowadays I find it easier to assemble the complete OD with the
adapter plate already fitted to the OD. You then don't have to
fight with the release springs as well as gasket goo and the oil
pump spring retention all together. Then use the dummy to do the bl
alignment after some careful threading to pull back the pump
spring. I have used this a few times lowering onto the GB and also
even on its side. Patience !<br></div>
<div>rg<br></div>
<div><br></div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jun 20, 2023 at 5:03 AM
Michael Salter <<a>michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px .8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div>Although one may be difficult to find there is no
substitute for a spare gearbox 3rd motion shaft for this job.
<div>The spare shaft is used to align all the internals
then, using my special tool to hold the pump plunger
retracted</div>
<div><a href="https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/"></a><a href="https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/">https://precisionsportscar.com/laycock-de-normanville-overdrive-installation-tool/</a></div>
<div> it is a simple task to lower the overdrive
onto the gearbox. </div>
<div><br></div>
<div>M</div>
</div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon., Jun. 19, 2023, 11:41
p.m. Bob Spidell, <<a>bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px .8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;">
<div>There is a bronze thrust washer that has to be perfectly
centered to get that last 3/4" (#148 in this diagram):<br><br><a href="https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8"></a><a href="https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8">https://mossmotors.com/ahy-041-overdrive-unit-bn2-thru-bj8</a><br><br>
You can wiggle it around with a long screwdriver, or use a suitable
'drift' to center it. Your best bet is to sit the O/D on end and
lower the gearbox onto it; gently rotating the gearbox while
lowering. First time I did this I must have got lucky, but danged
if I can explain this (see attached photo). Most recently I fought
for a couple days then threw in the towel and took gearbox and O/D
to BCS which, fortunately, is only a half-hour away. David and his
mechanics had a novel technique I've not heard described anywhere;
basically, he removed the pump completely--it's only two screws
IIRC--and split the O/D into front and rear sections and tipped the
gearbox and O/D up--gearbox on bottom--then had two of his
mechanics pull the sections together with huge channellock pliers
while David rotated the output shaft to 'feel it in' (you had to be
there).<br><br>
Good luck. Make triply sure you have the pump cam oriented
correctly, or you'll get more experience with this process than you
probably want.<br><br>
bs<br><br><div>On 6/19/2023 6:18 PM, warthodson--- via Healeys
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
<div style="font-family:'Comic Sans MS', sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div dir="ltr">I spent the day assisting a friend trying to mate
his OD to his transmission. The car is a '63 BJ7. The overdrive &
Trans. were pulled to replace a few internal trans parts which was
done & we did not run into any issues. We can get the OD to within
approx. 1/2-3/4" of mating to the trans, but cannot close that gap.
We have confirmed that the oil pump roller has been fully
retracted. What are we bumping up against & how do we get past
it?</div>
<div dir="ltr">Gary Hodson</div>
</div>
<br></blockquote>
<br></div>
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