<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto">I’ve used DOT 5 silicone fluid for many years, and no problems.<div>My only reservation with it is - if something goes wrong with your servo, the fluid will be sucked through the manifold into the engine, and you don’t want that!</div><div>I’ve changed the size of my master cylinder and bypassed the servo so that I can continue to use DOT 5. Again, no problems, but I do tend to do some work on the brakes often enough to change the fluid within the required period.</div><div><br></div><div>Stephen, BJ8</div><div><br><div id="AppleMailSignature" dir="ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Jul 26, 2021, at 5:16 PM, Richard Collins via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr">
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I had one and it worked well. Lasted about 2 years.
<div>My wrench has one and swears by it. But other than the Healey, I track my cars so change fluid frequently. DOT4 HiTemp for them, DOT4 regular for the Healey. No problems. Never used silicone even though I completely rebuilt and or replaced the Healey
system last year (calipers, drums, and lines)<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Regards,
<div>Richard C</div>
<div>BN7 440</div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Jul 26, 2021, at 15:26, Roger Grace via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>Does anyone have an opinion as to the accuracy of those cheepo pen style brake fluid moisture detectors ?</div>
<div>You dip the probes into the reservoir and they give led indication for range % moisture present.</div>
<div>Just wondering ... ??</div>
<div>rg<br>
</div>
</div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Jul 26, 2021 at 4:55 AM bluehealey <<a href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com">bluehealey@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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Now that is a perfect checklist Simon. Captures everything you need to know. <br>
In addition I work on the basis that glycol mixtures, if neglected (not flushed) for more than 3-4 years, can cause minor problems with the hardware.
<br>
Silicone, if neglected for a similar period, can cause major problems with the hardware.
<br>
Guess which I choose to use. <br>
<br>
AlanB - iPhone message.<br>
<br>
> On 26 Jul 2021, at 09:57, Simon Lachlan via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> I was getting myself in a muddle over brake fluid once so I made myself some<br>
> notes. Probably pinched from Google; I don't recall:-<br>
> <br>
> 1) All brake fluid is "synthetic".it's not a "natural" product.<br>
> 2) Most synthetic fluids are NOT silicone. They are polyethylene glycol<br>
> ether based.<br>
> 3) DOT 3 & 4, which can be mixed, are not silicone. They are glycol.<br>
> 4) DOT 5, which cannot be mixed with 3 or 4, is silicone. Can't be<br>
> mixed with anything!<br>
> 5) DOT 5.1 is glycol based and cannot be mixed with DOT 5.<br>
> 6) DOT 5.1 can be mixed with DOT 3 or 4, as both are glycol based.<br>
> <br>
> The word "synthetic" began to appear when manufacturers worked out that it<br>
> made regular brake fluid sound more special ie they could charge us more<br>
> money for the same old stuff.<br>
> <br>
> DOT stands for Dept. Of Transport and relates to the fluids' boiling points.<br>
> If a car brakes at high speed, the brakes get hot. Some heat is carried away<br>
> from the brakes by the brake fluid. Bad news if the fluid boils! The faster<br>
> you're going, the higher DOT you need. Higher DOT numbers indicate higher<br>
> boiling points for "Dry" fluid (has not absorbed any water) and "Wet" fluids<br>
> (has absorbed water). ie, the wetter it is, the more problematic it becomes.<br>
> Mixing 3 with 4 lowers the boiling points and vice verca.<br>
> <br>
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