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<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>After re soldering the tube in place put a small bead of black silicone
around the joint to make sure it is sealed. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">David
Nock<BR>healeydoc@sbcglobal.net<BR>209 948
8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com<BR><BR>Help us have our Founder Norman
Nock inducteed into the <BR>British Sportscar Hall of Fame, You can vote for
your favorites <BR>by visiting the site
at.<BR>www.britishsportscarhalloffame.org<BR></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style="BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style="font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A
title=boyracer466@gmail.com>Ricchardd Mayor</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, February 16, 2022 9:10 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=healeyguy@aol.com>Perry Small</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=healeys@autox.team.net>healeys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Steering box rebuild part
two</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV
style='FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: "Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; DISPLAY: inline'>Reassembly
of tube: After cleaning both surfaces I apply some rosin flux to both
surfaces and reinsert the tube. I then use an oxy torch to heat the box and tube
and apply rosin core solder to the joint. It doesn’t take very much
solder.
<DIV>When you think about it, after it cools there is little or no stress on the
joint. The box is bolted to the chassis with 3 big bolts. The column is
clamped to the brace on the bulkhead and there is (or should be) a brace on the
side from the column clamp to the A pillar area. Turning the steering wheel does
not put any stress on the column. Having said that, if the column is bent, or if
the steering shaft is bent, there will be some side pressure on the column and
that will be applied to the upper end of the column through the large felt
bushing.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV apple-content-edited="true">
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">
<DIV
style="WORD-WRAP: break-word; WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0); LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">
<DIV>Richard Mayor</DIV>
<DIV>Portland, Oregon</DIV>
<DIV><A>boyracer466@gmail.com</A></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV><BR class=Apple-interchange-newline><BR
class=Apple-interchange-newline></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
<DIV>On Feb 15, 2022, at 5:01 PM, Perry Small via Healeys
<<A>healeys@autox.team.net</A>> wrote:</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
style="WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FLOAT: none; FONT: 12px helvetica; DISPLAY: inline !important; LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">I
have not dismantled tube from box previously but have put one back together
for an owner. </SPAN>
<DIV
style="WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FONT: 12px helvetica; LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">Cleaned
the mating surfaces gently with a wire brush and heated with propane torch
until the tube would slide back into the box.</DIV>
<DIV
style="WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FONT: 12px helvetica; LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">Warmed
again and tried to add solder to insure a seal at the joint. </DIV>
<DIV
style="WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FONT: 12px helvetica; LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">Seemed
to work ok. Suspect dismantling would work the same. </DIV>
<DIV
style="WHITE-SPACE: normal; WORD-SPACING: 0px; TEXT-TRANSFORM: none; FONT: 12px helvetica; LETTER-SPACING: normal; TEXT-INDENT: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px">P<BR><BR>
<DIV dir=ltr>Sent from my iPhone</DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">On Feb 15, 2022, at 4:59 PM, Michael Salter via
Healeys <<A>healeys@autox.team.net</A>>
wrote:<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE type="cite">
<DIV dir=ltr>
<DIV>Answered my own question ... yes ... easy as 😊</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Tue., Feb. 15, 2022, 4:27 p.m. Michael
Salter, <<A>michaelsalter@gmail.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>Next question ... this applies to the later BN2 steering box.
<DIV>The steering box tube appears to be soldered onto the cast steel
steering box itself.</DIV>
<DIV>I need to remove the tube to straighten it. Is this just a case of
heating gently and pulling the tube out?</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>M</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Tue., Feb. 15, 2022, 4:19 p.m. Michael
Salter, <<A rel=noreferrer
target=_blank>michaelsalter@gmail.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>Well, while we are on the subject of steering boxes
<DIV>1. I have 2 steering shafts but the worms have different part
numbers. </DIV>
<DIV>One, dated 4 56 has the number 16390N </DIV>
<DIV>The other dated 4 58 has the number 16390 ( no N) and that
one has serrations on the upper circumference. (See pic)</DIV>
<DIV>Otherwise these appear to be identical ... does anyone know
what the difference is?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>M</DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>
<DIV class=gmail_attr dir=ltr>On Tue., Feb. 15, 2022, 2:51 p.m. Henry G
Leach via Healeys, <<A rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer"
target=_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote
style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>That is good work, Ray! Bet the steering feel is perfect. Wish
you could do my sloppy steering. Hank<BR><BR>
<DIV></DIV>
<P>-----------------------------------------</P>From: "Ray Juncal via
Healeys"<SPAN class=Apple-converted-space> </SPAN><U></U><BR>To:
"List Healey"<BR>Cc:<SPAN
class=Apple-converted-space> </SPAN><BR>Sent: Tuesday February 15
2022 11:33:43AM<BR>Subject: [Healeys] Steering box rebuild part
two<BR><BR>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 16px; FONT-FAMILY: 'Helvetica Neue', helvetica, arial, sans-serif">
<DIV dir=ltr> Here's some additional photos that wouldn't
fit in the first post. Also interesting info courtesy of Steve Pike
about set up. There is a slot in the end of the shaft and on the
Pitman arm. Align these slots so that the arm and the "peg" ( the
follower that rides in the worm gear above ) are in the correct
relationship.<BR></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr> The high spot on the worm gear may not be
exactly on center lock to lock. You may want to find that spot and
mark it on the arm or shaft with a corresponding mark on the case as a
starting point to align the wheels. Steve I hope I explained that
right. If not please
clarify.<BR></DIV></DIV><U></U></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR>Support
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