<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">I have not dismantled tube from box previously but have put one back together for an owner. <div>Cleaned the mating surfaces gently with a wire brush and heated with propane torch until the tube would slide back into the box.</div><div>Warmed again and tried to add solder to insure a seal at the joint. </div><div>Seemed to work ok. Suspect dismantling would work the same. </div><div>P<br><br><div dir="ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Feb 15, 2022, at 4:59 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="auto">Answered my own question ... yes ... easy as 😊</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue., Feb. 15, 2022, 4:27 p.m. Michael Salter, <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Next question ... this applies to the later BN2 steering box.<div dir="auto">The steering box tube appears to be soldered onto the cast steel steering box itself.</div><div dir="auto">I need to remove the tube to straighten it. Is this just a case of heating gently and pulling the tube out?</div><div dir="auto">Thanks.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue., Feb. 15, 2022, 4:19 p.m. Michael Salter, <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">Well, while we are on the subject of steering boxes<div dir="auto">1. I have 2 steering shafts but the worms have different part numbers. </div><div dir="auto">One, dated 4 56 has the number 16390N </div><div dir="auto">The other dated 4 58 has the number 16390 ( no N) and that one has serrations on the upper circumference. (See pic)</div><div dir="auto">Otherwise these appear to be identical ... does anyone know what the difference is?</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue., Feb. 15, 2022, 2:51 p.m. Henry G Leach via Healeys, <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>That is good work, Ray! Bet the steering feel is perfect. Wish you could do my sloppy steering. Hank<br><br><div></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Ray Juncal via Healeys" <u></u><br>To: "List Healey"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Tuesday February 15 2022 11:33:43AM<br>Subject: [Healeys] Steering box rebuild part two<br><br>
<div style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:16px">
<div dir="ltr"> Here's some
additional photos that wouldn't fit in the first post. Also
interesting info courtesy of Steve Pike about set up. There is a
slot in the end of the shaft and on the Pitman arm. Align these
slots so that the arm and the "peg" ( the follower that rides in
the worm gear above ) are in the correct relationship.<br></div>
<div dir="ltr"> The high spot on
the worm gear may not be exactly on center lock to lock. You may
want to find that spot and mark it on the arm or shaft with a
corresponding mark on the case as a starting point to align the
wheels. Steve I hope I explained that right. If not please
clarify.<br></div>
</div>
<u></u></div>
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