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Getting the engine / Radiator to cool down is one issue,,,,,the vapor lock is normally in the float bowls </div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
boiling out...so get some airflow over them. Use </div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
an axial flow fan ( a nice 4" one is available from boat sources). Add another inlet from the grille.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Even warm air on a hot day will help.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
That did it for me.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of healeys-request@autox.team.net <healeys-request@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Friday, June 4, 2021 11:00 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 212</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div class="BodyFragment"><font size="2"><span style="font-size:11pt">
<div class="PlainText">Send Healeys mailing list submissions to<br>
healeys@autox.team.net<br>
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To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit<br>
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific<br>
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<br>
<br>
Today's Topics:<br>
<br>
1. air ducting kit (i erbs)<br>
2. Re: air ducting kit (rfbegani@gmail.com)<br>
3. Re: air ducting kit (Bob Spidell)<br>
4. Re: air ducting kit (Richard Collins)<br>
5. Re: air ducting kit (Michael Salter)<br>
6. Re: air ducting kit (rfbegani@gmail.com)<br>
7. Re: air ducting kit (Perry Small)<br>
8. Re: air ducting kit (David P)<br>
9. Re: air ducting kit (Michael Salter)<br>
10. Re: air ducting kit (Richard Collins)<br>
11. Later steering box in a BN1 (richard mayor)<br>
12. Re: Wind blocker material (richard mayor)<br>
13. Re: air ducting kit (fsufan1952@yahoo.com)<br>
14. Re: air ducting kit (Harold Manifold)<br>
15. Re: Later steering box in a BN1 (john harper)<br>
<br>
<br>
----------------------------------------------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 1<br>
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2021 13:07:53 -0700<br>
From: i erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CABXhz88Phq_HVr=Rz+BExfX2krD7UkOAiVbTYuSe==k=+4HNRQ@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an<br>
identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various<br>
reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking<br>
at the Cape International kits to accomplish the look. Plus anything that<br>
directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
Ira Erbs<br>
Milwaukie,OR<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB [image: MG]<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
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<br>
Message: 2<br>
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2021 17:11:13 -0400<br>
From: <rfbegani@gmail.com><br>
To: "'i erbs'" <eyera3000@gmail.com><br>
Cc: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID: <02a401d758bc$fc5bce90$f5136bb0$@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Hi Ira:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the introduction of the shovel from the
frame to the radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms. So I have
introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle produced by the mechanical
pump. I fact one of the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of th<br>
e radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys<br>
Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the Cape International kits to accomplish
the look. Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
<br>
So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
<br>
Milwaukie,OR<br>
<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB <<a href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg">http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg</a>>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 3<br>
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2021 20:32:17 -0700<br>
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID: <fa9d3dcd-7993-f448-9249-4584f11d2927@comcast.net><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on <br>
the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation <br>
in the pump and hose?<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
><br>
> Hi Ira:<br>
><br>
> I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the <br>
> BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front <br>
> of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the <br>
> radiator.? So the introduction of the shovel from the frame to the <br>
> radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on <br>
> the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water.? But it does <br>
> not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, <br>
> especially under low rpms.? So I have introduced an electric water <br>
> pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of <br>
> water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and <br>
> back to the radiator.? it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle <br>
> produced by the mechanical pump.? I fact one of the listeners <br>
> commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump <br>
> operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing <br>
> hoses cut in half going from the bottom of the radiator up to the <br>
> inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8^th diameter holes in the thermostat <br>
> to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
><br>
> After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the <br>
> engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water.? <br>
> And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
><br>
> Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow <br>
> containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21^st century <br>
> technology verses our 20^th century.? They even have AC power steering <br>
> etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
><br>
> Best regards,<br>
><br>
> Bob Begani<br>
><br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *i erbs <br>
> via Healeys<br>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
><br>
> I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become <br>
> an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had <br>
> various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have <br>
> been looking at the Cape International kits to accomplish the look. <br>
> Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
><br>
> So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a> <br>
> <<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a>><br>
><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a>
<br>
> <<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a>><br>
><br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
><br>
> Milwaukie,OR<br>
><br>
> ? ? ? _______ ? ? ? ?_______<br>
> ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
> (_________________________)<br>
><br>
> ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
><br>
> 1967 MGB MG<br>
><br>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
><br>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
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><br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 4<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 04:02:14 +0000<br>
From: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><br>
Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<BN7PR08MB427605EB28336C0BB1217CC3BF3B9@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me every
time. So I push back, lift the lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
Richard C<br>
BN7 440<br>
<br>
On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in the pump and hose?<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
Hi Ira:<br>
<br>
I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the introduction of the shovel from the
frame to the radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms. So I have
introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle produced by the mechanical
pump. I fact one of the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of th<br>
e radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
<br>
After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
<br>
Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys<br>
Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><mailto:healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
<br>
I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the Cape International kits to accomplish
the look. Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
Ira Erbs<br>
Milwaukie,OR<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB [MG]<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
<br>
Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 5<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 07:34:46 -0400<br>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LJPsNXsXy9Dkm3tsomQ=WRjALtDVuooUTX6-dOisf8pLA@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float chambers<br>
when the vapor occurs.<br>
I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way again.<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <<br>
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
> My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather<br>
> as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I<br>
> stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the<br>
> gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me every time. So I push back, lift the<br>
> lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually<br>
> attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
> A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
> Richard C<br>
> BN7 440<br>
><br>
> On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
><br>
> ? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on<br>
> the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in<br>
> the pump and hose?<br>
><br>
> bs<br>
><br>
><br>
> On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
><br>
> Hi Ira:<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the<br>
> BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of<br>
> the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So<br>
> the introduction of the shovel from the frame to the radiator produces a<br>
> hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone<br>
> should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very<br>
> fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms.<br>
> So I have introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get<br>
> hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the<br>
> engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter<br>
> per minute to the trickle produced by the mechanical pump. I fact one of<br>
> the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the<br>
> water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using<br>
> existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of the radiator up to the<br>
> inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to<br>
> allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the<br>
> engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I<br>
> have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow<br>
> containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century<br>
> technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering<br>
> etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Best regards,<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Bob Begani<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net><br>
> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *i erbs via Healeys<br>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an<br>
> identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various<br>
> reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking<br>
> at the Cape International kits to accomplish the look. Plus anything that<br>
> directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
><br>
> So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
><br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
><br>
> Milwaukie,OR<br>
><br>
> _______ _______<br>
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
> (_________________________)<br>
><br>
> BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> 1967 MGB [image: MG]<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
><br>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
><br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
<a href="http://autox.team.net/archive">http://autox.team.net/archive</a><br>
> Healeys@autox.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys<br>
><br>
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><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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><br>
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><br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 6<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 08:06:35 -0400<br>
From: <rfbegani@gmail.com><br>
To: "'Michael Salter'" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, "'Richard Collins'"<br>
<gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
Cc: "Austin Healey list" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID: <049e01d7593a$11167a60$33436f20$@gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Besides all the equipment added to the engine radiator water system to keep my Healey from over heating, the addition of a gear reduction starter solved all the vapor lock issues starting my 67 BJ8. It starts the car even when the engine is hot after a long
run. Greatest thing since sliced bread, if you want your wife to travel with you as generally, they do not like helping you push the car away from the gas pumps and standing around waiting for the car to start. But, if you have a wife who likes to push your
Healey, she is a keeper.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter via Healeys<br>
Sent: Friday, June 4, 2021 7:35 AM<br>
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float chambers when the vapor occurs.
<br>
<br>
I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way again.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me every
time. So I push back, lift the lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO. <br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Regards, <br>
<br>
Richard C<br>
<br>
BN7 440<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">mailto:bspidell@comcast.net</a>> > wrote:<br>
<br>
? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in the pump and hose?<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
<br>
Hi Ira:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the introduction of the shovel from the
frame to the radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms. So I have
introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle produced by the mechanical
pump. I fact one of the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of th<br>
e radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys<br>
Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
To: Ahealey help <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>> <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the Cape International kits to accomplish
the look. Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
<br>
So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<br>
Ira Erbs<br>
<br>
Milwaukie,OR<br>
<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB <<a href="http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg">http://www.britishcarspecialists.com/assets/images/MG_emblem.jpg</a>>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 7<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 09:11:41 -0400<br>
From: Perry Small <healeyguy@aol.com><br>
To: rfbegani@gmail.com<br>
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, Richard Collins<br>
<gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com>, Austin Healey list<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID: <5BB389E2-C858-4FC4-87F7-D25EB95E02FE@aol.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
What is the connection between vapor lock (a fuel delivery problem) and a gear reduction starter (consistent rotation of the crank) ?
<br>
<br>
Also the key to cooling an engine via a radiator ( heat exchanger) is air flow. It seems correct that moving the water too quickly through the exchanger will limit the loss of heat from the coolant but air flow is very important. The stock AH fans do not move
many CFMs. Thus the reason the cars seem to do well, temp wise, at speed but very poorly idling along in a holiday parade!
<br>
P<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
> On Jun 4, 2021, at 8:07 AM, rfbegani@gmail.com wrote:<br>
> <br>
> ?<br>
> Besides all the equipment added to the engine radiator water system to keep my Healey from over heating, the addition of a gear reduction starter solved all the vapor lock issues starting my 67 BJ8. It starts the car even when the engine is hot after a long
run. Greatest thing since sliced bread, if you want your wife to travel with you as generally, they do not like helping you push the car away from the gas pumps and standing around waiting for the car to start. But, if you have a wife who likes to push your
Healey, she is a keeper.<br>
> <br>
> Bob Begani<br>
> <br>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter via Healeys<br>
> Sent: Friday, June 4, 2021 7:35 AM<br>
> To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
> Cc: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
> <br>
> Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float chambers when the vapor occurs.
<br>
> I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way again.<br>
> <br>
> M<br>
> <br>
> On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
> My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me
every time. So I push back, lift the lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
> A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
> <br>
> Regards,<br>
> Richard C<br>
> BN7 440<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> ? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in the pump and hose?<br>
> <br>
> bs<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
> Hi Ira:<br>
> <br>
> I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the introduction of the shovel from
the frame to the radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms. So
I have introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle produced by the
mechanical pump. I fact one of the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of
<br>
the radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
> <br>
> After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
> <br>
> Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
> <br>
> Best regards,<br>
> <br>
> Bob Begani<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys<br>
> Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
> <br>
> I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the Cape International kits to accomplish
the look. Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
> So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
> Milwaukie,OR<br>
> _______ _______<br>
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
> (_________________________)<br>
> BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> 1967 MGB <br>
> <br>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
> <br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
> <br>
> Archive: <a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>
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> <br>
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> <br>
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<br>
Message: 8<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 07:21:12 -0600<br>
From: David P <frogeye@porterscustom.com><br>
To: healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID: <f2296869-f565-e2f3-070f-35295fbe4ea8@porterscustom.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"<br>
<br>
early Datsun 240Z engines has a small blower and ducting which blew air <br>
on the SU like carbs..<br>
<br>
On 6/4/2021 7:11 AM, Perry Small via Healeys wrote:<br>
> What is the connection between vapor lock (a fuel delivery problem) <br>
> and a gear reduction starter (consistent rotation of the crank) ?<br>
><br>
> Also the key to cooling an engine via a radiator ( heat exchanger) is <br>
> air flow. It seems correct that moving the water too quickly through <br>
> the exchanger will limit the loss of heat from the coolant but air <br>
> flow is very important. The stock AH fans do not move many CFMs. Thus <br>
> the reason the cars seem to do well, temp wise, at speed but very <br>
> poorly idling along in a holiday parade!<br>
> P<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
><br>
>> On Jun 4, 2021, at 8:07 AM, rfbegani@gmail.com wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> ?<br>
>><br>
>> Besides all the equipment added to the engine radiator water system <br>
>> to keep my Healey from over heating, the addition of a gear reduction <br>
>> starter solved all the vapor lock issues starting my 67 BJ8. It <br>
>> starts the car even when the engine is hot after a long run. Greatest <br>
>> thing since sliced bread, if you want your wife to travel with you as <br>
>> generally, they do not like helping you push the car away from the <br>
>> gas pumps and standing around waiting for the car to start.? But, if <br>
>> you have a wife who likes to push your Healey, she is a keeper.<br>
>><br>
>> Bob Begani<br>
>><br>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of <br>
>> *Michael Salter via Healeys<br>
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 4, 2021 7:35 AM<br>
>> *To:* Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
>> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
>><br>
>> Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float <br>
>> chambers when the vapor occurs.<br>
>><br>
>> I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way <br>
>> again.<br>
>><br>
>> M<br>
>><br>
>> On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <br>
>> <healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>>> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot<br>
>> weather as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the<br>
>> other day when I stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning<br>
>> off the engine caused the gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me<br>
>> every time. So I push back, lift the lid and air the engine for<br>
>> 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually attracts an<br>
>> audience which helps pass the time. ? :-)<br>
>> A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
>><br>
>> Regards,<br>
>><br>
>> Richard C<br>
>><br>
>> BN7 440<br>
>><br>
>><br>
>><br>
>> On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net<br>
>> <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">mailto:bspidell@comcast.net</a>>> wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> ? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a<br>
>> smaller pulley on the water pump for more flow? Would that<br>
>> just make turbulence/cavitation in the pump and hose?<br>
>><br>
>> bs<br>
>><br>
>> On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
>><br>
>> Hi Ira:<br>
>><br>
>> I am not familiar with the direction of air around the<br>
>> radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors<br>
>> built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not<br>
>> for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the<br>
>> introduction of the shovel from the frame to the radiator<br>
>> produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator<br>
>> on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool<br>
>> water.? But it does not move the water very fast through<br>
>> the engine back to the radiator, especially under low<br>
>> rpms.? So I have introduced an electric water pump<br>
>> (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the<br>
>> flow of water through the radiator to the engine through<br>
>> the water pump and back to the radiator.? it adds 150<br>
>> liter per minute to the trickle produced by the<br>
>> mechanical pump.? I fact one of the listeners commented<br>
>> that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water<br>
>> pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install<br>
>> using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of<br>
>> the radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x<br>
>> 1/8^th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the<br>
>> water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
>><br>
>> After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few<br>
>> min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce<br>
>> flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator<br>
>> overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
>><br>
>> Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans,<br>
>> overflow containers, and some have an electric water<br>
>> pump.? 21^st century technology verses our 20^th<br>
>> century.? They even have AC power steering etc. systems<br>
>> as standard equipment.<br>
>><br>
>> Best regards,<br>
>><br>
>> Bob Begani<br>
>><br>
>> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net><br>
>> <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> *On Behalf Of *i<br>
>> erbs via Healeys<br>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
>> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
>> *Subject:* [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
>><br>
>> I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it<br>
>> has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a<br>
>> grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it.<br>
>> I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the<br>
>> Cape International kits to accomplish the look. Plus<br>
>> anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is<br>
>> good .<br>
>><br>
>> So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
>><br>
>> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
>> <<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a>><br>
>><br>
>> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
>> <<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a>><br>
>><br>
>> Ira Erbs<br>
>><br>
>> Milwaukie,OR<br>
>><br>
>> ? ? _______ ? ?_______<br>
>> ? ?? (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
>> (_________________________)<br>
>><br>
>> ? ? ? ? ? BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
>><br>
>> 1967 MGB MG<br>
>><br>
>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments.<br>
>> Mario Andretti<br>
>><br>
>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
>><br>
>> _______________________________________________<br>
>><br>
>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html <<a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>><br>
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>> Archive:http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys <<a href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a>>
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>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net <<a href="mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net">mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
>><br>
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>> <<a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com</a>><br>
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>> <<a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>><br>
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>><br>
>> Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
>> <a href="http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a><br>
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<br>
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------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 9<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 09:29:19 -0400<br>
From: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
To: Perry Small <healeyguy@aol.com><br>
Cc: Robert Begani <rfbegani@gmail.com>, Richard Collins<br>
<gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com>, Austin Healey list<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAB3i7LJPeTMrhwWarwRbiR_8oLk10_b+G582sYOH6H2N2aTpuw@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Although it probably won't make much difference to "heatsoak" situations<br>
one thing that was mentioned during our local club Zoom meeting was the<br>
idea of adding a 3rd blade to a standard 6 cyl fan, something I'd never<br>
heard of.<br>
This sounds like a very good idea and at least a couple of our members have<br>
done this with outstanding results.<br>
Slightly longer screws are recommended for securing the 3 blades to the<br>
waterpump pulley.<br>
<a href="http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=303033053279&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229529&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111">http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/706-53473-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575378759&campid=5338273189&customid=&icep_item=303033053279&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229529&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg&toolid=11111</a><br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 9:11 a.m. Perry Small, <healeyguy@aol.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
> What is the connection between vapor lock (a fuel delivery problem) and a<br>
> gear reduction starter (consistent rotation of the crank) ?<br>
><br>
> Also the key to cooling an engine via a radiator ( heat exchanger) is air<br>
> flow. It seems correct that moving the water too quickly through the<br>
> exchanger will limit the loss of heat from the coolant but air flow is very<br>
> important. The stock AH fans do not move many CFMs. Thus the reason the<br>
> cars seem to do well, temp wise, at speed but very poorly idling along in a<br>
> holiday parade!<br>
> P<br>
><br>
> Sent from my iPhone<br>
><br>
> On Jun 4, 2021, at 8:07 AM, rfbegani@gmail.com wrote:<br>
><br>
> ?<br>
><br>
> Besides all the equipment added to the engine radiator water system to<br>
> keep my Healey from over heating, the addition of a gear reduction starter<br>
> solved all the vapor lock issues starting my 67 BJ8. It starts the car even<br>
> when the engine is hot after a long run. Greatest thing since sliced bread,<br>
> if you want your wife to travel with you as generally, they do not like<br>
> helping you push the car away from the gas pumps and standing around<br>
> waiting for the car to start. But, if you have a wife who likes to push<br>
> your Healey, she is a keeper.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Bob Begani<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *Michael<br>
> Salter via Healeys<br>
> *Sent:* Friday, June 4, 2021 7:35 AM<br>
> *To:* Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net<br>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float chambers<br>
> when the vapor occurs.<br>
><br>
> I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way<br>
> again.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> M<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <<br>
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
><br>
> My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather<br>
> as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I<br>
> stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the<br>
> gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me every time. So I push back, lift the<br>
> lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually<br>
> attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
> A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Regards,<br>
><br>
> Richard C<br>
><br>
> BN7 440<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
><br>
> ? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on<br>
> the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in<br>
> the pump and hose?<br>
><br>
> bs<br>
><br>
> On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
><br>
> Hi Ira:<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the<br>
> BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of<br>
> the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So<br>
> the introduction of the shovel from the frame to the radiator produces a<br>
> hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone<br>
> should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very<br>
> fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms.<br>
> So I have introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get<br>
> hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the<br>
> engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter<br>
> per minute to the trickle produced by the mechanical pump. I fact one of<br>
> the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the<br>
> water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using<br>
> existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of the radiator up to the<br>
> inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to<br>
> allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the<br>
> engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I<br>
> have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow<br>
> containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century<br>
> technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering<br>
> etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Best regards,<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Bob Begani<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net><br>
> <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *i erbs via Healeys<br>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
> *To:* Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net> <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an<br>
> identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various<br>
> reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking<br>
> at the Cape International kits to accomplish the look. Plus anything that<br>
> directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
><br>
> So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
><br>
> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
><br>
> Ira Erbs<br>
><br>
> Milwaukie,OR<br>
><br>
> _______ _______<br>
> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
> (_________________________)<br>
><br>
> BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> 1967 MGB [image: MG]<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
><br>
> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
><br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
><br>
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<br>
Message: 10<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 13:45:18 +0000<br>
From: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
To: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
Cc: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>, "healeys@autox.team.net"<br>
<healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<BN7PR08MB427678D641969CE2AA64426FBF3B9@BN7PR08MB4276.namprd08.prod.outlook.com><br>
<br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Well, cold water is a concept but not sure some likely splashing on hot headers is a good idea. Probably better to fuel up prior to a drive.<br>
My wife doesn?t care to drive in the Healey with me due to the backwash of the exhaust coming back in the cockpit on occasion. Plus she hates my driving style which I say is ?sporting?. ;-)<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
Richard C<br>
BN7 440<br>
<br>
On Jun 4, 2021, at 06:34, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
?<br>
Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float chambers when the vapor occurs.<br>
I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way again.<br>
<br>
M<br>
<br>
On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <healeys@autox.team.net<mailto:healeys@autox.team.net>> wrote:<br>
My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks me every
time. So I push back, lift the lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
<br>
Regards,<br>
Richard C<br>
BN7 440<br>
<br>
On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net<mailto:bspidell@comcast.net>> wrote:<br>
<br>
? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in the pump and hose?<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
Hi Ira:<br>
<br>
I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the introduction of the shovel from the
frame to the radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms. So I have
introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle produced by the mechanical
pump. I fact one of the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom of th<br>
e radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
<br>
After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
<br>
Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
<br>
Best regards,<br>
<br>
Bob Begani<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net><mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys<br>
Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><mailto:healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
<br>
I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the Cape International kits to accomplish
the look. Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
<a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
Ira Erbs<br>
Milwaukie,OR<br>
_______ _______<br>
(______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
(_________________________)<br>
BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
<br>
<br>
1967 MGB [MG]<br>
<br>
A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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<br>
Message: 11<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 06:49:49 -0700<br>
From: richard mayor <boyracer466@gmail.com><br>
To: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: [Healeys] Later steering box in a BN1<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAKkXjqNBKg8obq4uPnO4tjtgQq1aGeOuW3NsAQ2c+rxHDeX6Jg@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Is this an easy swap? Anyone have details?<br>
<br>
Richard<br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 12<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 06:51:03 -0700<br>
From: richard mayor <boyracer466@gmail.com><br>
To: "J. Scott Morris" <jstmorris@yahoo.com><br>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Wind blocker material<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAKkXjqN_siAaqwxPf+vPKQaoiWmnEyVX0qWwcVyLZyvOTe36pg@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
They both use poly-carbonate (plexi-glass). I am looking for the type of<br>
mesh that luxury cars use.<br>
<br>
On Thu, Jun 3, 2021 at 2:18 PM J. Scott Morris <jstmorris@yahoo.com> wrote:<br>
<br>
> Hi Richard; Attached are 2 files with discussions and photos about 'Wind<br>
> Blockers' Hopefully they will help.<br>
><br>
> --Scott Morris; Simcoe, Ontario, Canada - Keep Smiling, Murphy Lives<br>
><br>
><br>
> On Friday, May 28, 2021, 04:32:45 p.m. EDT, richard mayor via Healeys <<br>
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
><br>
><br>
> I have made a prototype wind blocker for my 3000 using some left over<br>
> plexiglass. But I need a suitable mesh fabric to really make it look<br>
> better. I've had no luck so far with my search. Any suggestions?<br>
><br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
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<br>
------------------------------<br>
<br>
Message: 13<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 11:16:24 -0400<br>
From: fsufan1952@yahoo.com<br>
To: Richard Collins <gonnagitcha90@hotmail.com><br>
Cc: Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>, Healeys@autox.team.net<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
Message-ID: <A084701B-D7EF-4B38-9FD9-19929C380BAA@yahoo.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
This is my latest attempt on solving my vapor lock problems. I?ve installed a beer can size blower fan ducted onto my carbs . I just finished wiring it to a switch under my dash . Now to test it out in the Florida sun . I?ll let you all know how it works out
?<br>
Don <br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
<br>
<br>
> On Jun 4, 2021, at 9:53 AM, Richard Collins via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> ? Well, cold water is a concept but not sure some likely splashing on hot headers is a good idea. Probably better to fuel up prior to a drive.<br>
> My wife doesn?t care to drive in the Healey with me due to the backwash of the exhaust coming back in the cockpit on occasion. Plus she hates my driving style which I say is ?sporting?. ;-)<br>
> <br>
> Regards,<br>
> Richard C<br>
> BN7 440<br>
> <br>
>>> On Jun 4, 2021, at 06:34, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:<br>
>>> <br>
>> ?<br>
>> Some time Richard try dribbling some cool water over the float chambers when the vapor occurs.
<br>
>> I'll be interested to hear how well that works to get you on your way again.<br>
>> <br>
>> M<br>
>> <br>
>>> On Fri., Jun. 4, 2021, 12:02 a.m. Richard Collins via Healeys, <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
>>> My vapor lock issue occurs for example at long stop lights in hot weather as expected to some extant, not while driving; but the other day when I stopped to refuel, the heatsink after turning off the engine caused the gauge to hit 200 which vapor locks
me every time. So I push back, lift the lid and air the engine for 10-15 minutes and then it fires up. That usually attracts an audience which helps pass the time. :-)<br>
>>> A pulley change on my car wouldn?t make a difference IMO.<br>
>>> <br>
>>> Regards,<br>
>>> Richard C<br>
>>> BN7 440<br>
>>> <br>
>>>> On Jun 3, 2021, at 22:32, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> ? Somewhat relevant, I hope: Has anyone tried putting a smaller pulley on the water pump for more flow? Would that just make turbulence/cavitation in the pump and hose?<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> bs<br>
>>>> <br>
>>>> <br>
>>>>> On 6/3/2021 2:11 PM, Bob Begani via Healeys wrote:<br>
>>>>> Hi Ira:<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> I am not familiar with the direction of air around the radiator in the BN4, however, the BJ8?s has deflectors built in to the frame in front of the radiator, but, not for the wind that drops down under the radiator. So the introduction of the shovel
from the frame to the radiator produces a hurricane velocity up and through the radiator on the BJ8. That alone should be sufficient to cool water. But it does not move the water very fast through the engine back to the radiator, especially under low rpms.
So I have introduced an electric water pump (Aussie idea, as it does get hot down under) to keep the flow of water through the radiator to the engine through the water pump and back to the radiator. it adds 150 liter per minute to the trickle produced by
the mechanical pump. I fact one of the listeners commented that he could turn off the fan and just keep the water pump operating on highway speeds. It was easy to install using existing hoses cut in half going from the bottom<br>
of the radiator up to the inlet on the engine, and 2 x 1/8th diameter holes in the thermostat to allow the water to flow during engine warm up.<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> After a run, I keep both the fan/EWP operating for a few min after the engine shut down which helps to reduce flashing of the hot water. And, I have a large radiator overflow container to absorb boil over.<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> Why do you think most cars and trucks have electric fans, overflow containers, and some have an electric water pump. 21st century technology verses our 20th century. They even have AC power steering etc. systems as standard equipment.<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> Best regards,<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> Bob Begani<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of i erbs via Healeys<br>
>>>>> Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2021 4:08 PM<br>
>>>>> To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
>>>>> Subject: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> I have not had my grille in my BN4 for a long time and it has become an identifying feature of my car. I have a grille, I just have had various reasons to not instal it. I like the Rally grill look and have been looking at the Cape International kits
to accomplish the look. Plus anything that directs more air through the Rad cores is good .<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> So has anyone done this or another kit?<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/">
https://cape-international.com/parts/radiator-air-ducting-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <a href="https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/">https://cape-international.com/parts/mesh-grille-kit-bn4-bj8/</a><br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> Ira Erbs<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> Milwaukie,OR<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> _______ _______<br>
>>>>> (______ \____1959 BN4____/ _______)<br>
>>>>> (_________________________)<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> BT7 engine and disk brakes<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> 1967 MGB <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> A racing car is an animal with a thousand adjustments. Mario Andretti<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> Please excuse random auto corrects and misspelled words<br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> <br>
>>>>> _______________________________________________<br>
>>>>> Support Team.Net <a href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75<br>
>>>>> <br>
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Message: 14<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 09:07:08 -0700<br>
From: Harold Manifold <manifold@telus.net><br>
To: Ken Fleming via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] air ducting kit<br>
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Message: 15<br>
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2021 17:56:02 +0100<br>
From: john harper <ah100tech@gmail.com><br>
To: richard mayor <boyracer466@gmail.com><br>
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Later steering box in a BN1<br>
Message-ID:<br>
<CAL28cLW1Cvhq-EsuAyFzodOtduH1vr=x-H37UEY6JVk8hHxs4A@mail.gmail.com><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Richard<br>
<br>
You will also have to change the idler, the steering arms, and maybe the<br>
track rod.<br>
<br>
Regards<br>
<br>
On Fri, 4 Jun 2021 at 14:55, richard mayor via Healeys <<br>
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:<br>
<br>
> Is this an easy swap? Anyone have details?<br>
><br>
> Richard<br>
> _______________________________________________<br>
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End of Healeys Digest, Vol 14, Issue 212<br>
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