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A volt meter will read the condition of the battery and as such any changes will be small and gradual, unlike and amp meter which tracks the balance of the output of the charging system against the drain on the battery which can be quite a bit more extreme..
I assume you have switched to an alternator and thus to a battery condition (volt) meter. </div>
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Bill Lawrence</div>
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BN11 #554</div>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of R. Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, June 14, 2021 11:10 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> gradea1@charter.net <gradea1@charter.net><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Healey List <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue</font>
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<div dir="auto">Thank you Hank! Your advice is right on. I found a black wire, disconnected and hiding behind the tach. Connected the black wire, replaced the two burned wires and everything now works. The volt meter still but maybe it’s fried. Is there a
way to test it?
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<div>Thanks again!!<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Price Lindsay
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<div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div>
<div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div>
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<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On Jun 14, 2021, at 1:42 PM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Price- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring. The black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The red/white is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional black wire which is for the panel GROUND.
The panel switch is R/W & R (no black). The way it is currently wired creates a short to the battery-thus your smoke and burned wires.
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<div>Check your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE that you know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a knife break in the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider replacing those burned wires. Then check the
wiring of the voltmeter and assemble as Kees has described. Hank<br>
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From: "R. Lindsay via Healeys" <br>
To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"<br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue<br>
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Thanks Kees.
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<div>I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the right terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting putting the green and black wires together on a terminal?</div>
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<div>On the wiring diagram, there are “triangles” where the black wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appears the grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the panel switch and the two black are connected elsewhere.
When messing with the wires yesterday I produced a little “smoke” and found the insulation on red wire from the panel switch to the lighting switch, and the two red/white wires between the tach and panel switch were melted. </div>
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<div>It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the panel switch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down with the lights and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel switch is on but the lights are off). </div>
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<div>What do you think?<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Price Lindsay
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<div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div>
<div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div>
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<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>
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<blockquote>On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:<br>
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<p>Hi Price,<br>
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<p>If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will have all sorts of problems.<br>
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<p>The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance), however if you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high resistance) no current can pass to operate the rest of the system.<br>
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<p>You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter. The plus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or ignition terminal of the ignition switch. The negative side is connected to any suitable earth point.<br>
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<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br>
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