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BN2 disk brake conversion</div>
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I had a shop do it using the Dennis Welch kit...You need to replace the rear wheel cylinders with those of 3/4" bore. Also might want to install the dust covers usually not included with the kits. May need to do some "plumbing" mods..ie hoses etc ? Have not
seen my job yet.</div>
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George McHarris</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, August 6, 2021 11:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 283</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
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<div class="PlainText">Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
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Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. Disc Brake Conversion BN2 (Brian Drab)<br>
2. Re: rear axle nut (Mark Fawcett)<br>
3. BN2 armacord floor snap (S and T Miller)<br>
4. Re: Rear axel nut socket size (Harold Manifold)<br>
5. Vendor Info - Pal-Tech Carb Service (cbaustin@verizon.net)<br>
6. Re: 100 lifters (Bob Spidell)<br>
7. Re: 100 lifters (i erbs)<br>
8. Re: 100 lifters (Steven Kingsbury)<br>
9. Re: 100 lifters (i erbs)<br>
10. Valvoline VR-1 (Tom)<br>
11. Re: 100 lifters (gradea1@charter.net)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 19:14:47 +0000<br>
From: Brian Drab <bgdrab@redzone.ca><br>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Disc Brake Conversion BN2<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<YTXPR0101MB1855C03FD898CA62AE15DACEABF29@YTXPR0101MB1855.CANPRD01.PROD.OUTLOOK.COM><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"<br>
<br>
I am assisting a friend and am doing a brake job on his BN2. He wants me to consider doing a front disc brake conversion on the car - which I have never done. I've looked at the usual suppliers for kits i.e. Moss, Dennis Welch, AH Spares and others. There seems
to be quite a difference in pricing for essentially the same thing.<br>
Does anyone have any in formation or hints on this conversion and where to get a good quality and inclusive kit. I'd rather get all the parts in one package rather than order bit by bit.<br>
Any hints or pitfalls with the actual install? One concern I have is the Master Cylinder. The car has had a recent master cylinder replacement, so condition is not a question. Will the original master cylinder provide the necessary force to properly operate
the discs, and is a booster necessary or suggested?<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
Brian Drab , Vancouver, BC<br>
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Message: 2<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 14:49:56 -0700<br>
From: Mark Fawcett <m.fawcett@cox.net><br>
To: healeymanjim <healeymanjim@hansencc.net><br>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] rear axle nut<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAMoKZw91gT6Cy=iaUMKpDwfVV+odrtJpuBgNqyD9nBB39sfwag@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Actually a 2 3/16" 12 point socket fit the rear axle 8 sided nut on my 1959<br>
BT7. It's a bit tight but works. I later made a wrench similar to the one<br>
Moss sells, but I never had the need to use it.<br>
<br>
Mark Fawcett<br>
<br>
On Thu, Aug 5, 2021 at 10:07 AM healeymanjim via Healeys <<br>
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
> i was unable to use any sockets due to the nut having eight sides.<br>
> finally bought the tool from moss that fits.<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
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Message: 3<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 22:32:04 +0000<br>
From: S and T Miller <stmiller96@hotmail.com><br>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] BN2 armacord floor snap<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<BL0PR04MB4881DAF6FB170FA7C6E956A8D4F29@BL0PR04MB4881.namprd04.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"<br>
<br>
I have only found one snap/hole in the original floor holding the armacord floor piece that goes under the seat. It is in the middle "tooth" section toward the inner side. I'm fairly certain that this was the original fastening practice, but wanted to check
with the experts.<br>
TY, Shawn<br>
<br>
The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."<br>
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Message: 4<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 17:06:55 -0700<br>
From: Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net><br>
To: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com>, Healey Mail List<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Rear axel nut socket size<br>
Message-ID: <54C69F22-CF62-4C26-8DCB-3F1A2F2A671F@hxcore.ol><br>
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<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2021 02:00:12 +0000 (UTC)<br>
From: cbaustin@verizon.net<br>
To: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Vendor Info - Pal-Tech Carb Service<br>
Message-ID: <744424435.176111.1628215212189@mail.yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Is this outfit in operation? Tried several times to contactwith no response. Followed website instructions regardsphone calls for 'Contact'. His 'preferred'?first contact pointis a text but I don't text. Could that be it?<br>
<a href="http://paltech1.com/">http://paltech1.com/</a><br>
<br>
Thanks, best to all,<br>
Charley<br>
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Message: 6<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 20:44:09 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 lifters<br>
Message-ID: <ffd4e4bd-2925-19c8-3692-03d7f20c5952@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
I was going to suggest a 'gun-drilled' cam from DWM, but it appears they <br>
don't make them for the 4-cyl cars. Putting extra oil on the wear <br>
surfaces has to be a good thing.<br>
<br>
<br>
On 8/5/2021 5:39 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<br>
> The first sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which had <br>
> initially been silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.<br>
> After adjusting they were still audible and had previously been silent.<br>
> Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir" in the <br>
> drain plug magnet.<br>
> I'm very disappointed to have destroyed a very low mileage "M" cam and <br>
> a set of NOS lifters that I had been saving for decades.<br>
> I'm seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters manufactured <br>
> but at over $1000 a set its a serious investment.<br>
><br>
> M<br>
><br>
> On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <br>
> <airtightproductions@icloud.com <br>
> <<a href="mailto:airtightproductions@icloud.com">mailto:airtightproductions@icloud.com</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> I just rebuilt my 100 engine and purchased my lifters from AH<br>
> Spares in the UK. These were their new design for better oil flow.<br>
> I now have 1000 miles or so on the new engine and once I got my<br>
> problems figured out with my distributor, the car is running well<br>
> and smooth.<br>
> ???Now I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop! What<br>
> problems did you have pointing you to the lifters as the source of<br>
> those problems? When I retorqued the head, I readjusted the<br>
> rockers and found no problems. They were a little off, but I<br>
> expected a little.<br>
> ???What should I be looking for? I used Driven Break In oil and<br>
> then I switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles. I have been<br>
> driving the car to build up some trust in it and it's turning in<br>
> to a joy to drive. I've got M mods on this engine, cam, H6 carbs,<br>
> M pistons and these new lifters. So far, so good.<br>
> ???Thanks for your help,<br>
> Steven Kingsbury<br>
> BN1<br>
><br>
> On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys<br>
> <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
>> After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters that I installed in my<br>
>> engine with a very low mileage "M" cam have started to deteriorate.<br>
>> This engine has had a steady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has<br>
>> had 4 changes in 6K miles.<br>
>> Very disappointing.<br>
>> I'm? considering trying bucket type Buick lifters with longer<br>
>> push rods and a new cam.<br>
>> Does anyone have experience with the durability of the old Buick<br>
>> lifters ... getting a little desperate here.<br>
>> Fortunately I caught this issue before it ruined the engine.<br>
>><br>
>> M<br>
>><br>
<br>
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Message: 7<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 21:20:59 -0700<br>
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com><br>
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, Ahealey help<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 lifters<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CABXhz88ZU26Sgm9mijni9r8hkJYgcESO-iKmCyBVgMi0j8WOwQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Typically it's brass not ferrous. So no metal at all in the filter?<br>
<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
1959 AH 100-6<br>
1967 MGB<br>
Milwaukie, OR<br>
<br>
On Thu, Aug 5, 2021, 9:09 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <<br>
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
> Thanks for the feedback. My tappets have never been silent. They have<br>
> always made noise and though not as loud as my '68 MGB/GT that I had,<br>
> they're not quiet. And after having adjusted them when I retorqued the head<br>
> at 500 mile mark, they still weren't silent. They sound like my old BN1<br>
> did. And because I have louvered bonnet on this car, they seem even a bit<br>
> louder, but with the bonnet up and running in the garage, they sound almost<br>
> exactly like my old car. Now when I'm out driving they seem pretty silent<br>
> and the engine runs very smooth.<br>
> As for "fir" in the oil. When I drained my engine at the 500 mile mark,<br>
> I ran all of the oil through a fine, paint filter and then used a magnet in<br>
> the filter. Nothing appeared on the magnet. I also took the magnet and ran<br>
> it through the oil before I poured it through the filter, and again<br>
> nothing. I even ran the magnet through the empty drain pan after<br>
> transferring the oil, and again, nothing.<br>
> Sorry to hear about your troubles and thank you for the tips on what to<br>
> listen for and what to look for. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.<br>
> And just to be clear, these lifters you used are not the new "new" ones<br>
> available through AH Spares. Rather they are New Old Stock ones that have<br>
> been in you possession for quite a while now, right?<br>
> Again, good luck and hopefully the cam isn't completely destroyed and<br>
> you caught it in time.<br>
> Thanks!<br>
> Steven<br>
><br>
> On August 5, 2021 at 5:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
> wrote:<br>
><br>
> The first sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which had<br>
> initially been silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.<br>
> After adjusting they were still audible and had previously been silent.<br>
> Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir" in the drain<br>
> plug magnet.<br>
> I'm very disappointed to have destroyed a very low mileage "M" cam and a<br>
> set of NOS lifters that I had been saving for decades.<br>
> I'm seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters manufactured but<br>
> at over $1000 a set its a serious investment.<br>
><br>
> M<br>
><br>
> On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <<br>
> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:<br>
><br>
>> I just rebuilt my 100 engine and purchased my lifters from AH Spares in<br>
>> the UK. These were their new design for better oil flow. I now have 1000<br>
>> miles or so on the new engine and once I got my problems figured out with<br>
>> my distributor, the car is running well and smooth.<br>
>> Now I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop! What problems<br>
>> did you have pointing you to the lifters as the source of those problems?<br>
>> When I retorqued the head, I readjusted the rockers and found no problems.<br>
>> They were a little off, but I expected a little.<br>
>> What should I be looking for? I used Driven Break In oil and then I<br>
>> switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles. I have been driving the car to<br>
>> build up some trust in it and it's turning in to a joy to drive. I've got M<br>
>> mods on this engine, cam, H6 carbs, M pistons and these new lifters. So<br>
>> far, so good.<br>
>> Thanks for your help,<br>
>> Steven Kingsbury<br>
>> BN1<br>
>><br>
>> On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <<br>
>> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters that I installed in my engine<br>
>> with a very low mileage "M" cam have started to deteriorate.<br>
>> This engine has had a steady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has had 4<br>
>> changes in 6K miles.<br>
>> Very disappointing.<br>
>> I'm considering trying bucket type Buick lifters with longer push rods<br>
>> and a new cam.<br>
>> Does anyone have experience with the durability of the old Buick lifters<br>
>> ... getting a little desperate here.<br>
>> Fortunately I caught this issue before it ruined the engine.<br>
>><br>
>> M<br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>><br>
>> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>><br>
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:<br>
>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com</a><br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
><br>
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Message: 8<br>
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2021 05:34:12 -0000<br>
From: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com><br>
To: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 lifters<br>
Message-ID: <816bcad0-8bfd-4899-bd4d-509f178ecded@me.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Nope. No metal. And why would there be brass??<br>
<br>
On August 5, 2021 at 9:21 PM, i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
Typically it's brass not ferrous. So no metal at all in the filter?<br>
<br>
<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
1959 AH 100-6<br>
1967 MGB<br>
Milwaukie, OR<br>
<br>
<br>
On Thu, Aug 5, 2021, 9:09 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
Thanks for the feedback. My tappets have never been silent. They have always made noise and though not as loud as my '68 MGB/GT that I had, they're not quiet. And after having adjusted them when I retorqued the head at 500 mile mark, they still weren't silent.
They sound like my old BN1 did. And because I have louvered bonnet on this car, they seem even a bit louder, but with the bonnet up and running in the garage, they sound almost exactly like my old car. Now when I'm out driving they seem pretty silent and the
engine runs very smooth.<br>
???As for "fir" in the oil. When I drained my engine at the 500 mile mark, I ran all of the oil through a fine, paint filter and then used a magnet in the filter. Nothing appeared on the magnet. I also took the magnet and ran it through the oil before I poured
it through the filter, and again nothing. I even ran the magnet through the empty drain pan after transferring the oil, and again, nothing.<br>
???Sorry to hear about your troubles and thank you for the tips on what to listen for and what to look for. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. And just to be clear, these lifters you used are not the new "new" ones available through AH Spares. Rather
they are New Old Stock ones that have been in you possession for quite a while now, right??<br>
???Again, good luck and hopefully the cam isn't completely destroyed and you caught it in time.?<br>
Thanks!<br>
Steven<br>
<br>
On August 5, 2021 at 5:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
The first sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which had initially been silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.<br>
After adjusting they were still audible and had previously been silent.<br>
Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir" in the drain plug magnet.<br>
I'm very disappointed to have destroyed a very low mileage "M" cam and a set of NOS lifters that I had been saving for decades.<br>
I'm seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters manufactured but at over $1000 a set its a serious investment.<br>
<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
<br>
On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
I just rebuilt my 100 engine and purchased my lifters from AH Spares in the UK. These were their new design for better oil flow. I now have 1000 miles or so on the new engine and once I got my problems figured out with my distributor, the car is running well
and smooth.<br>
???Now I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop! What problems did you have pointing you to the lifters as the source of those problems? When I retorqued the head, I readjusted the rockers and found no problems. They were a little off, but I expected
a little.<br>
???What should I be looking for? I used Driven Break In oil and then I switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles. I have been driving the car to build up some trust in it and it's turning in to a joy to drive. I've got M mods on this engine, cam, H6 carbs, M
pistons and these new lifters. So far, so good.?<br>
???Thanks for your help,<br>
Steven Kingsbury<br>
BN1<br>
<br>
On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters that I installed in my engine with a very low mileage "M" cam have started to deteriorate.?<br>
This engine has had a steady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has had 4 changes in 6K miles.?<br>
Very disappointing.?<br>
I'm? considering trying bucket type Buick lifters with longer push rods and a new cam.<br>
Does anyone have experience with the durability of the old Buick lifters ... getting a little desperate here.<br>
Fortunately I caught this issue before it ruined the engine.<br>
<br>
<br>
M<br>
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<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2021 22:37:39 -0700<br>
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
To: Steven Kingsbury <airtightproductions@icloud.com><br>
Cc: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 lifters<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CABXhz88TGFsCfz1_AWFOJX11f6kVto7pef1DC3NVHXYJELEmDQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Rod and crank bearings...<br>
<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
1959 AH 100-6<br>
1967 MGB<br>
Milwaukie, OR<br>
<br>
On Thu, Aug 5, 2021, 10:34 PM Steven Kingsbury <<br>
airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
> Nope. No metal. And why would there be brass?<br>
><br>
> On August 5, 2021 at 9:21 PM, i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Typically it's brass not ferrous. So no metal at all in the filter?<br>
><br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
> 1959 AH 100-6<br>
> 1967 MGB<br>
> Milwaukie, OR<br>
><br>
> On Thu, Aug 5, 2021, 9:09 PM Steven Kingsbury via Healeys <<br>
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
><br>
>> Thanks for the feedback. My tappets have never been silent. They have<br>
>> always made noise and though not as loud as my '68 MGB/GT that I had,<br>
>> they're not quiet. And after having adjusted them when I retorqued the head<br>
>> at 500 mile mark, they still weren't silent. They sound like my old BN1<br>
>> did. And because I have louvered bonnet on this car, they seem even a bit<br>
>> louder, but with the bonnet up and running in the garage, they sound almost<br>
>> exactly like my old car. Now when I'm out driving they seem pretty silent<br>
>> and the engine runs very smooth.<br>
>> As for "fir" in the oil. When I drained my engine at the 500 mile<br>
>> mark, I ran all of the oil through a fine, paint filter and then used a<br>
>> magnet in the filter. Nothing appeared on the magnet. I also took the<br>
>> magnet and ran it through the oil before I poured it through the filter,<br>
>> and again nothing. I even ran the magnet through the empty drain pan after<br>
>> transferring the oil, and again, nothing.<br>
>> Sorry to hear about your troubles and thank you for the tips on what<br>
>> to listen for and what to look for. Good luck with whatever you decide to<br>
>> do. And just to be clear, these lifters you used are not the new "new" ones<br>
>> available through AH Spares. Rather they are New Old Stock ones that have<br>
>> been in you possession for quite a while now, right?<br>
>> Again, good luck and hopefully the cam isn't completely destroyed and<br>
>> you caught it in time.<br>
>> Thanks!<br>
>> Steven<br>
>><br>
>> On August 5, 2021 at 5:39 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
>> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> The first sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which had<br>
>> initially been silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.<br>
>> After adjusting they were still audible and had previously been silent.<br>
>> Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir" in the drain<br>
>> plug magnet.<br>
>> I'm very disappointed to have destroyed a very low mileage "M" cam and a<br>
>> set of NOS lifters that I had been saving for decades.<br>
>> I'm seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters manufactured but<br>
>> at over $1000 a set its a serious investment.<br>
>><br>
>> M<br>
>><br>
>> On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, <<br>
>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>>> I just rebuilt my 100 engine and purchased my lifters from AH Spares in<br>
>>> the UK. These were their new design for better oil flow. I now have 1000<br>
>>> miles or so on the new engine and once I got my problems figured out with<br>
>>> my distributor, the car is running well and smooth.<br>
>>> Now I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop! What problems<br>
>>> did you have pointing you to the lifters as the source of those problems?<br>
>>> When I retorqued the head, I readjusted the rockers and found no problems.<br>
>>> They were a little off, but I expected a little.<br>
>>> What should I be looking for? I used Driven Break In oil and then I<br>
>>> switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles. I have been driving the car to<br>
>>> build up some trust in it and it's turning in to a joy to drive. I've got M<br>
>>> mods on this engine, cam, H6 carbs, M pistons and these new lifters. So<br>
>>> far, so good.<br>
>>> Thanks for your help,<br>
>>> Steven Kingsbury<br>
>>> BN1<br>
>>><br>
>>> On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys <<br>
>>> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
>>><br>
>>> After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters that I installed in my engine<br>
>>> with a very low mileage "M" cam have started to deteriorate.<br>
>>> This engine has had a steady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has had 4<br>
>>> changes in 6K miles.<br>
>>> Very disappointing.<br>
>>> I'm considering trying bucket type Buick lifters with longer push rods<br>
>>> and a new cam.<br>
>>> Does anyone have experience with the durability of the old Buick lifters<br>
>>> ... getting a little desperate here.<br>
>>> Fortunately I caught this issue before it ruined the engine.<br>
>>><br>
>>> M<br>
>>> _______________________________________________<br>
>>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>>><br>
>>> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a><br>
>>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
>>><br>
>>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
>>><br>
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/airtightproductions@icloud.com</a><br>
>>><br>
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>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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>><br>
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>><br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2021 08:52:30 -0400<br>
From: Tom <ah3000me@gmail.com><br>
To: Healey Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Valvoline VR-1<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CANQM1PJOb_aMweHK-Xe9kFgj=xvL8KnumRuKMv-xkjgCnnYy8w@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Woot.com has a six-pack of VR-1 for $20. Shipping is free if you sign in<br>
with your Amazon.com account.<br>
<br>
- Tom<br>
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<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2021 17:29:04 +0000<br>
From: gradea1@charter.net<br>
To: "'Steven Kingsbury'" <airtightproductions@icloud.com><br>
Cc: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>,<br>
"'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 lifters<br>
Message-ID: <25b5138f5668a5d91c5504d8c5ab461d23f09895@webmail><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I like the "clackity" sound of my 100...I keep the lifters "loose" so<br>
as not to burn a valve seat or push rod, and I did add zinc upon<br>
rebuild and also poured it down the PR holes onto the cam prior to<br>
startup. My 100 is just 10 cars from Steven's old #598 and that was<br>
one original car. These cars will never sound as quite as the 6-cyls.<br>
A good source for cam repair is Delta Cams, in Washington state. They<br>
will weld up and regrind any damage. Great work and reasonable. Hank<br>
#588<br>
<br>
-----------------------------------------From: "Steven Kingsbury via<br>
Healeys" <br>
To: "Michael Salter"<br>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>
Sent: Thursday August 5 2021 9:09:39PM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 lifters<br>
<br>
Thanks for the feedback. My tappets have never been silent. They have<br>
always made noise and though not as loud as my '68 MGB/GT that I had,<br>
they're not quiet. And after having adjusted them when I retorqued the<br>
head at 500 mile mark, they still weren't silent. They sound like my<br>
old BN1 did. And because I have louvered bonnet on this car, they seem<br>
even a bit louder, but with the bonnet up and running in the garage,<br>
they sound almost exactly like my old car. Now when I'm out driving<br>
they seem pretty silent and the engine runs very smooth. As for "fir"<br>
in the oil. When I drained my engine at the 500 mile mark, I ran all<br>
of the oil through a fine, paint filter and then used a magnet in the<br>
filter. Nothing appeared on the magnet. I also took the magnet and ran<br>
it through the oil before I poured it through the filter, and again<br>
nothing. I even ran the magnet through the empty drain pan after<br>
transferring the oil, and again, nothing. Sorry to hear about your<br>
troubles and thank you for the tips on what to listen for and what to<br>
look for. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. And just to be<br>
clear, these lifters you used are not the new "new" ones available<br>
through AH Spares. Rather they are New Old Stock ones that have been<br>
in you possession for quite a while now, right? Again, good luck and<br>
hopefully the cam isn't completely destroyed and you caught it in<br>
time. Thanks! Steven <br>
On August 5, 2021 at 5:39 AM, Michael Salter wrote:<br>
<br>
The first sign of problems was having to adjust the tappets which<br>
had initially been silent after 2000 miles and then again at 4500.<br>
After adjusting they were still audible and had previously been<br>
silent. Then at the 2000 and 4000 mile oil changes there was "fir" in<br>
the drain plug magnet. I'm very disappointed to have destroyed a very<br>
low mileage "M" cam and a set of NOS lifters that I had been saving<br>
for decades. I'm seriously considering having silicon nitride lifters<br>
manufactured but at over $1000 a set its a serious investment. <br>
M <br>
On Wed., Aug. 4, 2021, 10:47 a.m. Steven Kingsbury, wrote:<br>
I just rebuilt my 100 engine and purchased my lifters from AH<br>
Spares in the UK. These were their new design for better oil flow. I<br>
now have 1000 miles or so on the new engine and once I got my problems<br>
figured out with my distributor, the car is running well and smooth. <br>
Now I'm wondering when the other shoe is going to drop! What problems<br>
did you have pointing you to the lifters as the source of those<br>
problems? When I retorqued the head, I readjusted the rockers and<br>
found no problems. They were a little off, but I expected a little. <br>
What should I be looking for? I used Driven Break In oil and then I<br>
switched to VR1 like you after 500 miles. I have been driving the car<br>
to build up some trust in it and it's turning in to a joy to drive.<br>
I've got M mods on this engine, cam, H6 carbs, M pistons and these new<br>
lifters. So far, so good. Thanks for your help, Steven Kingsbury BN1<br>
<br>
On August 3, 2021 at 5:19 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:<br>
<br>
After only 6000 miles the NOS BMC lifters that I installed in my<br>
engine with a very low mileage "M" cam have started to deteriorate.<br>
This engine has had a steady diet of VR1 non synthetic and it has had<br>
4 changes in 6K miles. Very disappointing. I'm considering trying<br>
bucket type Buick lifters with longer push rods and a new cam. Does<br>
anyone have experience with the durability of the old Buick lifters<br>
... getting a little desperate here. Fortunately I caught this issue<br>
before it ruined the engine. <br>
M _______________________________________________<br>
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