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<div>Looking forward to hearing your results of using it, in the car. What is the original seal material made of? It's not metallic, and feels like plastic or really hard rubber. I was thinking using valve lapping paste could recondition the mating surfaces
that isn't too far gone?</div>
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<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."<br>
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<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 11:10 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller <stmiller96@hotmail.com><br>
<b>Cc:</b> healeys@autox.team.net <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
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<div dir="auto"><span style="font-family:sans-serif">No I left the seal out but left the holder to maintain the bearing spacing. </span>
<div dir="auto"><span style="font-family:sans-serif">On one of the others I deleted the holder and turned up a longer bearing spacer to compensate for the additional space.</span></div>
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<div dir="auto"><span style="font-family:sans-serif">M</span></div>
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<div dir="ltr" class="x_gmail_attr">On Sat., Mar. 6, 2021, 10:16 a.m. S and T Miller, <<a href="mailto:stmiller96@hotmail.com">stmiller96@hotmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>That is awesome. Is that a pool pump seal? Mine is the first one I ever pulled apart, but I assume the other inner seal is simply to contain the bearing grease. Since you are using sealed bearings, did you still use that seal?</div>
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<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."<br>
</div>
<hr style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id="x_m_-4944801310279495412divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000" style="font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Michael Salter <<a href="mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, March 6, 2021 8:57 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> S and T Miller <<a href="mailto:stmiller96@hotmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">stmiller96@hotmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">
healeys@autox.team.net</a> <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps</font>
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<div dir="auto">After a couple of premature failures of repro 100 water pumps I decided to look into rebuilding them with a modern seal and sealed bearings.
<div dir="auto">I have some concerns about the small size of the annulus through which all the coolant must pass in the original design so I have managed to install a considerably smaller seal as in the pics attached. </div>
<div dir="auto">After bench testing one of the prototypes is now fitted to my car awaiting a test drive as soon as the snow is gone.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">On Fri., Mar. 5, 2021, 11:13 p.m. S and T Miller via Healeys, <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" rel="noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>What's the skinny on the repo 100 water pumps? Hear they leak and need broken in dry. Uprated pump any good? Moss states the brass tap can be screwed into the uprated pump, but from the pictures it actually looks like the standard has threads and not the
uprated. Can anyone confirm? Rebuild original?Thoughts/ advice welcomed?</div>
<div>TY, Shawn</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The Millers<br>
<br>
"Always drive them, but remember each drive in an antique car is a test drive."<br>
</div>
</div>
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