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Perfect, exactly the info I needed. Thank you.</div>
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<div>The Millers<br>
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"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."<br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Peter Svilans <svilanspeter@xplornet.ca><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, July 13, 2021 1:20 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller <stmiller96@hotmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 seat recovering</font>
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<p>Hi Shawn,</p>
<p>(B) was the original method used by trimmers skilled in curved needle work.</p>
<p>(A) can be used with our modern SuperGlues, not available back in the day. Normal contact adhesive doesn't work with vinyl to vinyl.</p>
<p>The intent was to fold the outer ear up to the piping ball with a near invisible joint. Glue will accomplish this, but if you want the original slightly bumpier look, then stitch.</p>
<p>The picture is of an original seat ear with the Hidem strip removed (hence the tack holes). Note the little cut along the bottom which is the transition between the folded over edge to the main cover sitting behind the lower piping bead.</p>
<p>Best regards,</p>
<p>Peter<span style="font-family:monospace; font-size:10pt"></span></p>
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