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<p><font face="Tahoma">Good points, Bob. (Maybe "points" is not the
best word in this case.) I do keep a Battery Minder on the
battery whenever in the garage, and the voltage is well above
12v, plus it does crank well. As you mentioned, maybe this was
a whole lot of things that are now fixed. In any case, so far,
so good! My 10 mile run today was encouraging.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Mike</font><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/4/2021 7:47 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
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Of some use, maybe:<br>
<br>
I have an old Ford 851 tractor; early '50s vintage, 6V positive
ground. It has a new battery, and after a spell on the charger it
will start--grudgingly--then once, when I pulled the charger off
after starting it died. After another charge, it would start but
would die if I tried to lift the hydraulic buck rake, or tried to
drive it away. I checked charge voltage at the battery, and at a
fast idle it would only show 6V. I had the generator rebuilt, and
installed a new VR. Boom: good start, 6+ volts and plenty of juice
to both move and operate the buck rake.<br>
<br>
Conclusion: Coils provide a fixed ratio voltage increase, based on
input voltage. On this tractor, 6V--a charging generator should
provide almost 7V at a fast idle--was enough to start and idle,
but didn't provide enough spark under load. I'm usually skeptical
of coil failures, because they have no moving parts and nothing to
wear out, and my BJ8 with over 200K miles still has the original
coil as does my BN2 (AFAIK) but it's an easy and cheap enough
'fix' to attempt. It's also possible all the previous 'fixes,'
along with a new coil, put this engine 'over the top.'<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/4/2021 3:18 PM, Mike Sinclair
wrote:<br>
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<p><font face="Tahoma">A month ago, I wrote regarding my BJ8
which just suddenly quit. Hagerty brought it home.
Diagnosis:</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">It takes fuel, air, and spark to combust.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Lots of fuel</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Spark</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Pretty sure there is air.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Checked all the voltages, all per spec.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Changed condenser, no improvement.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Rotor and points are new.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Someone suggested the cutoff switch in
the boot might be bad. Checked the wire, and it wasn't even
connected. Disconnected this wire at the coil and using my
trusty ohmmeter, both ends went to ground. Aha!
Intermittent ground! Fired it up; a little reluctant but it
started up and seemed to run ok. Drove around the block a
few times, came home and patted myself on the back. Next
day took it out for a little longer run (2 miles) and it
began to whimper badly 1/2 mile from home. Nursed it home.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Thought about it (a lot) including the
fact that it has always been very hard to start when cold,
and even then runs poorly for a few seconds before it
catches. Decided that maybe even though there was spark,
maybe it wasn't strong enough. Bought a new coil.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">After installation, if fired up much
easier, and runs great. Have been taking it on increasingly
longer test runs and it seems fine. I hate to say it is
cured, but seems to be.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Thanks to all who replied with helpful
hints.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Mike</font><br>
</p>
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