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I always use it on thread inserts, but heat is the one thing that
releases it. Like Bill said, it's pretty hot there, but I see no
harm on giving it a go.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/28/2021 2:44 AM, Alan Seigrist
wrote:<br>
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<div dir="ltr">Bill -
<div><br>
</div>
<div>One question - the hole goes from one end to the other on
the flange of the exhaust manifold, so do I set the coil with
some high strength threadlocker?</div>
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</div>
<div>Best,</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Alan</div>
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<br>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 28, 2021 at 1:21
PM WILLIAM B LAWRENCE via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
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0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<div>I doubt there is anything non-metallic that will stand
up to the heat that close to the exhaust valves. Sounds
like a job for a helicoil.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Bill Lawrence</div>
<div>BN1 #554</div>
<hr style="display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id="gmail-m_-256882127623756149divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font
style="font-size:11pt" face="Calibri, sans-serif"
color="#000000"><b>From:</b> Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Bob Spidell via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, February 28, 2021 5:06 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Exhaust header stud fix ?</font>
<div> </div>
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<div><font size="2"><span style="font-size:11pt">
<div>I used this stuff once to bolster the threads in
a bellhousing slave
<br>
cylinder mount:<br>
<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-442-28654-4-80ml-Thread-Stripped/dp/B000WSEUII/ref=asc_df_B000WSEUII/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62149806956&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312106049007&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6889728303295400308&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014019&hvtargid=pla-440732566291</a><br>
<br>
It held up for quite a few years, until I got a
chance to put inserts <br>
in; but, 300degF may not be enough for exhaust
proximity. It's an epoxy, <br>
like JB Weld, but it uses (your) bolt to form
threads, and a 'release <br>
agent' to keep the bolt/stud from being glued in. I
can't say for sure, <br>
but my gut feeling is an epoxy would gum up a tap.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
On 2/27/2021 8:25 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys
wrote:<br>
> All -<br>
><br>
> One of the three holes at the bottom of my
exhaust header is loose and <br>
> the stud doesn't seat properly (but it does
screw in).<br>
><br>
> I was thinking of putting some "thermosteel" or
JB "extreme heat" in <br>
> there then tapping it out.<br>
><br>
> The threads are still there and it just needs a
bit of fill to tighten <br>
> it up.<br>
><br>
> Has anyone ever done a similar repair? Will it
last?<br>
><br>
> Alan<br>
><br>
<br>
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