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This is rapidly getting better than : "what oil should I use in my
healey" I would ask in this picture where is the gap, at the bottom
or at the top.<br>
<br>
JAV<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/6/2021 2:24 PM, Bob Spidell wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:3D4C6E7C-5FB9-4CD3-913E-81FD3088F841@comcast.net">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">It’s a side load on the shock.<img
src="cid:part1.0AFEC06C.FEE8F200@htcnet.org" class=""></div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Bluehealey
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com"><bluehealey@gmail.com></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
Sorry Bob - you’re still not gettin’ it.
<div>The important bit is -</div>
<div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">the weight of the car is
carried on the spring and bottom wishbone.</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car.</div>
<div>Then - <br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">The wheel and stub axle is
bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top
trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the
bottom wishbone and spring.</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack
stand under the spline hub to support the car. Now unwind
the the top nut of the kingpin a few turns and observe the
increasing gap at the bottom the kingpin. If you undo the
nut all the way you will drop the car on the deck.</div>
<div><br>
<div dir="ltr">Alan - from my iPad</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob
Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"><bspidell@comcast.net></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
re: "<span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">The whole
front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust
washers."<br>
<br>
Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under
the rear springs and front trunnions and R&R'd
their shock absorbers several times (Armstrong shocks
are a PITA, but that's a different rant). Risky?
Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8
rode through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in
San Jose a few years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged
concrete surface is required (note messing with
massive springs under compression has risks as well).
My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front
shock rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up
by a QuickJack under the chassis).<br>
<br>
Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the
top trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a
gap might cause some binding--leading to even more
steering effort--and too large could result in the
shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating.<br>
<br>
</span><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">bluehealey@gmail.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com">
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Hi Fred.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">You are not
the first person that I have encountered with
this confusion. It is usually held by those that
are very familiar with pre-war cars and beam
axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle is
captured between fixed top & bottom ‘ears’
on the end of the beam. The weight of the car
bears down through the top ear onto the swivel
axle. All fairly obvious.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">In the case
of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the
weight of the car is carried on the spring and
bottom wishbone. The wheel and stub axle is
bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top
trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the
bottom wishbone and spring.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">The whole
front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze
thrust washers. Any reduction in friction here
pays dividends – especially in a 6-cylinder car
with even more weight over the wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Maybe others
can come up with a clearer explanation.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Cheers.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">AlanB<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"></span></p>
<div><image001.png></div>
<span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"> <o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Fred Wescoe <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true"><fredwescoe@gmail.com></a>
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 06 January 2021 15:14<br>
<b>To:</b> Bluehealey <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true"><bluehealey@gmail.com></a><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Team.net <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:lawrence.swift@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true"><lawrence.swift@gmail.com></a>;
Ahealey help <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Listers,<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have looked at these top
trunnion bearing kits over the years and
considered installing them. However, I simply
cannot get my head wrapped around
why replacing bearings at the top of the
kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and
improve steering. It seems to me that all the
weight of the car is pressed against the
bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems
replacing the top bearing would have no effect
on the steering effort. Can someone explain
in simple language why this kit would work?<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks, mystified,<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fred<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">66 BJ8<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49
AM Bluehealey <<a
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">bluehealey@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm">
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">These are the ones.<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a
href="https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx</a><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Well worth doing.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The other often
overlooked source of heavy steering is
the Steering Idler. It is rarely
lubricated, has no real reservoir for
oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I
suggest releasing the ball joints that
connect to the drop arm to check it
for stiffness. Complete removal of the
idler isn’t a difficult job and is the
best way to clean and lubricate.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The caster is
pretty good on these cars (the initial
design was good). Camber could go from
positive to negative to be more
compatible with radial tyres. Also
check and minimise toe-in. This has a
radical impact on steering feel when
wrong (in either direction).<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">If after all that
you still have problems, then go for
the caster changes you have in mind
and tell us about your findings. The
Team may learn something.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The only other
aspect that seems to vary from car to
car is bump steer. Some can be
horrible on fast bumpies and others
are on rails. I’ve never seen a
decent treatise on dealing with this
on our Big Healeys.<br>
Have fun.<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Alan - from my
iPad<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">On 6
Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net <<a
href="mailto:lawrence.swift@gmail.com" target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">lawrence.swift@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">When I rebuilt
the front end on my BT7, I had the
trust bearings at the top of the
kingpin replaced with bearings -
made a huge difference in the ease
of steering.<br>
<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">On Jan 5,
2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell
<<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">re: "The
other two are factory fixed and
too dangerous to play with or
maintain...even if Kilmartin
makes the parts"<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">How so?<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">On 1/4/2021
9:40 PM, <a
href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net"
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">gradea1@charter.net</a>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">I'm with
the philosophy "set the toe
and let 'er blow" The
1/16-1/8" toe-in is most
important for proper tire
wear. The other two are
factory fixed and too
dangerous to play with or
maintain...even if Kilmartin
makes the parts. Hank<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
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