<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content="text/html; charset=us-ascii" http-equiv=Content-Type>
<STYLE style="DISPLAY: none" type=text/css>P {
MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px; MARGIN-TOP: 0px
}
</STYLE>
<META name=GENERATOR content="MSHTML 11.00.10570.1001"></HEAD>
<BODY dir=ltr>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months
waiting for a vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily
occupying my time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to
consider what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of
inherent Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent temperature
of the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while in lock down I
looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it would point to any
obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling systems is very complicated
but can be distilled down to a few key factors. Identifying the factors
that have the greatest influence on the system will help to point to possible
solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the factors may not be as obvious
as others.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat
generated. If the capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e.
BTU's or HP) is greater than the engine heat generated in all situations
then the system will reach a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat
road at 60 MPH when ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in
balance. For many Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and
vehicle speeds. What are the critical variables that affect the water
temperature the thermostat sees:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>1. Engine heat generated.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between
air temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>4. Water flow rate.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay
can surround the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate
the influence of each:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80
to 100 deg F the water temperature will increase approximately
2</FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff size=2
face=Arial>0 deg F. All things being equal the water temperature will increase
approximately 1 deg F per degree increase in air
temperature.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature
at the top of radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom
of the radiator.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of
the thermostat when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer
controlling the system and the water temperature will change when one of
the critical variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing
thermostats, fans or using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of this
forum and suggest one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem is look at
what is happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above the thermostat
rating while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2 above are likely the
issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in the cooling system and
soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water temperature
increases.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less
heat the marginal Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the
engine heat generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease
by 22 deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is too
lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that maintains
the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well tuned and
jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and the mechanical
and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
generated.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The
coefficient is based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of
tubes, type of fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to
construct the radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes
are block or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris,
if the radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is
not full the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a
radiator shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating
while others do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is
marginal at best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must
be in harmony with little room for
forgiveness.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new
stock radiator core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors.
Time will tell if these helped tame the cooling system.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant
gun.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial>Harold</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=ltr align=left><SPAN class=280235719-07032021><FONT color=#0000ff
size=2 face=Arial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV><BR>
<DIV lang=en-us class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr align=left>
<HR tabIndex=-1>
<FONT size=2 face=Tahoma><B>From:</B> Healeys
[mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] <B>On Behalf Of </B>Leonard Berkowitz
via Healeys<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM<BR><B>To:</B>
healeys@autox.team.net<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys]
Overheating<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">So
first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you are still
running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a factory
original radiator. Haven't had any problem with overheating since. I had
already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan. Nothing
worked. </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV id=appendonsend></DIV>
<DIV
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"><BR></DIV>
<HR tabIndex=-1 style="WIDTH: 98%; DISPLAY: inline-block">
<DIV id=divRplyFwdMsg dir=ltr><FONT style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt" color=#000000
face="Calibri, sans-serif"><B>From:</B> Healeys
<healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of rfbegani@gmail.com
<rfbegani@gmail.com><BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58
PM<BR><B>To:</B> 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter@gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell'
<bspidell@comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help'
<healeys@autox.team.net><BR><B>Subject:</B> [Healeys] Overheating</FONT>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV lang=EN-US style="WORD-WRAP: break-word">
<DIV class=x_WordSection1>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Bob &
Mike:</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>You both may have seen
my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the group. As a
result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to determine if my water gauge was
giving accurate readings. The thermometer gun told me that my water gauge
was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the sensor attached to the
block. At the same time, I noticed my gauge will show 120 degrees at rest
instead of going down to 90 degrees which would indicate a 30-degree high
reading. In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I will send the gauge to
Nisonger to be rebuilt.</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>I began to test the
temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet to and
outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper and lower
hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand rpm. The
chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce observations
or averages because the flow of the water is dependent upon the rpms of the
engine. The engine has overheated all of the 40 years I have owned it and
has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to 20 over. </SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>At the radiator inlet
134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>
inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. </SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>The above temperatures
are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>These temperatures
indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool the
engine only when the engine is at high rpms. At idle the pump does not
circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool. This is especially
true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come down to 30 –
40 mph and stop and go traffic. Maybe the real answer is to install an
electric pump for constant cooling water?</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>In the past week, I
have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 inch
radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long neck. Both
those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and resulting
boiling over. In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees the water
temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185 degrees.
Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant. Nevertheless, the engine
water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus degrees true when coming off
highway speeds. </SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>In my review of various
sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are recommending increasing
the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and coolant recovery
tanks “if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is new” and therefore can
hold the pressure. Unfortunately, I have not found any maker of a 1 inch
depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a
pressurized system.</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Another suggestion on
an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the Ontario car
owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 coolant water
mixture.</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>I still have no idea
why a minority of our group has overheating problems. More
ideas?</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Regards,</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Bob Begani 67 BJ8
</SPAN></P>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<DIV
style="BORDER-TOP: #e1e1e1 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; PADDING-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in">
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><B>From:</B>
Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <B>On Behalf Of </B>Michael
Salter via Healeys<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net><BR><B>Cc:</B>
healeys@autox.team.net<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] 100 water
pumps</P></DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"> </P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Yes Bob, there is
something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not being
"large" enough. </SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>My wifes Maxima is
around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly it has a
couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in very often
unless you have the AC on.</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>I'm suspicious of the
rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject and he
indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice didn't make
much difference when he tried it.</SPAN><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>M</SPAN><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans MS"'></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans MS"'></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"><SPAN
style='FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans MS"'>M</SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in"> </P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in">On Sat,
Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <<A
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</A>> wrote:</P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="BORDER-TOP: medium none; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in; PADDING-LEFT: 6pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 4.8pt; BORDER-LEFT: #cccccc 1pt solid; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in">
<DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 12pt 11.4pt">I
sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term loosely--a
cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The spacer had the
added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the pump and
radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after doing the
usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better pump (larger
vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the spacer he
used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea (Ford
basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the improved
spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved cooling,
though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too long at idle.
Link is to one of the improved pumps:<BR><BR><A
href="https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/"
target=_blank>https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</A><BR><BR>Anyways,
after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, I've
wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps have very
small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty small for
such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator core won't
help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, that's what I've
found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our engines don't have a
similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major task to increase
both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can dream).<BR><BR>ps. The
overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of an engine
in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow. But, the engine
bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine not terribly larger
in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.<BR><BR>Bob </P></DIV>
<P class=x_MsoNormal
style="FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri, sans-serif; MARGIN: 0in 0in 12pt"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>