<div dir="ltr">I am struggling with Michael's explanation. Everywhere I search, it claims hot water exits via the Top hose and re-enters as cold water via bottom hose. That would be why the thermostat is situated at the top of the engine on the outlet. No doubt someone will correct me if I am wrong.<div>John Rowe</div><div>Qld Australia</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Mon, Mar 8, 2021 at 12:03 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u></u>
<div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Michael,</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">My general model has a lot of assumptions and will
be directionally correct but not exact. I assumed hot water
from the engine goes into the top of the radiator and cooler water exists from
the bottom of the radiator. The base case was a flow rate of 1 US Gal/Min.
If there is a better average flow rate for the AH water pump let me know, I used
a SWAG to get the model to work. If all other factors stay the same and flow
rate is reduced to 0.8 GPM the temperature into the radiator increased by 3 deg
F and the temperature leaving the radiator deceases by 2.6 deg F. I was trying
to simulate the condition when the car slows down and the water pump flow is
reduced. If the flow rate is increased to 1.2 GPM the temperature into the
radiator decreases 2 deg F and the temperate out of the radiator increases 1.7
deg F. In the model I have the flow rate has the least affect of the four
factors.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">The lower the flow rate the greater the difference
between T(in) and T(out) but T(in) goes up as flow rate goes
down.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">I am the first to admit my model has many
assumptions.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Does this agree with actual results?</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Harold</font></span></div><br>
<div lang="en-us" dir="ltr" align="left">
<hr>
<font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter
[mailto:<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>] <br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, March 07, 2021 2:53
PM<br><b>To:</b> Harold Manifold<br><b>Cc:</b> Healey List<br><b>Subject:</b>
Re: [Healeys] Overheating<br></font><br></div>
<div></div>
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">Not wanting to nit-pick Harold but I
believe that this statement is incorrect and could result in considerable
confusion:</span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif"><i><font color="#0000ff" size="2">"If the
water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of radiator
will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the radiator."</font>
</i><br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">Coolant exits the engine from the water
pump and is pumped to the bottom of the radiator. <br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">With everything else being equal, a
decrease in the rate of flow of the coolant will result in the coolant staying
in the radiator longer thus allowing more time for the transfer of heat to air.
<br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">The result of the slower flow would be a
LOWER temperature at the outlet "top" the radiator assuming of course that the
radiator inlet temperature remains constant. <br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">Of course with slower flow the converse
will occur within the engine because, as there is more time for the heat of the
engine block to be transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be hotter as
it exits the block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet
"bottom".</span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">We 100 owners think about such things a
lot :-)<br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif"><br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial,sans-serif">M<br></span></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small;font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif"><br></div></div><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div class="gmail_attr" dir="ltr">On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold Manifold via
Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br></div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="padding-left:1ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex"><u></u>
<div dir="ltr">
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Like many
of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for a vaccine and
for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying my time doing a
complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to consider what upgrades
or modifications are recommended to overcome some of inherent Healey problems.
I come to realize maintaining a consistent temperature of the cooling water is
an issue. With little else to do while in lock down I looked into the factors
that affect cooling to see if it would point to any obvious upgrades. The
design of automobile cooling systems is very complicated but can be
distilled down to a few key factors. Identifying the factors that have the
greatest influence on the system will help to point to possible solutions or
remedies. I will suggest some of the factors may not be as obvious as
others.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">The job of
the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If the capacity of
the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is greater than the
engine heat generated in all situations then the system will reach a steady
state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH when ambient
temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For many Healey's the
situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle speeds. What are the
critical variables that affect the water temperature the thermostat
sees:</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">1. Engine
heat generated.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">2.
Radiator heat transfer coefficient.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">3. Air
temperature or more importantly the difference between air temperature and the
radiator cooling fin temperature.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">4. Water
flow rate.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">At slower
engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can surround the radiator
and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the influence of
each:</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">If the air
temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg F the water
temperature will increase approximately 2</font></span><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">0 deg F. All things being equal the water
temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per degree increase in air
temperature.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">If the
water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of radiator
will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">If the
water temperature was above the full open temperate of the thermostat
when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer controlling the
system and the water temperature will change when one of the critical
variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing thermostats, fans or
using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of this forum and suggest one
of the clues to solving the slow speed problem is look at what is happening at
60 MPH. If the water temperature is above the thermostat rating while driving
at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2 above are likely the issue. In other
words there is no reserve capacity in the cooling system and soon as air next
to the core gets hotter the water temperature increases.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the
marginal Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22 deg
F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to friction,
air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is too lean it
will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that maintains the
minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well tuned and jetted
carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and the mechanical and
vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
generated.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Lastly we
have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is based on the
design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type of fins, density
of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the radiator, etc. The
units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block or have reduced flow,
if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the radiator has cracks or
spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full the radiator will not
perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator shop boil out the
radiator and pressure test.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">It seems
some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while others do. One
possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is marginal at best and all
of the factors that could affect overheating must be in
harmony with little room for forgiveness.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">The
upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator core,
123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will tell if
these helped tame the cooling system.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">I hope
this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial">Harold</font></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div>
<div dir="ltr" align="left"><span><font color="#0000ff" size="2" face="Arial"></font></span> </div><br>
<div lang="en-us" dir="ltr" align="left">
<hr>
<font size="2" face="Tahoma"><b>From:</b> Healeys [mailto:<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Leonard
Berkowitz via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08
AM<br><b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys]
Overheating<br></font><br></div>
<div></div>
<div style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,0)">So
first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you are
still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
factory original radiator. Haven't had any problem with overheating
since. I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas
fan. Nothing worked. </div>
<div>
<div id="gmail-m_-2421757166431902946gmail-m_2507401075191523387appendonsend"></div>
<div style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,0)"><br></div>
<hr style="width:98%;display:inline-block">
<div id="gmail-m_-2421757166431902946gmail-m_2507401075191523387divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> on behalf of <a href="mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com" target="_blank">rfbegani@gmail.com</a> <<a href="mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com" target="_blank">rfbegani@gmail.com</a>><br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6,
2021 4:58 PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Michael Salter' <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>; 'Bob Spidell' <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>;
'Ahealey help' <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> [Healeys]
Overheating</font>
<div> </div></div>
<div lang="EN-US">
<div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">Bob &
Mike:</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">You both may have
seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the
group. As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if
my water gauge was giving accurate readings. The thermometer gun told me
that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor
attached to the block. At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show
120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a
30-degree high reading. In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will
send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">I began to test the
temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and
outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and
lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm.
The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce
observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the
rpms of the engine. The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have
owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20
over. </span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">At the radiator inlet
134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. </span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">The above
temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">These temperatures
indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the
engine only when the engine is at high rpms. At idle the pump does not
circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool. This is especially
true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30
– 40 mph and stop and go traffic. Maybe the real answer is to install an
electric pump for constant cooling water?</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">In the past week, I
have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch
radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck. Both
those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting
boiling over. In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the
water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185
degrees. Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.
Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus
degrees true when coming off highway speeds. </span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">In my review of
various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending
increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant
recovery tanks “if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new” and
therefore can hold the pressure. Unfortunately, I have not found any
maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap
so I can try such a pressurized system.</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">Another suggestion on
an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car
owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water
mixture.</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">I still have no idea
why a minority of our group has overheating problems. More
ideas?</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">Regards,</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">Bob Begani 67 BJ8
</span></p>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:14pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif"></span> </p>
<div style="border-width:1pt medium medium;border-style:solid none none;border-top-color:rgb(225,225,225);border-right-color:initial;border-bottom-color:initial;padding:3pt 0in 0in;border-left-color:initial">
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>> <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Michael Salter via Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20
PM<br><b>To:</b> Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br><b>Cc:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100
water pumps</p></div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"> </p>
<div>
<div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">Yes Bob, there is
something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being
"large" enough. </span><span style="font-size:12pt"></span></p></div>
<div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">My wifes Maxima is
around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a
couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often
unless you have the AC on.</span><span style="font-size:12pt"></span></p></div>
<div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">I'm suspicious of the
rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he
indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't
make much difference when he tried it.</span><span style="font-size:12pt"></span></p></div>
<div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:12pt"></span> </p></div>
<div>
<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in"><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:Arial,sans-serif">M</span><span style="font-size:12pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS""></span></p></div>
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<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in">On
Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:</p></div>
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<p style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;margin:0in 0in 12pt 11.4pt">I
sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the
pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better
pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the
spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea
(Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the
improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved
cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too
long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:<br><br><a href="https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/" target="_blank">https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</a><br><br>Anyways,
after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've
wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very
small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small
for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core
won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what
I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't
have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task to
increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).<br><br>ps.
The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an
engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But,
the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not
terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same
problem.<br><br>Bob </p></div>
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