<html><body>Simon- Typically the body shop takes a 2x4 and bends the top of the door inward-something that you may not want to tackle, but it is one method of "adjusting" the door fit. If the gaps around the door are equal you probably don't have the dreaded chassis sag but if the top edge is a tighter gap than the bottom gap, Bob may have hit on the issue. Additionally, the cockpit trim and swedge line would not line up. If you have a good panel beater nearby, I would suggest a visit...they have a good eye for that type of thing. I don't believe that the striker or latch adjustment is the problem or the door would stick out in the middle of the door edge.<div><br></div><div>Back in the good old days, Geoff Healey designed (engineered) the metal for the floor pans and sills out of .015 ga. material. To save $$ the Austin design team spec'd the metal to .018 and the body sagged and the doors would not open. The factory had to go into each car and weld in a new floor pan, stamped 100, out of heavier stock to remedy the problem. This photo shows the factory "patch panel" in place. Hank<br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net><br>To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Friday April 21 2023 6:17:14PM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] door won't shut fully.<br><br>
Hard to say without seeing it, but you may require some shims
behind the hinges (to compensate for a sagging chassis).<br><br><br><div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/21/2023 1:09 PM, Simon Lachlan
via Healeys wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">The car is a 3000, MkII BT7 ie it does not
have wind up windows.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, the door will shut but it sticks out
about 7+mm at the top. One closes the door which engages with the
latch on the striker. The door is firmly closed and will not open
until one turns the interior or exterior handle. BUT, once the door
is shut and engaged, it moves out. Doesn’t look good.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I tried moving the striker plate inwards, bit
by bit. No change.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I thought/hoped that the catch mechanism had
worn out and replaced it. To be fair, the mechanism was pretty well
worn out – it’s old!! – but this made no difference.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I tried messing with the striker plate again.
No change. It looked pretty worn and shabby so I replaced that
too…..No change.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The process seems simple enough in theory but,
in practise, I’m making no progress. Is it one of those situations,
which I seem to encounter all too often, where the cure is so
counter-intuitive that it never occurs to the inexperienced
amateur?? I’m moving the plate inwards….seems obvious, right?
Should it be going outwards? Or what??</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This has all been pretty frustrating. Getting
the catch mechanism out was a nightmare and the so-called
escutcheon on the door handle was solid so had to be sacrificed
with a cold chisel….etcetc.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Any ideas would be very welcome.</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,</p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon</p>
<p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
</div>
<br></blockquote>
<br></bspidell@comcast.net></div></body></html>