<div dir="ltr">Hi Bob - thanks - I just used regular DOT3 - nothing fancy</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Tue, Jul 6, 2021 at 8:45 AM Bob Haskell <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Neil,<br>
<br>
I'd start with the wheel cylinder as that's what was replaced. What are <br>
you using for brake fluid? Some master cylinders that I've bought from <br>
Moss aren't compatible with DOT 5 - voids the warranty. Don't know if <br>
that applies to their wheel cylinders or not.<br>
<br>
If you change the rubber hose, you ought to make sure the metal line is <br>
clear too.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar<br>
<br>
On 7/6/21 11:34 AM, Healey wrote:<br>
> Hi Bob,<br>
><br>
> No, I didn't pull the new wheel cylinder apart before install (never <br>
> heard of that one before). The bleeding went fine, and the piston <br>
> obviously moves out ok - it's just the lack of retracting that is the <br>
> problem.<br>
> So to confirm, noone thinks it's the hose (b/c the passenger side <br>
> works fine), correct?<br>
><br>
> Thanks in advance<br>
><br>
> On Monday, July 5, 2021, Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a> <br>
> <mailto:<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>> wrote:<br>
><br>
> Did you disassemble and lubricate the seals on the cyls before<br>
> install? I just replaced several on my BN2, and forgot to, but<br>
> when I checked they seemed to have some fluid in them, so may not<br>
> be an issue. I'd pull the recalcitrant cylinder and see if there's<br>
> anything wrong, the retract springs are pretty strong so the<br>
> cylinder would have to really be stuck. FWIW, I've installed<br>
> several of the 'cheapies' and not had an issue, and Tom Monaco<br>
> told me they're fine.<br>
><br>
><br>
> On 7/5/2021 3:37 PM, Healey wrote:<br>
><br>
> I had to replace a leaking, original wheel cylinder (drivers<br>
> side) earlier. Everything went fine with the install &<br>
> adjustment, except that on its inaugural run, it became<br>
> quickly apparent that things were not right.<br>
> Took the drum back off again, only to find that the<br>
> cylinder was not retracting properly.<br>
> Group wisdom from the internet says you need to replace the<br>
> rubber pipe.No problem - except there is only 1 of these<br>
> rubber brake pipes that goes into a T to feed both rear brakes<br>
> - and the problem is ONLY with the driver's brake - the<br>
> passenger side rear wheel cylinder retracts like a champ.<br>
> Driver's side spring is ok btw.<br>
> So what I don't understand is - if the inside of the rubber<br>
> pipe was swollen, not letting fluid back through, wouldn't<br>
> this affect both rear brakes, not just one of them?<br>
><br>
> Should I replace this one hose, or did I get a "bad" wheel<br>
> cylinder from Moss? (yes, I ordered the cheaper aftermarket<br>
> cylinder @ $14 as opposed to the TRW brand cylinder @ $70), or<br>
> do I replace both? or?<br>
><br>
> Lastly, what is the min thickness of the rear shoes? Both<br>
> are evenly worn & about the same thickness as the metal<br>
> mounting plate underneath.<br>
><br>
> Thanks in advance,<br>
><br>
> Neil<br>
><br>
><br>
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</blockquote></div>