<div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_default" style=""><span style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Bob wrote: </span><font color="#0000ff">"I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic to rubber."</font></div><div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></div><div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle. </font></div><div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font></div><div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff"><br></font></div><div class="gmail_default" style=""><font color="#0000ff">Best--Michael Oritt</font></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which
originals are now reaching."<br>
<br>
I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty
harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br>
<br>
Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal
'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an
original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this
(it requires rivets)?<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly recent years I had
never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on
timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled
had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic sans ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27
PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net" target="_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">In
the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
said: "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the
inside of an engine."</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">About
a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the
oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.
This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no
plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was. After
thinking about it further I decided that it could only
have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner
and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
the tensioner was non-existent and the chain pretty
loose. I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy
job--and magically a chattering sound that had
been appearing at certain rpm's disappeared, no doubt a
harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="color:rgb(51,51,255)">Best--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at
12:17 PM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net" target="_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Most mechanics favor
modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one <br>
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue
smoke from the <br>
tailpipe.<br>
<br>
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of
an engine.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
> All -<br>
><br>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and
this seal came <br>
> off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
><br>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud
which no one <br>
> sells. I assume the best thing is to remove it and
chuck it, <br>
> correct? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not
really worried <br>
> but would prefer to not put it back on and have old
rubber parts <br>
> getting into the oil.<br>
><br>
> Am I correct to not put it back on? No one seems to
sell these.<br>
><br>
> Best,<br>
><br>
> Alan<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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