<html><body>Ouh Oh, you might be on to something there. The early lines were AF thread, later Girling, which could explain the difficulty in fitting.(Taiwan might be metric) Don't use teflon tape, it melts with brake fluid. Use the red grease supplied with NOS kits or get some from Delco. Anti seize as you applied it is ok, but that will only assist in removing and could contaminate the fluid, even if carefully applied as you did. Use that on wheel splines.<div><br></div><div>You could be getting air at the threads of those new cylinders-hard to see, but if you get any fluid on your finger its a sure bet. There must be an opening to the atmosphere somewhere as all suggest.</div><div>Damn reproduction parts, and even though old and suspect, I like NOS Girling if you can find any. Hank<br><br><div class="reply-new-signature"></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net><br>To: gradea1@charter.net<br>Cc: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"<br>Sent: Sunday April 25 2021 10:23:36AM<br>Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem<br><br>
Hank,<br><br>
Good point. I'm on record being very 'anti-County,' having had
hugely disruptive failures with their water pumps. The two rears
are 'no-name' so possibly County, and the one front cyl I put
in is Moss 'Classic Gold,' so possibly County (IIRC, it said
'Taiwan' on the box). The other three fronts are, AFAIK, original
Girling with, yes, probably seal kits from Moss (we redid the
brakes during restoration, and IIRC my dad did most of the work*).
I'm loathing having to pull a front drum and re-pack, shim etc.
again but will do so if no other solution works (I've already
checked the rears for leaks). I did use a 'no-name' rear cyl on my
BJ8, but so far it's given me no issues (that I know of).<br><br>
*Side note: When I went to install one of the new rear cylinders
the fitting would not go in easily, even though I was extremely
careful not to cross-thread. Thinking I got a cyl with a bunged
thread I ordered another, and had the same problem! I finally
realized that when my dad rebuilt the brake system he used new
steel lines, but likely re-used the (steel) fittings (correct
fittings are available, but not common). On close inspection, the
threads of the fitting were rust-colored, and even when tested on
the bench did not want to screw in as easily as they should have.
Even a thin coat of rust presents high resistance to torquing so
I've taken to putting a VERY thin application of high-temp
anti-seize on the threads ONLY (I can hear the howls of 'heresy!'
and "you're gonna die!" already ;). I use less than a BB in
size of anti-seize and put it nowhere near the sealing surface, so
contamination of the fluid, seal failures, etc. is unlikely (I know
of some owners who use teflon tape, but I could see that
conceivably posing a problem). Not only should this prevent
rust-galling of steel-steel threads, it should make the fittings
much easier to remove, so rounding out the nut is less likely.
Seizing due to rust shouldn't be an issue with cupro-nickel lines
and brass fittings. As usual, the interwebs are in violent
disagreement on the subject (examples):<br><br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/">
</a><a href="https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/">https://www.camaros.net/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-fittings.462049/</a><br><br><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/">
</a><a href="https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/">https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/anti-seize-on-brake-line-fittings.174299/</a><br><br>
Bob<br><br><div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/25/2021 9:49 AM, <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated">gradea1@charter.net</a>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
Bob-one troublesome word you mentioned in relation to the wheel
cylinders is "new." These must be the County Brand...spelled China.
If you did get lucky, and they are good cylinders, what about the
other three for the front? Rebuilt with Moss kits? I have
seen the problem with the seals being incorrect for the bore.
For instance, on a Sprite master, one push of the pedal stuck the
seal in the rear of the casing and never again to function.
Replacement parts today are to be suspect in an obscure issue like
you are having. Sad Healey tales..Hank<br><br><p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "Bob Spidell"<br>
To: "WILLIAM B LAWRENCE", "Healeys"<br>
Cc:<br>
Sent: Saturday April 24 2021 6:45:43PM<br>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem<br><br>
(non) progress report:<br><br>
Thinking Bill probably had the explanation, I clamped off the RF
flex line--the wheel I'd replaced the cylinder on--per Michael's
suggestion and, Voila!, a nice hard pedal. Thinking also that I
hadn't expelled a bubble, like Bill also suggested, I increased the
pressure on my pressure bleeding rig and bled all wheels again.
Still, a nice hard pedal, so I fired up my BJ8 to get it out of the
garage so I could pressure wash the undercarriage of the BN2 and
take it (BJ8) for a warm-up spin. Halfway around the 'block,' about
5 miles from home it started running very rough so I pulled into a
covid-closed restaurant parking lot and popped the bonnet; coolant
all over the passenger side of the engine bay. It appears the
gasket under the brass shut-off valve for the heater hoses sprung a
leak, so a call to AAA was in order. After getting the BJ8
flat-bedded home I washed the 100's underside, put on the new
wheels and tires and hop in .. brake pedal goes to the floor! Since
I could get some brakes if I pumped the pedal a couple times I took
a chance on a short, abridged spin around a smaller block--the new
wheels and tires ride fantastic, and no 'scuttle shake'
detected--then parked it.<br><br>
Thanks for all the suggestions, folks. I meant to try the
'hold-the-pedal-to-the-floor-with-a-board' technique, but by EOD I
was so beat I forgot. I've had trouble bleeding brakes on the BJ8,
but the BN2 has generally cooperated until now. Damned if I can
explain why I can get a good hard pedal, which proceeds to go soft
from just sitting. Good thing I love these cars.<br><br>
Bob<br><br><div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/23/2021 9:06 PM, WILLIAM B
LAWRENCE wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote>
<div style="font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">
The problem with the double leading edge brakes on the 100s and
100-6s is that the bleeder screw is at a low point in the system so
it takes a little extra effort expel any entrained air. You
probably got a pretty good slug when you changed the wheel
cylinder. Probably keep bleeding that wheel and use various
techniques until you find the one that actually moves the air out
of the bleeder.</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">
<br></div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">
Bill Lawrence</div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;color:rgb(0,0,0);">
BN1 #554</div>
<hr style="width:98%;"><div dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt;" face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on behalf of Bob
Spidell via Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, April 24, 2021 3:04 AM<br><b>To:</b> Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] BN2 Brake Problem</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div class="BodyFragment">
<div class="PlainText"><font size="2"><span style="font-size:11pt;">Listers,<br><br>
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up
the<br>
wall. Here's what I've done:<br><br>
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the
2<br>
front wheels)<br>
- new master cylinder<br><br>
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure
bled<br>
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a
couple<br>
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a
period of<br>
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only
slight<br>
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only
be<br>
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it
and<br>
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of
Castrol's<br>
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum
bleeding and<br>
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods.
I'm<br>
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a
bit<br>
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor
after<br>
some time.<br><br>
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br><br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
_______________________________________________<br></span></font></div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br></blockquote>
<br></bspidell@comcast.net></div></body></html>