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Point taken, Michael. That's why I bought an alignment kit, so I can
test the effects of changes. Several Healey owners run 0deg camber
with no issues, and I've seen a couple that appear to have neg.
camber (I won't go near that). All my changes can be reversed if I
don't like the results.<br>
<br>
If we shouldn't mess with a 70 year-old suspension design--designed
for radial tires--we probably shouldn't be running radials.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/6/2021 10:48 AM, Michael Salter
wrote:<br>
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cite="mid:CAB3i7LL6QkRmhdV5ruX0WVL3YY5aNSPgFb3CMiSxxZTG5oS_dw@mail.gmail.com">
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<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Re: <i>Still wondering how
adjusting camber, for instance--zero camber is recommended
(newer cars have slightly neg. camber)--for the radial tires
most of us run is a hazard (assuming it's done properly). <br>
</i></div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I would have completely agreed
with you Bob until I started doing some basic designing of
front suspension systems. <br>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Although changing the camber
may seem like a small thing you would be surprised at how much
a small adjustment in any of the suspension angles of
dimensions affects other things including "kingpin offset" and
"bump steer" each of which can have a profound effect on ride
and handling.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">As an example I have a
Mitsubishi 3000 GT VR4. This car has 4 wheel steering but I
don't think that is relevant. <br>
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<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">When I bought it fancy alloy
replacement wheels had been installed. These wheels moved the
front tyre contact patch outboard around 1.5 cm. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">The car was absolutely
horrendous to drive with profound torque steer upon the
application of full throttle (320 BHP), appalling "tram
tracking" and incredible tyre wear. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I had another 3000 GT come in
for service and as a test fitted the wheels off that car onto
mine. The transformation was absolutely unbelievable; both the
handling problems vanished completely. <br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">I almost managed to talk the
owner of the other 3000 into swapping his regular wheels for
my fancy alloys but just couldn't do it and came clean by
letting him drive my car with the alloy wheels back on.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">Small changes can have VERY
LARGE consequences.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:comic sans
ms,sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
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<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 11:22
AM Bob Spidell <<a href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"
target="_blank" moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
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<div> That's odd; the bearings should be immersed in grease
(although I've wondered how well greasing the top trunnion
works, as a lot gets squished out).<br>
<br>
I installed the Torrington bearings on my BJ8 years ago; I
thought steering effort was reduced a bit (but I think part
of it was confirmation bias). Agree that it would make more
sense to install them on the bottom, load-bearing, trunnion.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
ps. Still wondering how adjusting camber, for instance--zero
camber is recommended (newer cars have slightly neg.
camber)--for the radial tires most of us run is a hazard
(assuming it's done properly).<br>
<br>
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