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--></style></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink="#954F72" style='word-wrap:break-word'><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal>The recommendations my father pasted down to me for older firearms was Gunslick and Hoppes.</p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><a href="https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/">https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/</a></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Harold<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div style='mso-element:para-border-div;border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal style='border:none;padding:0in'><b>From: </b><a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">Bob Spidell</a><br><b>Sent: </b>Tuesday, June 8, 2021 4:41 AM<br><b>To: </b><a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject: </b>Re: [Healeys] Rust Protection Fluids</p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Followup (it's 4:30am here and my brain isn't awake yet):<br><br>I was recommended a 'one spray does it all' product by a gun shop. I don't remember the product's name--it's at my shop--but, when searching for it I came across this:<br><br><a href="https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleaning/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-lubricants/"><span style='color:#0563C1'>https://mil-comm.com/gun-cleaning/the-problem-with-clp-type-gun-lubricants/</span></a><br><br>Since you're doing a restoration, it's probably better to use a protectant (only).<br><br>Bob<br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>On 6/8/2021 4:33 AM, Bob Spidell wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>I've used LPS3 on exposed metal on my BJ8 and the metal has stayed shiny (and I put a lot of miles on that car, some in rain):<br><br><a href="https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS"><span style='color:#0563C1'>https://www.amazon.com/LPS-Premier-Rust-Inhibitor-Aerosol/dp/B000SKWQQS</span></a><br><br>Its description says color is 'brown,' but it's a very light brown. I don't know of any product that is colorless and, to be effective, I think they all leave a thin, waxy film.<br><br>FWIW, I tried one of the 'best' (supposedly) 'bluing in a bottle' products, and it didn't hold up; hopefully, you can find something better. The original bluing process required harsh chemicals and, I think, the application of heat.<br><br>Bob<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>On 6/8/2021 4:24 AM, <a href="mailto:simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com"><span style='color:#0563C1'>simon.lachlan@alexarevel.plus.com</span></a> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote style='margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=MsoNormal>Hi,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Not specifically a Healey query but we all know about rust….<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>So, I’m restoring an old pistol. (We’ll get one thing straight first….I’m no Wyatt Earp. This thing is a nice old .177 air pistol. A Webley & Scott Mk1. My wife’s father’s. About a hundred years old. Still works well.)<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Thus far, I’ve disassembled, removed the old bluing and any rust. I’ll reblue it per instructions from the net and from the bottle of blue. No problems so far. Actually, the only issue is the difficulty in obtaining parts.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I’m advised by the bluing manufacturer’s blurb on the bottle to finish off the whole process by “Saturating metal in Barricade Rust Protection”. That stuff seems to be WD40 in all but name with the property that, perhaps, it leaves a more lasting film on the metal. But the manufacturer would tell one to do that, wouldn’t they? <o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Nanny has taken away most of our firearms in the UK, so a lot of this type of stuff comes in from overseas. Typically the US. Anyone know anything about this stuff or similar???? Years ago, when playing with Her Majesty’s firearms, we used to keep little bottles of Jenolite something or other, but that seems to be unavailable now. Only their Rust Converter.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>I’ll probably just reblue it and wrap it up in an oily rag for another 20 years. (Just so long as my grandson doesn’t find it).<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Thanks,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal>Simon<o:p></o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></blockquote><p class=MsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>_______________________________________________</pre><pre>Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a></pre><pre>Suggested annual donation $12.75</pre><pre><o:p> </o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a></pre><pre><o:p> </o:p></pre><pre><a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">Healeys@autox.team.net</a></pre><pre><a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a></pre><pre><o:p> </o:p></pre><pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net</a></pre><pre><o:p> </o:p></pre></blockquote><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>