<div dir="auto">I don't profess to be an expert coachbuilder but have had considerable success following the procedure demonstrated to me many years back.<div dir="auto">Install the door on its hinges completely bare, no latches, no liner, no door seals, no combing and then make the necessary adjustments to ensure that it fits correctly into its aperture with correct gaps.</div><div dir="auto">If the door will not fit "bare" significant alterations will be necessary. </div><div dir="auto">After that is correct start adding things one at a time ensuring that the fit of the door is adversely affected by what you just fitted. </div><div dir="auto">Takes a while but has always served me well.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri., Apr. 21, 2023, 10:40 p.m. Mike Sinclair, <<a href="mailto:phoenix722@comcast.net">phoenix722@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#ffffff">
<p>In that case, a lot of us could use some shims.</p>
<p>Mike<br>
</p>
<div>On 4/21/23 5:57 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
Hard to say without seeing it, but you may require some shims
behind the hinges (to compensate for a sagging chassis).<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 4/21/2023 1:09 PM, Simon Lachlan
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The car is a 3000, MkII BT7 ie it does
not have wind up windows.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Now, the door will shut but it sticks out
about 7+mm at the top. One closes the door which engages
with the latch on the striker. The door is firmly closed and
will not open until one turns the interior or exterior
handle. BUT, once the door is shut and engaged, it moves
out. Doesn’t look good.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I tried moving the striker plate inwards,
bit by bit. No change. <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I thought/hoped that the catch mechanism
had worn out and replaced it. To be fair, the mechanism was
pretty well worn out – it’s old!! – but this made no
difference.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I tried messing with the striker plate
again. No change. It looked pretty worn and shabby so I
replaced that too…..No change.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">The process seems simple enough in theory
but, in practise, I’m making no progress. Is it one of those
situations, which I seem to encounter all too often, where
the cure is so counter-intuitive that it never occurs to the
inexperienced amateur?? I’m moving the plate inwards….seems
obvious, right? Should it be going outwards? Or what?? <u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">This has all been pretty frustrating.
Getting the catch mechanism out was a nightmare and the
so-called escutcheon on the door handle was solid so had to
be sacrificed with a cold chisel….etcetc.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Any ideas would be very welcome.<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Simon<u></u><u></u></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><u></u> <u></u></p>
</div>
<br>
</blockquote>
<br>
<br>
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