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Thanks, Steve. <br>
<br>
Thanks to that release bearing design I got into the habit of
shifting into neutral at stoplights (instead of just holding the
clutch pedal down). I think it's a good habit overall--issues
getting back into first notwithstanding--as I've had my foot slip
off the pedal on occasion.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/1/2021 12:01 PM, BJ8Healeys via
Healeys wrote:<br>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">In January
2014, I removed the
gearbox and overdrive from my BJ8 to fix a problem with the
O/D slipping (low
oil pressure) and a bad clutch judder in reverse that I had
put up with for too
long.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">I replaced the
clutch release
bearing for convenience and because I already had the new
one in hand. The
new bearing carbon block from Moss Motors measured 10/32”
thick.
The old one (also Moss Motors, installed September 1997)
measured 9/32”.
That was only 1/32” wear in 80,534 miles, but mostly
long-distance ones.
A photo of the old clutch disc is attached.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Steve Byers<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">HBJ8L/36666<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">BJ8 Registry<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">AHCA Delegate
at Large<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="color:#1F497D">Havelock, NC
USA<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a name="_MailEndCompose"
moz-do-not-send="true"><span style="color:#1F497D"><o:p> </o:p></span></a></p>
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1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Healeys
[<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Bob Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, September 1, 2021 11:55 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Clutch<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">As for clutch
longevity, there
are several significant variables: (your) location, type of
driving, driving
style, etc. For example, if you DD your car in San Francisco,
I wouldn't expect
a clutch to last 50K miles, if that long. If you mostly drive
highway miles, I
think 100K is easily doable; I traded my '08 Mustang in at
124K miles with
original clutch <i>and</i> brakes. Although I've been driving
manual cars for
over 50 years, I still don't feel I've 'mastered' them (like
landings in
an aircraft). Dump the clutch too quickly and you'll increase
longevity--if you
don't break anything--at the expense of smoothness, be very
delicate and slip
it too much and you won't get 'normal' longevity. Actually,
IMO Healeys are
relatively easier to drive well, a properly set-up clutch with
a Healey's
torque makes smooth starts easier; my '19 Mustang is
high-strung by comparison
and I still manage to stall it occasionally.<br>
<br>
The release bearing can be problematic as, unlike a true
bearing it's a known
wear item. I heard a while back there were some low quality
parts going around
that failed within a few thousand miles. I'd say if it's more
than one-third worn--anyone
know the original thickness of the graphite?--I'd replace it
(again, depending
on driving circumstances). <br>
Bob<o:p></o:p></p>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoListParagraph"> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New
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</blockquote>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New
Roman","serif""><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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