<div dir="auto">Yes Bob I would agree and when the motor is cold it will pass more current as I understand it.<div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">M</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun., Mar. 14, 2021, 11:36 a.m. Bob Haskell, <<a href="mailto:rchaskell@earthlink.net">rchaskell@earthlink.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Mirek,<br>
<br>
I believe that stall current is the load developed when the motor is not <br>
able to rotate - the mechanism is locked up - wipers frozen to the <br>
windshield. I"m an oldish mechanical engineer, not electrical. So <br>
someone else may have a better answer.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Bob Haskell<br>
Austin Healey 3000 BN7/BT7 registrar<br>
<br>
On 3/14/21 10:31 AM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:<br>
><br>
> Happy Sunday!, I am making some decisions on bulbs (and the LED <br>
> equivalent) for some Lucas Spot lamps I am fitting to my BT7, and I am <br>
> concerned about the total draw if I have headlamps, spot lamps and <br>
> wipers on. I know it is getting close to the measly 22 amp max output <br>
> of the generator.<br>
><br>
> The manual has specs for the wiper motor: “normal running: 2.3 to 3.1 <br>
> amps”. Then is gives “Stall Current” for the motor hot as 8 amps and <br>
> for the cold motor 14 amps. My question is, what is “Stall Current”? <br>
> The draw is huge compared to the normal running draw. Also, by cold <br>
> motor, I assume they mean the wiper motor as I cannot see how the <br>
> engine temp would matter. However, although I get it that electric <br>
> motors generate some heat, I don’t think of them as “warming up”, or <br>
> running hot or cold, so the huge difference between “hot motor” and <br>
> “cold motor” stall current further confuses me.<br>
><br>
> Any help from the electric whizzes out there would be appreciated.<br>
><br>
> BTW – regarding bulbs for the Spots, I like the idea of using LEDs as <br>
> the current draw is so low and the light better, but I find that <br>
> bright piercing light inconsistent with the character of our cars (a <br>
> personal preference) and the price of them is almost 3 times a BPF 48 <br>
> W quartz halogen bulb. I also consider that I have been driving my <br>
> BT7 for 46 years without spot lamps and got along OK, so I question <br>
> the need to go to LEDs, other than the advantage of low current draw. <br>
> Any experiences from those of you who have spot lamps with <br>
> conventional bulbs and the older low output generator (i.e. BT/BN7 and <br>
> earlier), would be appreciated.<br>
><br>
> Cheers, Mirek<br>
><br>
><br>
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