<div dir="auto">Bob, more diagnosis is required. Use vice grips to GENTLY clamp off all 3 flex hoses.<div dir="auto">If the pedal is not rock solid with the clamped off the problem is in the master cylinder. </div><div dir="auto">If it is have someone hold pressure on the pedal then release the clamps one at a time to identify the offending brake(s).</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri., Apr. 23, 2021, 11:12 p.m. Bob Spidell via Healeys, <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Listers,<br>
<br>
I have a problem with my BN2's brakes that is driving (heh) me up the <br>
wall. Here's what I've done:<br>
<br>
- new shoes and cylinders in both rear wheels<br>
- one new cylinder in one front wheel (there's a total of 4 in the 2 <br>
front wheels)<br>
- new master cylinder<br>
<br>
I hadn't touched the M/C, so after all the installs I just pressure bled <br>
as I usually do (this has worked well on my BJ8 for decades and a couple <br>
times for the BN2). At first, I got decent pedal then, after a period of <br>
time I lost it; the pedal would go to the floor with only slight <br>
pressure (probably from the return springs). Thinking it could only be <br>
the M/C, I sprung for a new TRW brand M/C but after installing it and <br>
bleeding I got the same results. I've put 2 full quarts of Castrol's <br>
finest 'synthetic' DoT4 through the system and tried vacuum bleeding and <br>
old-fashioned 'pump and hold' method; same result for all methods. I'm <br>
not losing fluid as far as I can tell, and the pedal will pump up a bit <br>
with a half-dozen or so strokes, but will go back to the floor after <br>
some time.<br>
<br>
Any and all ideas and suggestions accepted and welcomed.<br>
<br>
TIA,<br>
Bob<br>
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