<html><body>The last 100 engine that I rebuilt was in 2015-gosh now 7 years gone- but I did all that you both describe, except adding a rear seal upgrade, but balancing the engine crank & bits...that cost was about $2500 and I too used a great machine shop in Eugene, Or.-Southworth- great guys, top notch work; engine went together perfect.<div><br></div><div>Recently, I had a head issue on the 100 and sent it over to Southworth and they maged it, pressure tested and shaved it to the tune of $170, so $$ have gone up a bit in 7 years. Hank, healeyhelper.com<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Steven Kingsbury via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>To: "S and T Miller"<br>Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>Sent: Tuesday April 5 2022 11:21:04AM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Sticker stock- machine shop labor<br><br>
<div>
<div>I rebuilt my 100 engine last year and had machine shop work
done. I took the shop my head first and I had already taken the
valves out, so all I needed was to have the head cleaned,
inspected, ever so slightly shaved as it was nice and flat and new
valve guides inserted and made sure they were 0.003 clearance for
my valves in each guide. Total cost for that was right at $200
US.<br></div>
<div>I then took them my block where they cleaned the block,
drilled out the cylinders, ordered new sleeves and inserted the
sleeves, bored them to fit my new pistons, honed them with a
beautiful cross hatch and again, made sure the top of the block was
nice and flat. Measured and polished my crank because it was in
good shape and sent out my cam to a specialty shop where it was
inspected and cleaned up with a slight re-grind. The cam was an M
spec cam to begin with. That work came to $950.<br></div>
<div>I was extremely pleased with the quality of their work and
although they did take a long time, I wasn't in a hurry, so I
didn't mind the time factor. It's a real old fashioned style of
shop and they build some really nice race car engines and have an
excellent reputation. <br></div>
<div>I am now assembling a MGB engine they just did for me, pretty
much the same scenario except the cylinders just needed a hone and
this time they took my valves out, installed new guides and put in
new valves and springs. So they cleaned the block, removed and
replaced cam bearings, bored and honed the block to 0.020 over,
clean and rebushed the rods, did a valve job, removed and replaced
the guides, installed new valve seats, resurfaced the head and
polish the crank. That work cost me $650. And that even included 5
quarts of Driven break in oil. <br></div>
<div>The shop is in Brookings, Oregon and I tipped them very well
with some wine, crackers, and a basket filled with assorted
different cheeses. And again, the quality of work is top
notch.<br></div>
<div>This shop came highly recommended by a friend in my hometown
and he was a Bonneville racer with more than a few speed records
out there. <br></div>
<div>So bottom line, I got a deal and everyone who uses this shop
gets a deal, as they are worth every penny they charge and I am
very fortunate to have them pretty much in "my backyard". (Thirty
miles from home)<br></div>
<div>Steven Kingsbury<br></div>
<div>BN1</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<blockquote>
<div>On Apr 4, 2022, at 5:06 PM, S and T Miller via Healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">It's
probably been 10 yrs since I last rebuilt an AH engine, so I might
just be out of touch the rising costs. Has anyone recently had
machine shop work done on a 100 engine and could you let me know if
what I paid seems reasonable? I've had work done at this particular
shop and consider them the best around, so the quality of work
isn't questioned. Keep in mind I supplied all parts (valves,
springs, guides, cam bearings, freeze plugs, etc.). Also I
delivered a disassembled engine, and I'm assembling the
engine. <br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">Clean
and machine stock flywheel $140<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">Head-
cook, Magna Flux, replace guides, machine seats/ guides,
resurface, and assembly $510<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">Clean,
Magna flux and resize rods $260<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">Clean/
grind crank and machine slinger area for rear seal kit
$580<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">Block-
cook, deck, install one cylinder sleeve, bore all 4, line bore
mains, install cam bearings, install freeze plugs, machine lip off
rear main cap for rear seal kit. $1,675<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">I know
this is a loaded question, and really just curious if these
seem a bit inflated. When I Googled average costs, it seems high,
but then again, it's not a Chevy. <br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">TY,
Shawn<br></div>
<div style="font-family:inherit;font-size:inherit;color:inherit;">
<br></div>
<div>
<div>The Millers<br></div>
<div> <br></div>
<div>"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car
is a test drive."<br></div>
</div>
<div>
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