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Yup (if there's any left in the box).<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/13/2023 8:40 AM, Harold Manifold
wrote:<br>
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<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAFP1XCDxfBPrQMUTVbxuk57AroFwMhdL_ror2eiFuNE9TYtfvw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div dir="ltr">Thanks for all the replies and the information. I
can confirm the olive is tight and the lower doesn't rotate but
the trafficator can rotate freely with no resistance. It looks
like the problem is inside the steering column. I will remove
the trafficator and lower stator tube and report back.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Do I need to be prepared for the steering box fluid to leak
out when the lower stator is removed?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Harold</div>
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<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Feb 13, 2023 at 3:20
AM Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net"
moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-freetext">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">The
short stator tube, connected to the control head, has three
dimples <br>
that ride in a slot in the long stator tube. The short stator
tube fits <br>
over the long stator tube. Looks to me that the slot was cut
with a <br>
slitting saw leaving a knife edge corners where the cracks
originate. <br>
I've made some long stator tubes, using an end mill to put a
round end <br>
to the slot as Bob suggests.<br>
<br>
Hank, the fishing line that you use - line used to catch fish
or to fish <br>
wires through walls (fish tape)? If the former, how do you
get the line <br>
feed through the tube? I would tie it to the harness and pull
it <br>
through when you remove the harness. Or using some bailing
wire to feed <br>
it through.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin-Healey 3000 roadster registrar<br>
<br>
On 2/12/23 20:39, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
> You have to pull the trafficator wiring harness up
through the stator <br>
> regardless to get the trafficator out and the wheel off.
Once you've <br>
> done that, I can't think of an easy way to grab the
stator, so you're <br>
> better off just pulling the stator out at the box (i.e.
'by the book').<br>
><br>
> Two things cause the trafficator to rotate with the
wheel: the stator <br>
> isn't secured by the olive and nut at the box end, or one
or both of <br>
> the sections--long lower and short upper--are damaged
somehow. They <br>
> aren't technically connected, the short upper part slides
inside the <br>
> lower and has a dimple that fits in a slot in the lower.
The slot is <br>
> cut square and it often cracks at the end (it should be
radiused IMO).<br>
><br>
> When you get everything back together, presumably with a
new stator, <br>
> make sure there's a small gap--20 thou or so--between the
trafficator <br>
> and the hub so the hub doesn't drag the trafficator when
you turn. <br>
> Check first to see that it's not just a loose olive and
nut; if so, it <br>
> will likely leak quite a bit, but it's an easy fix.<br>
><br>
> Bob<br>
><br>
> On 2/12/2023 2:49 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:<br>
>> Hello,<br>
>><br>
>> I have started to road test my car and discovered the
trafficator <br>
>> rotates with the steering wheel. The car has
adjustable steering and <br>
>> further investigation strongly indicates the upper
and lower stator <br>
>> tubes are not connecting inside the steering column.<br>
>><br>
>> Question - Can the lower stator tube be removed
through the steering <br>
>> wheel end of the steering column?<br>
>><br>
>> Any tips and suggestions on how to do this job are
appreciated.<br>
>><br>
>> Thanks... Harold<br>
>><br>
><br>
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